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stihl 026 ideas?

jake wells

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Been thinking of what to do with my 026 and i think i have a basic idea but not sure how it will pan out.
- modded muffler.
- 194 carb.
- nylon mesh filter.
- .020 - .025 timing advance.
- base gasket delete.

Wanting to get the compression up and see if it can gain some torque no port work though im just wanting more compression guessing 170-190psi it currently has 155 lbs.
What is everybody's thought on what this saw would do? With these mods i know it isn't a screamer just something with more oomph. And finally here is a small saw with a big bar next to big wood.
20160904_152045.jpg
 

drf256

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If it's a very late ms260 style cylinder, you may be able to get away with a base gasket delete. In my experience, the later jugs give you about .017 squish base gasket delete. The earlier/026 style are only about .009 without gasket.

Roof flashing is .009-.010 and is easy to make a gasket with.

You need to buy a caliper, there's really no other accurate way to check squish unless you wanna try yellow plastigauge.

Buy a set of cabers and either run a single top ring or just replace the top ring.

An easy but loud muff mod on that saw is to cut the front opening up square, like 1.5 X 1.5" from the inside. Drill a new hole and move the screw to the PTO side. Slide some coarse screen under the heat shield outside and screw it on. A little paint and it's tough to know that you were there. If you can weld, an @Red97 deflector on the fly side works even better.

Your plan sounds good. Jim is correct about compression. You'll likely bump it to 170, which is totally fine. With my 026 mods, I'm now doing all I can to keep compression lower. My builds come in at 240-260 psi.
 
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Chainsaw Jim

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If it's a very late ms260 style cylinder, you may be able to get away with a base gasket delete. In my experience, the later jugs give you about .017 squish base gasket delete. The earlier/026 style are only about .009 without gasket.

Roof flashing is .009-.010 and is easy to make a gasket with.

You need to buy a caliper, there's really no other accurate way to check squish unless you wanna try yellow plastigauge.

Buy a set of cabers and either run a single top ring or just replace the top ring.

An easy but loud muff mod on that saw is to cut the front opening up square, like 1.5 X 1.5" from the inside. Drill a new hole and move the screw to the PTO side. Slide some coarse screen under the heat shield outside and screw it on. A little paint and it's tough to know that you were there. If you can weld, an @Red97 deflector on the fly side works even better.

Your plan sounds good. Jim is correct about compression. You'll likely bump it to 170, which is totally fine. With my 026 mods, I'm now doing all I can to keep compression lower. My builds come in at 240-260 psi.
With compression like that have you ever ran vp110 in one?
 

jake wells

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guys the only mod i plan to do on the cylinder is remove the base gasket i also found out this saw was sold around late 2001 according to stihl dealer locally so im not sure what stihl used cylinder wise in 2001.
 

dall

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when you have cylinder off you can take pics and it may tell you
 

Stihlbro

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image.png

Does your muffler look like this?


image.png

If it were me, take 10 minutes and add the extra holes like the above picture. The non adjustable carburetor may very well run fine as typically when you open up the muffler, you will need to richen up the low side and lean out the high side. This will tell you what potential is being held back. And the best part, no money is spent yet.
 
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