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Stihl 025 leaky seals

Carhartt

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Anyone ever try and replace crank seals on a 025 (clamshell) without splitting the crank? If so which seal part number are they ending in 1581 or 1585? Is it a low success?
 

lehman live edge slab

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The more expensive of the two are the metal drive in style and they work well just not cheap. I usually put a thin smear of crankcase sealer on the outside of the seal before putting them in.
 

Carhartt

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Not my saw or I'd split it. Guy wants it fixed on the cheap. I never just tried replacing without splitting and am aware of the possibility. I have another motor I cld put it it. Rest of the saw is in very good shape. Well maintained.
 

angelo c

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Not my saw or I'd split it. Guy wants it fixed on the cheap. I never just tried replacing without splitting and am aware of the possibility. I have another motor I cld put it it. Rest of the saw is in very good shape. Well maintained.

"Guy wants it fixed on the cheap..."
Sounds like he values HIS time more then yours... Clams take time. If he ain't willing to pay for your "TIME" then offer "Google" and "YouTube"
Sorry for the snarky response but splitting the saw is the right way, and the right way isn't usually the "on the cheap" way.
 

lehman live edge slab

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In my opinion the drive in seals work just fine they are expensive but work. I’ve had many clam shell 021,023,025’s apart along with the 029-039’s. Not a ton of value in a ms250 they are 299$ new up here so if it’s in good shape with good compression and just has leaky seals I’d have no issue using the drive in seals. Lots of people aren’t going to dump 150$ into a 299$ saw there is a reason Stihl sells the drive in style seals. And if your going to pull it down to crank and do it right might as well do bearings also with rings but then you might as well buy a new saw. I also trust the old oem bearings more than a new set of china ones. If I remember the drive ins are about 40$ a set and they change out just like doing a pro saw. Make sure it’s not the impulse line sucking air and it needs the seals for sure. I’ve used the drive ins more than once and the saws are still going after 2-3 years. Was the only way it was worth it to fix them to the owners.
 

Carhartt

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I tried posting a video of it blowing bubbles but it wont upload.
I should say the guy isnt cheap, he is just aware of the repair value/my time and the replacement value. I think I'll just swap my motor into his chassis. Has to be the quickest repair. It's kind of been handed down to his youngest son (16) and that kind of stuff catches me in a soft spot. Good saw for a kid to learn rights from wrongs.
 

Wood Doctor

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About three years ago I replaced the seals on a Stihl 025 without splitting the case. It worked. The saw is in service today and still runs fine. Here's the service manual:
 

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  • Stihl 021-023-025 Service Manual.pdf
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NPKenny

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It's kind of been handed down to his youngest son (16) and that kind of stuff catches me in a soft spot. Good saw for a kid to learn rights from wrongs.

You can probably look at this as a project where you can do a good turn... Fix it the right way and charge only parts.

Like what has been stated above, rarely are seals the only issue. Every used saw I pull down seems to need bearings, ring, impulse line, carb kit, fuel line and filter as well. Then you should really look at the condition of the bar and chain. Remarkably, many of these type of projects have a new spark plug.

The cost of this plus labor makes it really hard to justify re-building a clamshell at all, especially a Stihl clamshell with more expensive parts.
 

NPKenny

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Or you can make a parts order from HLSupply for a truly cost effective repair. This chassis is very well supported.
 
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