Repairing stripped bar stud holes

[Brewz]

Hi Folks.

I now have 2 x 1122 064/066 cases here with a stripped bar stud hole.

The 066 belongs to a friend and has had a helicoil installed by a dealer. The stud refuses to stay tight and keeps winding out.
The 064 is a busted old saw I bought to fix up and make a fun/race saw.

I am wondering is anyone knows if it is possible to get a bar mount stud with a 12mm case thread so I can just tap the hole out and wind in a new stud?

Cheers

 

[Jon1212]

Is it the stud backing out, or the helicoil?

 

[Dub11]

Is their room for a time sert?

 

[Sleeper]

Do you know someone that can weld magnesium?

Having it welded up and then tapped again is the best way to do it. Any good outboard shop should be able to do it. Don't know if you're close to any though.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I know there is a larger thread front stud available for the 1127 series. (The rear stud bolts into the short block.) Not sure how that may translate to the 1122.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

https://www.ebay.com/p/OEM-STIHL-Ch...t-Bar-Stud-1127-664-2410-Ms390-029/1008146278

 

[Jon1212]

https://www.ebay.com/p/OEM-STIHL-Ch...t-Bar-Stud-1127-664-2410-Ms390-029/1008146278

Those are from @Definitive Dave

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

These are another option from DDave. The others are standard for the 1127's from anyone.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Stihl-Chainsaw-replacement-OVERSIZE-bar-stud-READ-COMPLETELY-1115-664-2405/322195536956?_trkparms=aid=888007&algo=DISC.MBE&ao=1&asc=44040&meid=fd9b9392267645a0b1561a46264869de&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=322029767619&itm=322195536956&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Unless you plan on exchanging studs for running multiple bars I'd just epoxy it in place.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

??? An 056 bar pattern is the same as an 066.

 

[jmester]

As far as I know Stihl doesn't offer an oversized stud for the 1122 series. I was thinking you could use an 088/880 stud. You would need to turn the shoulder down to run the 12mm mount bar.
The 880 stud measures .390 =9.90mm
The 660 stud measures .312= 7.92mm

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I got the impression from reading the info from DDave in the second link that the 1115 series studs were a larger thread than normal and may offer a solution to sripped threads on the 1122 series (and possibly others). Maybe I misunderstood what I was reading, or maybe it's a fix for stripped collar screw threads in 1122 series cases. I just tossed it out there as a possibility since I was curious myself.

 

[jakethesnake]

I got the impression from reading the info from DDave in the second link that the 1115 series studs were a larger thread than normal and may offer a solution to sripped threads on the 1122 series (and possibly others). Maybe I misunderstood what I was reading, or maybe it's a fix for stripped collar screw threads in 1122 series cases. I just tossed it out there as a possibility since I was curious myself.

That’s what I’m getting out of it. I think that’s exactly the idea here. The bar stud would stay the same. The larger end screws into the case. The smaller end is where the bar would sit. I’m with you.

 

[MustangMike]

I go along with what Jim said, and Loctite PL Premium will also work well.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Once, and only once, I did the "impossible". I drilled out the stripped bar stud hole with a 3/8" bit on my drill press and threaded it with a 7/16" common thread tap. Then I took a typical 7/16" bolt and cut off the threaded end the same length as the depth of the hole in the case.

I next drilled a hole straight down the center of the bolt cutoff (not easy) and threaded that the same as the bar stud's metric end. Then I drove the bolt cutoff into the case, after applying thread adhesive, and set the stud into its threaded metric hole at almost the same time while using the stud as a driver. I waited an hour, crossed my fingers, and it all held rock solid.

As I said above, I doubt I will ever do it again. My nerves were shot. But, that 066 is in service today.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Once, and only once, I did the "impossible". I drilled out the stripped bar stud hole with a 3/8" bit on my drill press and threaded it with a 7/16" common thread tap. Then I took a typical 7/16" bolt and cut off the threaded end the same length as the depth of the hole in the case.

I next drilled a hole straight down the center of the bolt cutoff (not easy) and threaded that the same as the bar stud's metric end. Then I drove the bolt cutoff into the case, after applying thread adhesive, and set the stud into its threaded metric hole at almost the same time while using the stud as a driver. I waited an hour, crossed my fingers, and it all held rock solid.

As I said above, I doubt I will ever do it again. My nerves were shot. But, that 066 is in service today.

I don't drink but you Sir........ You Sir deserve a drink for that one!

It rarely happens when they are truly dead nuts center but when they are. It's wonderful. All the guys with the cool machine tools probably laugh at it, but it takes alot with basic tools.

Steven

 

[RI Chevy]

The bar stud for an 056 is the one most guys use when this happens. It is oversized where it threads into the saw case. Very strong.

 

[nohoff]

Those 1115 bar studs are NLA in germany, but we did order a batch of 500 pieces for future repairs

 

[Al Smith]

An 056 stud was what was used .It's M8 on the bar side and M10 on the saw side .
A product called "time sert" probably makes the best thread inserts .In fact Rousch racing uses them on every Ford block they turn into racing engines .Google it if you want .

 

[Glock37]

Thread serts are the answer they work great