RatchetScrench

[Philbert]

Came across a ratcheting chainsaw tool, designed to tighten and remove bar nuts with the ease of a socket wrench, and the convenience of a conventional scrench: the 'RatchetScrench'
https://ratchetscrench.com/

First Impressions

Got mine the other day: under $24 shipped, when buying direct or from Amazon.



Feels like a decent quality tool. Overall appearance is pretty good, with a textured, chrome finish. Some minor, cosmetic issues on mine: one side of the screwdriver has a small 'step' in it; the ratchet lever is rounded over on one side, but sharper on the other side; and the rivet feels a little light. But it feels like it should hold up, unless used to pry open crates, or if packed with sand.






I took it over to my STIHL dealer and it worked on every saw I tried, including a few Husqvarnas (except for the saws with tool-less chain tensioners - those sides were facing towards the slat wall, and I had to turn each one around to see!). I also learned that some STIHL saws use the 13mm bar nuts!

It really seemed to be of value with saws that have full wrap handles: the ratchet mechanism eliminates the need to reposition the scrench when there is limited access. My dealer, a fourth generation saw shop, even seemed interested.

I also tried it with a few different types of gloves that I wear when operating a chainsaw: mostly 'mechanic's-style' gloves, but also some heavier leather ones. The lever was easy to operate and responded with a distinct 'click'.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Scrench to Scrench Comparisons

The RatchetScrench subjectively feels heavier than a conventional scrench. So I compared it against samples in my box of random screnches on a postal scale. While some were lighter, the RatchetScrench weighed 5.1 ounces, while a full-sized, STIHL branded scrench weighed 4.8; only 0.3 ounces difference!



The RatchetScrench is 3/4 of an inch shorter than the STIHL wrench, and the top tube is 1-1/4 inches shorter. The outer head diameter is about 1/4 inches larger in diameter. Maybe it is just the way that the mass is centered at the socket end that creates the impression of weight?

The shorter top tube length should make it easier to use with those cursed, front access, chain tensioner screws. However, it places the shaft of the tool right up against the side / clutch cover on a few of the saws. The ratchet mechanism should allow the shaft to be re-positioned clear of the cover in most cases.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

How's It Hangin'?

I like this tool, but I am not sure whether it is more likely to live in my pocket, or my tool bag, in the field. I wanted to find a simple way to tether it to prevent loss, without needing a special holster, if I did decide to carry it.

The hole through the center of the sockets offered the best options. I played around with accessory carabiners, and some cord, and decided that a combination of the two was the simplest. This could be used to secure it to a pack, or in a tool pouch, in addition to a belt or piece of equipment.



Philbert

 

[LOMartin]

Have you tested packing the mech with dirt? Curious to see how it handles the typical dirt it would see in use.

I was looking at these too, thanks for testing it out and sharing the info.

 

[Philbert]

Have you tested packing the mech with dirt?

I am sure that it would be possible to pack it with enough sand or dirt to stall out the ratchet. Maybe even wood chips mixed with bar oil. But it looks like the mechanism is loose enough that some compressed air, through the top oil hole and from the sides, would clear it out. Might become part of your regular routine when you blow out nose sprockets, etc.

Phlbert

 

[LOMartin]

I am sure that it would be possible to pack it with enough sand or dirt to stall out the ratchet. Maybe even wood chips mixed with bar oil. But it looks like the mechanism is loose enough that some compressed air, through the top oil hole and from the sides, would clear it out. Might become part of your regular routine when you blow out nose sprockets, etc.

Phlbert

Loose mech, sounds like they may have prepared for the conditions this tool will see in the field.
Good stuff.

 

[Wolverine]

Completely lost me at... made in shynah. Eff shynah, we aren't helping ourselves consuming their goods.

 

[ammoaddict]

How does it work on spark plugs?

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[Czed]

There's a recall on some of those check the link
https://ratchetscrench.com/purchase

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Didn't seem to want to do export freight either.

 

[Philbert]

How does it work on spark plugs?

Not for plugs. Does not have the depth / reach.

Personally, I hardly pull plugs in the field with newer saws. If I need to, I have other tools in a bag, along with additional stuff. But if you do, could be a deal breaker.

Philbert

 

[RatchetScrench]

First Impressions

Got mine the other day: under $24 shipped, when buying direct or from Amazon.

View attachment 247275

Feels like a decent quality tool. Overall appearance is pretty good, with a textured, chrome finish. Some minor, cosmetic issues on mine: one side of the screwdriver has a small 'step' in it; the ratchet lever is rounded over on one side, but sharper on the other side; and the rivet feels a little light. But it feels like it should hold up, unless used to pry open crates, or if packed with sand.

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert!

I'm intrigued that Stihl is using 13mm bar nuts on some of their saws. I haven't seen some of their newest saws, yet; are they the same bar nuts as seen on Huskys? The reason I ask is that, during stress-testing of hundreds of tools, the thicker Husky nuts seem to hold up better than the thinner Stihl nuts. (This involves tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen for each tool, so those bar nuts are getting worked. I've stripped the Stihl nut and stud long before the Husky side started showing any signs of wear). Just an observation; must be those extra couple threads making the difference.)

Glad to hear that you are able to operate the RatchetScrench with gloves. I, too, was usually using some sort of mechanic's glove (and eventually graduated to Maxiflex Ultimate, which are awesome). Both actually help with grip when the RatchetScrench inevitably gets a coating of bar oil on it. Like any new tool, the owner will develop their methods of use and muscle-memory; sometimes I used thumb and index finger on the socket, while "flicking" the handle up with my ring-finger to gain a few clicks of the ratchet, thereby allowing for those last few threads to tighten/loosen. To each their own; hopefully others post their tips on usage.

Also happy to hear that the weight difference isn't substantial between a full-size Stihl scrench and the RatchetScrench. That info will be useful to our wildland firefighters who can be picky about prioritizing the items in their packs according to weight.

To address the RECALL that affects a small amount of those initial orders: here is the link to our website, which shows how last week's customers can get their tool replaced IF they're having problems:

https://ratchetscrench.com

**ALL FUTURE ORDERS ARE GETTING A THOROUGH STRESS TEST BEFORE SHIPMENT**

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert. Hope to see others join in!

 

[Czed]

First Impressions

Got mine the other day: under $24 shipped, when buying direct or from Amazon.

View attachment 247275

Feels like a decent quality tool. Overall appearance is pretty good, with a textured, chrome finish. Some minor, cosmetic issues on mine: one side of the screwdriver has a small 'step' in it; the ratchet lever is rounded over on one side, but sharper on the other side; and the rivet feels a little light. But it feels like it should hold up, unless used to pry open crates, or if packed with sand.

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert!

I'm intrigued that Stihl is using 13mm bar nuts on some of their saws. I haven't seen some of their newest saws, yet; are they the same bar nuts as seen on Huskys? The reason I ask is that, during stress-testing of hundreds of tools, the thicker Husky nuts seem to hold up better than the thinner Stihl nuts. (This involves tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen for each tool, so those bar nuts are getting worked. I've stripped the Stihl nut and stud long before the Husky side started showing any signs of wear). Just an observation; must be those extra couple threads making the difference.)

Glad to hear that you are able to operate the RatchetScrench with gloves. I, too, was usually using some sort of mechanic's glove (and eventually graduated to Maxiflex Ultimate, which are awesome). Both actually help with grip when the RatchetScrench inevitably gets a coating of bar oil on it. Like any new tool, the owner will develop their methods of use and muscle-memory; sometimes I used thumb and index finger on the socket, while "flicking" the handle up with my ring-finger to gain a few clicks of the ratchet, thereby allowing for those last few threads to tighten/loosen. To each their own; hopefully others post their tips on usage.

Also happy to hear that the weight difference isn't substantial between a full-size Stihl scrench and the RatchetScrench. That info will be useful to our wildland firefighters who can be picky about prioritizing the items in their packs according to weight.

To address the RECALL that affects a small amount of those initial orders: here is the link to our website, which shows how last week's customers can get their tool replaced IF they're having problems:

https://ratchetscrench.com

**ALL FUTURE ORDERS ARE GETTING A THOROUGH STRESS TEST BEFORE SHIPMENT**

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert. Hope to see others join in!

Talk to hl supply about your products
It may benefit you both.

 

[srcarr52]

I just ordered a couple of these. They look like they'll be much better to use on Husky full wraps.

My only complaint on the design would be why use a 12 point socket on a ratchet mechanism? Hopefully it fits the bar nuts tight so it doesn't wiggle around a lot while tightening one handed.

 

[Thumper88]

I just ordered one to try. I wear a fallers belt anytime I’m dropping trees and I normally carry one of the short headed Stihl scrench in it. I’m gonna replace it with this if it works as advertised. Thanks for the review!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CR888]

I've always thought why doesn't someone make a ratcheting scrench, the basic tool has been chopped & changed and sold in various formats buy people who think they can make it better which is great. I'm sure many are happy with many of those products but....when I buy a $1000 pro saw it comes with a simple tool that works, is very hard to break, nobody wants to pinch it and in the thousands of times I've used them has never failed to work, it's simple & dead reliable. I'm happy with that, I've never had a bad day sawing due to a scrench. Most of the undoing and doing up of bar nuts is done with my fingers. The scrench just breaks it loose or snugs it tight. But people will buy them...it's human nature & I'm glad we can if we want to buy a ratcheting scrench.

 

[Philbert]

Wrapped mine with some spare, reflective tape. We'll see how long it stays on the handle. First photo in normal, indoor lighting:


Second photo is pitch black basement, hit with a photo flash (how it might look if I searched for it at night):


UPDATE: the tape peeled off - the stuff I used is too stiff to take the tight radius of the handle.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

New Kid on the Block?

This thread has been quiet for a long time; especially for an innovative new product. Ran across a similar product on eBay today:





Almost twice the price, with shipping. Says these are custom made. And, as the photos show, can be used on spark plugs on some saws.

Philbert

 

[CR888]

That look like a modified 'go through' socket ratchet with a more conventional 72T mechanism with switch lever. Likely Taiwan made. Being able to use on the sparkplug is good. I still don't see any real benefit over a cheap simple conventional scrench. How you finding your ratchet scrench Phil, do you prefer using it over the ol scrench?

 

[CR888]

Actually, I think someone has bought a bunch of 3/4"/19mm ratcheting box end wrenches, cut the beam off and replaced it (welded on) a flat head screwdriver blade. Then welded in a 6point plumbers 'tube wrench'.