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Stihl 026 in need of work.

Bigtee

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Hi just picked up a Stihl 026 it looks to have been last serviced 20 years ago !!
It’s a very dirty saw in need of a good service.
My compression test shows 145 psi how does that fare?
The saw runs yet the oiler doesn’t appear to be working chain removed no oil at the port?
Oil has some in will check filter inside I’m suspecting oil pump u/s ?
The chain spins at idle, removed the clutch the springs are still fitted.?

Going to order a service kit start there, any pointers please shout up not had this one or a large saw got the 181 got this to cut up logs for the fire.
Intention is to get running fine to use as required not a daily saw.
 

AlexStromberg

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Id order a new oiler and clutch springs. The springs are bad.
 

Shibby

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145 psi is good.

Check the oil worm gear and arm behind the clutch. Hose/pickup could also be plugged or not sealing to the pump.

Spinning chain at idle could be worn clutch springs or too high of idle.
 

Bigtee

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145 psi is good.

Check the oil worm gear and arm behind the clutch. Hose/pickup could also be plugged or not sealing to the pump.

Spinning chain at idle could be worn clutch springs or too high of idle.

Thank you for a reply.
The clutch is it a left hand thread ? Will try to lock it to remove I guess.
Il look at the idle it does seem fast.
The service kits off e bay have a good deal including a carburettor with it all may as well replace that.
 

ammoaddict

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Thank you for a reply.
The clutch is it a left hand thread ? Will try to lock it to remove I guess.
Il look at the idle it does seem fast.
The service kits off e bay have a good deal including a carburettor with it all may as well replace that.

Yes. Left handed thread. Take the plug out and put a piece of starter rope in it and rotate it until it contacts the top of the cylinder. Leave the other end of the rope hanging out so you can pull it back out
 

fearofpavement

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1. If you have a small impact, use that to remove the clutch. Don't use rope with an impact. It doesn't even matter if the spark plug is in or out, it will spin it right off. (make sure you're turning it clockwise to remove.
2. On the chain spinning thing, a fast idle will of course cause it, also a dirty clutch can as well. I've rarely encountered weak clutch springs causing this but if the holes in the clutch shoes are worn, it's possible. Probably your idle speed though.
3. If this is a regular 026 vs a pro model, the oil pump is not clutch driven. It runs all the time. Oiler pumps are rarely an issue on these saws so check the oil line and filter. May need to clean sawdust out of the oil tank. (flush it with diesel or similar)

Congrats on your score. This is one of my favorite chainsaw models...
 

Wonkydonkey

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If You could take a video, that could/would help diagnose if it has the high idle.

I’m wondering if lts running a bit lean (does it 4stroke @wot) and also a high idle and also the chain running issue.
Is your carb adjustable type on the high & low ? There were a few different carbs fitted over the time. Your oem carb is probably fine.

as said above the oil pump is driven from a worm gear and the metal arm that that located in the clutch drum can sometimes spin on the worm drive thus the oil don’t work.

Anyhow if you got a pro model you should have a screw underneath to adjust the oil output
You could grab this manual from the stihl workshop manual thread it’s the ms240\260 which is really the same saw
https://opeforum.com/attachments/ms-240-260-pdf.10235/
And just to help you along here’s the ipl which you see the different parts that were fitted/changed.
https://www.espacemotoculture.fr/img/cms/vue eclatee stihl/tronconneuse et decoupeuse a beton/STIHL_026.pdf

like others have said a 026 is a good saw and well worth giving it a bit of tlc, there’s quite a lot of guys on here have this saw.. I have 3 [1 x026 &2x260]

post/ask more questions if needed. Take pics and post it can help a lot.
 
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Bigtee

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I’ll do a video later at the moment it’s in bits. Lol
 

drf256

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It’s a 260 pro. Newer type tank vent also.

How does the piston look?

Usually no issue with the oilers in those. Pretty bulletproof. You should have a nylon worm gear and metal adjustable pump, unless you are mix and match. The oil hose is usually the point of a leak in them.

Yiur saw should only pump oil during use, and not at idle as well-like the original 026 and non-PRO models.
 

Bigtee

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Removed the clutch

some help required on the C clip is this the pump drive ? Does that centre looks like a seal come away from the pump or do I remove the pump?
Thanks all
 

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Bigtee

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Clutch how’s it look no broken springs
 

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Bigtee

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Update watched a video I believe the drive is ok the Circlip,stays attached to,the drive I have removed it see it’s left hand thread. It stays put.
So rebuilt all cleaned out the oil tank found sludge in tank and filter end blocked hope that’s the only fault so far. Cleaned out to replenish with new oil tomorrow and start up. See how it goes.
 

Wonkydonkey

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Removed the clutch

some help required on the C clip is this the pump drive ? Does that centre looks like a seal come away from the pump or do I remove the pump?
Thanks all

the big c clip that you removed is what drives the worm gear that in turn drives the oil pump.

the easiest way to get the worm drive out is to turn it backwards (ie opposite the way the chain is driven)
If the part you took off (big c clip) slips on the plastic worm gear then the oil pump will not work

i know it shows them as two separate parts in that ipl link I added before. But usually I don’t separate them, and not all oil pump drives are like this (separable)
 
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