Oregon vs Super Jolly

[Larry B]

oregon and super jolly. Appear to be identical. Both made by Tecomec. $375 vs $280. Only difference I see is oregon wheels red and super jolly are green.

 

[Ryan Browne]

Tecomec makes both.

 

[Philbert]

Sometimes there are small feature differences between similar machines; most people would not notice.

Grinding wheel colors are cosmetic, but can distinguish between coarseness, bond, etc., within a specific brand. I have noticed small differences when compared side-by-side, but again, most people would not notice in normal use. All are a huge step up in quality and performance from what comes on the 'clone' grinders IMHO.

Philbert

 

[Junk Meister]

We had a white stone on our Jockey grinder for the head saw (Circle sawmil) we sawed mostly cottonwood our neighbor mill sawed grade lumber (Walnut and hard woods) and they used a ruby wheel. This was before they had carbide teeth available, Looking at the grinding wheel chart I wonder if the kind of wood the saw chain is cutting affects how much a wheel can get gummed up (filled with contaminants) and start to burn the cutters and so the need for different "consumption" rates as that would allow the wheel to 'shed' its skin surface along with the dirt plugging the pores. Would it be a good practice to clean the chain prior to sharpening? I have never had the need of a chain grinder but I see friends struggle with sharpening chain and most of it is taking details like this for granted.

 

[Philbert]

I prefer to clean chains before grinding for several reasons. Most grinding wheels need to be dressed periodically to continuously expose fresh abrasive.

Philbert

 

[Junk Meister]

I prefer to clean chains before grinding for several reasons. Most grinding wheels need to be dressed periodically to continuously expose fresh abrasive.

Philbert

How is the easiest way to clean a chain for you? I tend to shut my saw off as I get out of the cut when I know I will be filing the chain, seems to help keep file cleaner.

 

[Philbert]

How is the easiest way to clean a chain for you? I tend to shut my saw off as I get out of the cut when I know I will be filing the chain, seems to help keep file cleaner.

A number of ways to do this, depending on how dirty /gummed up the chain is, and how clean you want it. For a lot of guys, what you describe is adequate.

Some guys drive a nail in a board; stretch out the chain loop; hit it with WD-40 and a stiff brush.

Some chains are coated in sap, or in dried bar oil that looks like asphalt. A solvent cleaning is required to free up the links, and let oil flow back into the rivet bearing, as well as to inspect the chain and keep gunk out of the grinding wheel.

I tend to do a 'chain spa' that strips off all the gunk (and oil), then re-lube afterwards. More details in these A.S. thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Philbert

 

[Junk Meister]

A number of ways to do this, depending on how dirty /gummed up the chain is, and how clean you want it. For a lot of guys, what you describe is adequate.

Some guys drive a nail in a board; stretch out the chain loop; hit it with WD-40 and a stiff brush.

Some chains are coated in sap, or in dried bar oil that looks like asphalt. A solvent cleaning is required to free up the links, and let oil flow back into the rivet bearing, as well as to inspect the chain and keep gunk out of the grinding wheel.

I tend to do a 'chain spa' that strips off all the gunk (and oil), then re-lube afterwards. More details in these A.S. thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Philbert

Thank You for providing the Links and for the time you spent on answering my questions.

 

[Larry B]

When I sharpen customer chains I soak them in gas for an hour or so then air blow them dry. After sharpening I put them in a small ziplock bag and give them a good shot of WD40. Some weekend warriors won't use a chain for months.

 

[Carhartt]

Where would Stihl grey wheels fall on this chart?

Sometimes there are small feature differences between similar machines; most people would not notice.

Grinding wheel colors are cosmetic, but can distinguish between coarseness, bond, etc., within a specific brand. I have noticed small differences when compared side-by-side, but again, most people would not notice in normal use. All are a huge step up in quality and performance from what comes on the 'clone' grinders IMHO.

Philbert
View attachment 176221

 

[Philbert]

Where would Stihl grey wheels fall on this chart?

I don't know.

As I understand it, there are multiple variables, including: type of abrasive, size of grit, type of bond, rim speed, etc. The color is dye.

You might be able to get some info from STIHL. Madsen's might be able to tell you more.

Please share if you find something out!

Philbert

 

[Carhartt]

I bought a broken Jolly and repaired it with Oregon parts. So, yea interchangeable. Still have some new parts leftover if anyone needs something for a 511 or jolly star (I believe). Super is hydraulic, correct?

 

[Ryan Browne]

I bought a broken Jolly and repaired it with Oregon parts. So, yea interchangeable. Still have some new parts leftover if anyone needs something for a 511 or jolly star (I believe). Super is hydraulic, correct?

Correct. Super jolly is the equivalent to the 620.

 

[Altamaha]

Super: Hydraulic: Nice! 177 drivers on the loop in the drip pan.

Brake cleaner and carb cleaner in the two spray cans.

I soak chains in gas first to get all the loose stuff off (good use for that stale two stroke mix)

Then spray with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and let soak overnight

Clean off with a small stainless steel wire brush

Swish in gas again, let dry

Grind

Swish in gas one more time, let dry

Spray with a 50:50 mix of WD 40 and auto transmission fluid

Put on the bar, fill the oil tank, pull chain through by hand while pumping oil, get lots of oil in the chain.

Keep them clean and sharp and properly adjusted chains last a long time.

OH YEA, do not let the chain hit the dirt when bucking! If the logs are dirty I hit them with the pressure washer before sawing. Bucking wedges are your friend, lets you see the bottom of the cut.

I have the auto oilers on the big saws set to high and pump the manual a lot when cutting. Bar oil is cheap.

In the winter I dilute the chain oil 25 per cent with kerosene.

 

[Marshy]

Super: Hydraulic: Nice! 177 drivers on the loop in the drip pan.

Brake cleaner and carb cleaner in the two spray cans.

I soak chains in gas first to get all the loose stuff off (good use for that stale two stroke mix)

Then spray with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and let soak overnight

Clean off with a small stainless steel wire brush

Swish in gas again, let dry

Grind

Swish in gas one more time, let dry

Spray with a 50:50 mix of WD 40 and auto transmission fluid

Put on the bar, fill the oil tank, pull chain through by hand while pumping oil, get lots of oil in the chain.

Keep them clean and sharp and properly adjusted chains last a long time.

OH YEA, do not let the chain hit the dirt when bucking! If the logs are dirty I hit them with the pressure washer before sawing. Bucking wedges are your friend, lets you see the bottom of the cut.

I have the auto oilers on the big saws set to high and pump the manual a lot when cutting. Bar oil is cheap.

In the winter I dilute the chain oil 25 per cent with kerosene.

Do you have any time left in the day to cut?

 

[Philbert]

I soak chains in gas first to get all the loose stuff off (good use for that stale two stroke mix)
Then spray with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and let soak overnight

Looks like a nice shop.

I am a big believer in cleaning chains before grinding. But have gone to water based cleaners, since I usually do this in the basement.

I do the WD-40 treatment after (but no ATF, since all my saws have clutches!).

Philbert

 

[Skeans1]

Looks like a nice shop.

I am a big believer in cleaning chains before grinding. But have gone to water based cleaners, since I usually do this in the basement.

I do the WD-40 treatment after (but no ATF, since all my saws have clutches!).

Philbert

I know Oregon told us in a class for harvester to soak in clean motor oil.


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