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Stihl BR600 won’t run

zachhunter

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My BR 600 won’t run. I put some gas in that I was sure of being mixed gas. It ran for about 4 minutes then sputtered and died. I tore it apart and checked the cylinder, piston and rings and they are all perfect. It seems to have plenty of compression, it’s getting air, fuel and spark. I’ve even put a little gas directly into the cylinder and it won’t fire. Won’t even try to fire up. I’m stumped…
 

Stump Shot

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My BR 600 won’t run. I put some gas in that I was sure of being mixed gas. It ran for about 4 minutes then sputtered and died. I tore it apart and checked the cylinder, piston and rings and they are all perfect. It seems to have plenty of compression, it’s getting air, fuel and spark. I’ve even put a little gas directly into the cylinder and it won’t fire. Won’t even try to fire up. I’m stumped…

Sounds like it has everything except exhaust. Might be worth checking the muffler screen and see if it's plugged up before digging too deeply into it.
 

r7000

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i just worked on a BR600. had to reseal the crankcase cover it was leaking, but not bad enough to where it wouldn't run but just enough that it would have intermittent problems. if it has fuel & spark and compression but won't start then that leaves crankcase sealing. Even on the stihl 4mix if the case has a seal leak it will not force force air/fuel into the cylinder. I've used permatex motoseal on a few saws and other 2-cycle stuff for crankcase sealing and haven't had a problem. I think a common problem with the BR600 as i've seen on youtube is the factory red dirko sealant isn't either applied enough at build time or it lets go after time.

the two end crankshaft seals - were expensive to get via stihl so i reused mine with no problem. you can kinda tell if they're still good if they have a nice snug fit on the crank shaft and the rubber lip of them is still firm and pliable.

also would want to check the valve cover gasket. after these you'd be looking into intake/exhaust valve operation.

also check the flywheel is not loose, that it hasn't sheared its integrated key. I suppose if it did then when you pull the rope starter it might just spin the flywheel on the crank. but if the flywheel shifted then you would get spark just not at the correct time, and it would never run. that integrated flywheel key is soft aluminum in the flywheel and is very easy to shear - hold the flywheel by hand and try to undo the blower impeller nut, immediate flywheel shear.
 
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Steve

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I have had two br600s do the same thing you have going on and both had sheared flywheel keys. Clean the taper and crankshaft with brake clean, line the keyway up and tighten the flywheel down. Both still in service and that was two years ago.
 

backhoelover

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Check the plug and coil just cause you have spark doesnt me you have it under compression

Make sure your rocker didn’t jump off valve

Check valve movement make sure cam didn’t wear

Make sure it didn’t jump timing, this usually mean the the cam recesses on the valve cover and cylinder are wore out

Make sure you didn’t drop a valve guy (this is rare in br 4mix see it alot on the fs 4 mix from operators removing the trimmer guard

Make sure your valves and valves seats are not carbon up

Where the primer feed into the carb there is a check calve in there under the brass plug I’ve seen them cause a no start

Make sure valve isn’t tight, I replace the top lock nuts every season
 

Loony661

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Those machines were pretty sensitive to valve lash if I remember correctly. You can order the lash feeler gauge directly from your Stihl dealer - or grind one down to fit in between that little rocker arm.. I think lash is supposed to be .004”
 

r7000

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so did you figure it out, or cave and buy an li-ion blower?
 
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