Out of tensioner travel-options.

[EbS-P]

Hi Everyone.

New member here. I have been read for about two months now. This is my first thread. Thank you all for thoughts, comments and advice. I’m am a very well informed but inexperienced when it comes to milling I have about 20-30 tanks through my G660 milling a tulip poplar that was blown over in 2018.


My issue is I have run out of adjustment on my 36” hard nose Holtzforma milling bar and chains. I have a 52” milling bar as well (I have milled a crotch that was 42” wide at the top). I believe I have cooked the hard nose and after dressing the tip to remove the gouge it’s now shorter and the tensioner is at the end of its travel and probably softened some as there was some scorched paint at the tip. (I have a 28” bar as well)


I am making 3x6s and have about 20 more 11’ cuts to make with a max width of 28”-29” for half of the cuts 18” for the other half.


Seems like I have three options.

1- drill new adjustment hole in the questionable 36” bar.

2–use the 52” bar for the rest of the wide cuts and switch to the 28” for the narrow ones.

3- get a new 36” 0.063 bar. If so what brand. It might se double duty bucking large poplars for firewood but it wouldn’t have to. I don’t think it would see much use other than milling. I don’t see any more large milling projects anytime soon.

4- take a link out of the Carleton chain. I only have Archer presets and ties. Are they compatible?


Which option would you choose? Is there something I didn’t think of? Thanks for your help.


Thanks Evan

edit-added pictures

 

[Sagebrush33]

Hi, welcome to OPE.
I vote for #3.

 

[jacob j.]

Your easiest option might be to drill another tensioner hole in the 36" bar, but you need to make sure the slot for the bar studs is going to be long enough.

Otherwise, removing a link from your chains would then be the better choice if the slot isn't going to be long enough. It should be easy enough to get
presets and tie straps for Carlton chain either online or from a dealer or have a dealer shorten your chains.

 

[huskihl]

Could also go up to an 8 tooth sprocket

 

[jacob j.]

Could also go up to an 8 tooth sprocket

You think a Chinese 660 is going to be up to that?

 

[Sagebrush33]

Your easiest option might be to drill another tensioner hole in the 36" bar, but you need to make sure the slot for the bar studs is going to be long enough

That thought was my first my first thought, but on a China made bar with a compromised hard nose sprocket... Just get a new quality bar and be done with it.

 

[jacob j.]

That thought was my first. But on a Chin made bar with a compromised hard nose sprocket... Just get a new quality bar and be done with it.

Normally I'd agree, but if this is his only milling job and he hasn't compromised the hard-facing of the tip, it can probably last him the remainder of this job. Sometimes buying more stuff isn't really the answer.

 

[Sagebrush33]

only milling job

I'm under the impression he's starting out milling with a saw but, he will continue to do so.
I guess it's time to hear from the OP again.

 

[EbS-P]

I'm under the impression he's starting out milling with a saw but, he will continue to do so.
I guess it's time to hear from the OP again.

I don’t have any more large projects in mind after this one. I need 25-30 3x6s between this tree an another in my back yard. I have been banned from brining any more slabs into the house and calling them furniture or art. I should add some pics to the project thread. I have considered a light weight 36” bar but I don’t see it getting much use. A 28” light weight would be a better investment.

8 T sprocket seems like a good first try. If the bar is to far gone to be useful what 36” bar would you recommend. I’d like to keep it under 150$ if possible.

 

[Sagebrush33]

I don’t have any more large projects in mind after this one. I need 25-30 3x6s between this tree an another in my back yard. I have been banned from brining any more slabs into the house and calling them furniture or art. I should add some pics to the project thread. I have considered a light weight 36” bar but I don’t see it getting much use. A 28” light weight would be a better investment.

8 T sprocket seems like a good first try. If the bar is to far gone to be useful what 36” bar would you recommend. I’d like to keep it under 150$ if possible.

Buy an Oregon or Woodland Pro bar.

 

[EbS-P]

You think a Chinese 660 is going to be up to that?

It’s poplar and it can pull 42” cut full house ripping chain. I don’t push it. Keep the chain sharp, rakers at .o25. It’s what I got and I’ve gotten my money out of it so far. I think bar is more what I’m concerned about than the saw.

 

[EbS-P]

Your easiest option might be to drill another tensioner hole in the 36" bar, but you need to make sure the slot for the bar studs is going to be long enough.

Otherwise, removing a link from your chains would then be the better choice if the slot isn't going to be long enough. It should be easy enough to get
presets and tie straps for Carlton chain either online or from a dealer or have a dealer shorten your chains.

I looked at how much space I had at the back of the slot. Looked like I might need to file it back another 1/16”. For a bar that might be junk I’m ok doing drilling and filing it.

 

[Thumper88]

Id just take a link from the chain. Done it several times with a file or grinder and a ball pein hammer

 

[jacob j.]

I looked at how much space I had at the back of the slot. Looked like I might need to file it back another 1/16”. For a bar that might be junk I’m ok doing drilling and filing it.

If you go with a larger sprocket, which is a good suggestion, then you can tune your chain so that the load is comparable on the motor as to what you're running now. Running your rakers a little shallower and
cleaning the gullet out more helps with chatter generated by a bigger sprocket.

 

[Czed]

Hi Everyone.

New member here. I have been read for about two months now. This is my first thread. Thank you all for thoughts, comments and advice. I’m am a very well informed but inexperienced when it comes to milling I have about 20-30 tanks through my G660 milling a tulip poplar that was blown over in 2018.


My issue is I have run out of adjustment on my 36” hard nose Holtzforma milling bar and chains. I have a 52” milling bar as well (I have milled a crotch that was 42” wide at the top). I believe I have cooked the hard nose and after dressing the tip to remove the gouge it’s now shorter and the tensioner is at the end of its travel and probably softened some as there was some scorched paint at the tip. (I have a 28” bar as well)


I am making 3x6s and have about 20 more 11’ cuts to make with a max width of 28”-29” for half of the cuts 18” for the other half.


Seems like I have three options.

1- drill new adjustment hole in the questionable 36” bar.

2–use the 52” bar for the rest of the wide cuts and switch to the 28” for the narrow ones.

3- get a new 36” 0.063 bar. If so what brand. It might se double duty bucking large poplars for firewood but it wouldn’t have to. I don’t think it would see much use other than milling. I don’t see any more large milling projects anytime soon.

4- take a link out of the Carleton chain. I only have Archer presets and ties. Are they compatible?


Which option would you choose? Is there something I didn’t think of? Thanks for your help.


Thanks Evan

edit-added pictures

Welcome to the site
Just drop a link or possibly 2 with worn chain.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I,m thinking the chain is more stretched than a worn bar nose.

 

[huskihl]

You think a Chinese 660 is going to be up to that?

Doubt it. But depending on his chain preferences...

 

[huskihl]

Normally I'd agree, but if this is his only milling job and he hasn't compromised the hard-facing of the tip, it can probably last him the remainder of this job. Sometimes buying more stuff isn't really the answer.

And that’s kinda where I was going with the larger sprocket. Might not be ideal, but it might also get him through this job for $7

 

[EbS-P]

Well I decided to drill a new tensioner hole. I knew bars are hard but after dulling a pile of drill bits and resorting to the dremel i got through. Have not fitted chain yet. I did notice that it’s listed as a .404 bar (104 DL). Does that equal 114 DL of 3/8”? I will report back if the bar is toast or not.

 

[EbS-P]

And that’s kinda where I was going with the larger sprocket. Might not be ideal, but it might also get him through this job for $7

The 8 T was the best solution. I just needed it for tomorrow morning and didn’t have time to see if my local dealer had one in stock and go get it. I thought I have a drill press and a sharp bit. I’ll be fine.......