So what's the current two stroke oil favorite?

It may be something like that. I'm not certain on anything about it. I was at a auction and they had tons of it. I bought a pallet of it. Only piece of ope I owned was a ht75 pole saw. Only reason I bought it was because it was dirt cheap. I sold a bunch of it off and that's actually how I met my tree guy. He bought four cases and I tosses in a couple extra six packs that were loose as a freebie.

Looking back. I wish I would have kept more, but heck...... I had all the oil I needed for 7+ years after turning a profit..... I won't complain. Not often do I come out ahead on something like that. Normally I loose my azz.


Steven

 

I’ll ask my buddy about this oil and see how long ago it was made and if and or why they quit making it

 

What temperature do you think the crankcase is on a running saw ?

Reason I ask is because I don’t believe that any oil flashes off in the crankcase, just whatever’s left that hasn’t flashed off from the fuel.

I believe that oil migrates through the crankcase and is carried in very tiny droplets or liquid form into the cylinder through the transferrs

 

Amsoil dominater. That's all I will touch

 

I'm a 40:1 guy now too

 

Walmart Supertech 50:1

 

Who likes a dry muff?

 

Couldn't of said it any better Jeff!

 

Here’s what your saw will look like on Ultra…

 

No oil posts since July 30th, what up, did Biden sell all the oil,
and your all hard at work finding a replacent.

 

All we need here is a wiper incorporated between the port and muffler,
the muffler doesn't look bad at all, seems it all sits in the port, piston
top doesn't look bad compared to most I have seen.

Even so, definite improvements could be made, wonder what the rings
look like.

 

Sometimes its better to bring your own lube, at least you
know its not someone else's, or so they tell me.

 

Can somebody educate me on the photos is that a lot of carbon buildup

 

I like the way the Amsoil's logo looks so Saber is the best.

 

Yes, its quite a bit of carbon, too much, the less carbon the better, if its sticky
soft it won't do as much harm, but when its hard, it breaks off and
because its so hard, it scores / destroys the piston, scores the cylinder
and if it gets above the cylinder in a big enough chunk it will damage the top
of the piston and the roof of the cylinder.

Basically there is nothing good about it, if you see or suspect carbon
is built up, then take measures to clean it out of the engine before damage
is done.

The Sthil oil mentioned seems to leave a fair bit of carbon behind.
Then again, use too much oil and it will build up and harden around
the port.
I use 40:1, and run the saw rich, its not too much oil when your saw
is hot and going flat out it burns it well.

 

Thank you for the input that’s what I have done I went over to 40 to one too because when my stihl 460 was rebuilt there was no oil in the bottom and it was rust color.
For years are used stihl Orange bottles always a little heavy on oil

 

I know people who still use the orange bottle oil, never have any trouble, and they rest their saws for most of the year, stihl saws too, older models. I suppose the thing to keep in mind is, if you don't run enough fuel then your not allowing as much oil into the engine either, rich is what does it for me.

Echo PowerblendX and Husqvarna XP before that, but I only run up to 50cc saws,
so no need for a more viscous oil.

 

Is that not straight dino oil, as in not synthetic, dino oil usually copes with keeping down rust very well.

 

It’s something that I don’t understand. My 460s 20 years old or more 22 I think the be exact. I ran it myself most of my life not a heavy user. Again I scratch my head over and that’s all I used to use was stihl orange bottles