Husqvarna CCC Ebay Store

Small right angle (RA) porting handpieces for Foredom motors.

Discussion in 'Tools' started by srcarr52, Aug 5, 2021.

  1. BGE541

    BGE541 Super OPE Member

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    Price for a set up shipped? Thanks!
     
  2. srcarr52

    srcarr52 Professional over thinker. GoldMember

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    It’s in the first post.
     
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  3. srcarr52

    srcarr52 Professional over thinker. GoldMember

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    Anyone who has purchased one of these handpieces feel free to leave some feedback. Anyone have anything to say about the burr length, should I change them?
     
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  4. farminkarman

    farminkarman I like the red & black ones GoldMember

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    I really like mine so far. I have only ported three saws since getting it. I haven't found a need thus far to have a different burr length.
     
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  5. Crocky28

    Crocky28 Well-Known OPE Member GoldMember

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    I’m very impressed with mine. I’ve found the burr lengths spot on so far. I actually prefer it to my 90. I feel the contra angle is better to work with. Just a personal preference I suppose.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  6. buckin-wood

    buckin-wood OPE Member

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    So far so good here. I've touched up a cross 660 and working on a 7900 at the moment. Length seem good. A small ball burr might be handy. In full disclosure I'm new to playing with 2 stroke cylinders, I'm used to cavernous 4v 351c ports. I'm still ironing out technique and what works where.

    I did bind the burr in a 7900 upper and the contra head gears survived. Not sure how many times I can get away with that.

    Curious where you get that thick heat shrink you use on the handpiece.
     
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  7. srcarr52

    srcarr52 Professional over thinker. GoldMember

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    I'm glad you are having success. Yes, stuffing a burr usually tears up the head. Good news is that the heads are cheap. The heads I provide are some of the toughest I could find.

    I've never been a fan of using ball burrs on a port wall as they are hard to create a flat surface with, I've found the egg shape help to maintain a flat surface. I do like to use balls for tunneling, like around a valve guide or pushing the skinny port edge wall towards the exhaust under the transfer bridge. In short a ball is good for running up and down the port in a small area or in a corner, the egg shape is better for going from side to side of the port and then moving up/down the port for your next pass.

    The heat shrink is some generic 3:1 ratio, dual wall (adhesive lined), 3/4". I got it off ebay for around $1.20 a foot.
     
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  8. Ronie

    Ronie Here For The Long Haul!

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2022 at 9:46 AM
  9. srcarr52

    srcarr52 Professional over thinker. GoldMember

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    This is why I had custom burrs made that are 3/16" diameter. 1/4" burrs tear up the heads faster.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2022 at 10:00 AM
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  10. Ronie

    Ronie Here For The Long Haul!

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    When I first got mine I made up 1/4" burrs and as soon as it took a good bite it would strip the head.
     
  11. srcarr52

    srcarr52 Professional over thinker. GoldMember

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    Depending on the head latch style some tear up the drive flat inside the cartridge pretty quickly with a 1/4" burr. The normal push button that has a sort of iris mechanism to hold the groove does not last long since the drive flat is short and strips easy.

    I use and supply the YAD style head which have a longer drive flat and a guillotine style groove mechanism. There is also one style which has a flip over tang to locate the groove which is super sturdy but I have not been able to find a reliable supplier of those at a decent price. Both of these styles can deal with 1/4" burrs and they'll last a decent amount of time, the problem is it's easy to stuff a 1/4" burr in the back of the port and if you do you'll strip the gears of these styles. With the 3/16" burr is can suffer a few stuffings without stripping as it can generate enough torque to keep the burr from stopping instantly.
     
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