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Price check 10mm 044 piston

BonScott46

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Just curious what guys are getting 10mm pistons for stateside. Tore down my 10mm to check things over and re ring and tighten the squish. Figured I would check the price on an OEM piston for *s-words and giggles, ended up being mostly *s-words....170 bucks. :( On a positive note the piston wash looked pretty good IMO.

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cus_deluxe

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i think meteor makes one? and if i remember, a 12mm piston will work in 10mm cylinder, just not the other way around
 

drf256

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A year or two ago, OEM were around $50. Now close to $80-90.

The only issue with the meteor is weight. At least on the 52mm 046/460 piston, the meteor with pin weigh around 9 grams more. Without pin it’s 6-7 grams more, and the stock pin is too long to use on the meteor, it needs to have some removed on the lathe which isn’t doable for many.

The factory states that one can’t use a 10mm pin in a 12mm jug. They state it’s because they widened the skirts on the 12mm piston and made the ports wider, so the 10mm ring pins could get caught. I believe that they are simply more conservative than we are. By the eye, it looks fine to me but YMMV.

The meteor 10mm slug is basically a carbon copy of their 12mm slug with a 10mm pin. The skirts and pin placement are the same. Unfortunately so is the pin boss width, so it’s too wide for the 10mm rod small end and allows the 10mm pin bearing to slip side to side. It’s a theoretical issue and I haven’t heard of any real world failures.

A 10mm 044 is a thing of beauty. Clean up the band, tighten squish, do the old TA and MM and hold on. It will be right on the heels of any ported 044.
 

qurotro

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Hm.... Could anybody tells me the price of the oem 3120xp piston? Meteor doesn't even make one. Chinesium with caber rings?
 

BonScott46

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A year or two ago, OEM were around $50. Now close to $80-90.

The only issue with the meteor is weight. At least on the 52mm 046/460 piston, the meteor with pin weigh around 9 grams more. Without pin it’s 6-7 grams more, and the stock pin is too long to use on the meteor, it needs to have some removed on the lathe which isn’t doable for many.

The factory states that one can’t use a 10mm pin in a 12mm jug. They state it’s because they widened the skirts on the 12mm piston and made the ports wider, so the 10mm ring pins could get caught. I believe that they are simply more conservative than we are. By the eye, it looks fine to me but YMMV.

The meteor 10mm slug is basically a carbon copy of their 12mm slug with a 10mm pin. The skirts and pin placement are the same. Unfortunately so is the pin boss width, so it’s too wide for the 10mm rod small end and allows the 10mm pin bearing to slip side to side. It’s a theoretical issue and I haven’t heard of any real world failures.

A 10mm 044 is a thing of beauty. Clean up the band, tighten squish, do the old TA and MM and hold on. It will be right on the heels of any ported 044.
I thought I had heard 50-60 a while ago. If they are going for 80-90 now then I am not so shocked at the price being double. I put some new cabers on which should last until the piston needs to be replaced. Saw pulls a 24 very well in hardwood (oak,ash or beech) with only a MM. IMO Stihl was trying to match the weight and performance of a 10mm 044 when they made the 462.
 

BonScott46

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You guys think it would be a good idea to replace the wrist pin bearing?
 

JonCraig

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So... I just completed a 10mm 044 rebuild a month or three ago... you’re tellin’ me I should have used a Meteor instead of re-using the old one (with Caber rings)?

It does run like a raped ape... :)
 

BonScott46

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So... I just completed a 10mm 044 rebuild a month or three ago... you’re tellin’ me I should have used a Meteor instead of re-using the old one (with Caber rings)?

It does run like a raped ape... :)
I am still running the original piston and my guess is it could go a couple hundred more hours from the looks of it. I probably didn't need to ring it (I had a set of cabers sitting around anyway) or change the wrist pin bearing but I figure then I know they have been changed and when. The main thing I wanted to do was check the condition of things, clean out accumulated carbon and tighten the squish but this way I don't need to tear it down again until it needs a light hone and a new piston or maybe a conversion to a 12mm crank and piston...:rolleyes:
 

MustangMike

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I bought a new OEM piston for my 10 mm (before the price increase, was less than $50), but it is a Mahle piston, and the one in my saw is KS.

The KS has wings (stabilizers), and the skirt was slightly longer. Since the old piston looked just fine, the new one is still in the box.

I plan to just keep it in case I ever need it.
 
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