High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Need some info on this saw

kneedeepinsaws

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Hey all
As always you guys have helped me out before on information.
A good friend of mine is selling the saw below. I don’t have much experience with these but it does run. Leaking oil quite a bit he says, I haven’t seen it in person yet but he is willing to sell it.
Like I mentioned he is a good friend so the last thing I want to do is low ball him, I want to pay him what is fair.

let me know what you guys think for a price and if you have any info on this saw please share :)
 

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ktmtigger

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That running around me would be a 100 dollar saw. Now leaking oil bad I would give 75 but I'm cheap and time is money

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drf256

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Overbuilt beast of a saw that’s very hard to kill. Will take a 272 top end and intake tract if you choose to do so.

Totally worth it. Gotta say, I’m not a Husky guy but the toughness of that model and the overall simplicity of their “2” series impressed me.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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Overbuilt beast of a saw that’s very hard to kill. Will take a 272 top end and intake tract if you choose to do so.

Totally worth it. Gotta say, I’m not a Husky guy but the toughness of that model and the overall simplicity of their “2” series impressed me.
Well he has now decided not to sell :( however they are available and somewhat common it seems so I’ll find one eventually. Does the 272 top end fit without modifying the intake block, carb or top cover?
 

drf256

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The entire intake block is different. IIRC, the 266 has a block that bolts to the jug, then the carb bolts to the block. The 272 has the more familiar though bolt set up, where the 2 long bolts slip through the elbow/carb/Block and bolts to the jug. You’d need that entire tract which IIRC is hard to find.

The cover fits over a 272 jug, the boot will rub on the top cover, but it fits. The decomp valve on a jug with one won’t clear the metal brake. You’ll need to plug or get the more modern plastic brake cover.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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The entire intake block is different. IIRC, the 266 has a block that bolts to the jug, then the carb bolts to the block. The 272 has the more familiar though bolt set up, where the 2 long bolts slip through the elbow/carb/Block and bolts to the jug. You’d need that entire tract which IIRC is hard to find.

The cover fits over a 272 jug, the boot will rub on the top cover, but it fits. The decomp valve on a jug with one won’t clear the metal brake. You’ll need to plug or get the more modern plastic brake cover.
Once again you always help me out and I absolutely appreciate that! Thanks
I know you can get an aftermarket 272 parts kit so I assumed that aftermarket cylinders and intakes would be sold separately. From what you are saying they are not...
 

davidwyby

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If the 266 is good I think I'd run it. Prices vary by location. I paid $150 for a rough runner. $40 for a rough missing parts project runner. I think I have seen nice ones go for $200+ on here..?
 
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kneedeepinsaws

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EF131D3E-E96B-45F5-AC18-6C8937218C72.jpeg 4AB8DD0A-C7D6-415F-BBCA-FA039C09D0E2.jpeg Here are some pics of the clutch,he wants me to try and fix it. Doesn’t idle, no kill switch, Myriad of issues. Looking at the clutch the spring is quite loose. I don’t have a service manual spec to check the diameter of the shoes but I can move it with my finger easily. Wondering if this spring should be replaced or is the slack normal?

lol look at the plastic washer it’s pretty much gone. This saw has a ton of hours. Cylinder and piston have minor scoring.
 

Stump Shot

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For practicality's sake with the age and high hours combined you are most likely looking at a full rebuild, that said, I would keep the 266 cylinder if at all possible to clean up and get a new piston either from Husqvarna(268), Meteor or Duke's Performance. The full open window of the 268 design works best for performance, the original full circle pistons are best for stability in the bore and longevity. If the bore is ruined then get a 272xp and accompanying parts from Husqvarna to convert. The new 272xp C-spring clutch from Husqvarna is the way to go here.
A good running 266 will hang with a 272 until a really large log comes to play, then the extra bit of CC's will show, otherwise the 266 cuts above it's weight with High compression(Double D chamber heads) and are nice to run and certainly worth fixing even compared to today's modern saw's.
Ported, they're just nuts.
 

fossil

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View attachment 294666 View attachment 294667 Here are some pics of the clutch,he wants me to try and fix it. Doesn’t idle, no kill switch, Myriad of issues. Looking at the clutch the spring is quite loose. I don’t have a service manual spec to check the diameter of the shoes but I can move it with my finger easily. Wondering if this spring should be replaced or is the slack normal?

lol look at the plastic washer it’s pretty much gone. This saw has a ton of hours. Cylinder and piston have minor scoring.

The clutch shoes need to be at least 1 mm thick at the most worn part so they are good on your saw.

If the spring is loose you should get a new garter spring. If you can't find one, you can always cut a couple of coils off and bend the end of the spring to reattach it.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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For practicality's sake with the age and high hours combined you are most likely looking at a full rebuild, that said, I would keep the 266 cylinder if at all possible to clean up and get a new piston either from Husqvarna(268), Meteor or Duke's Performance. The full open window of the 268 design works best for performance, the original full circle pistons are best for stability in the bore and longevity. If the bore is ruined then get a 272xp and accompanying parts from Husqvarna to convert. The new 272xp C-spring clutch from Husqvarna is the way to go here.
A good running 266 will hang with a 272 until a really large log comes to play, then the extra bit of CC's will show, otherwise the 266 cuts above it's weight with High compression(Double D chamber heads) and are nice to run and certainly worth fixing even compared to today's modern saw's.
Ported, they're just nuts.
Thanks for that info. The p&c look pretty good with only a small score mark on the exhaust side. More disassembly will tell me more.
I’m getting pretty good at cutting gaskets although buying an AM set would be easiest. Anyone have any links for a gasket set?

bearings and seals I can get at my local transmission supply store. So really to get into this deeply I’m gonna round up gaskets, carb kit bearings and seals. I have most husky tools at this point at least enough to split the cases etc.

another complaint from him is that it’s leaking oil badly. So I’ll have to see what’s going on there

any tips tricks for when I rebuild this? Other than what you mentioned? Any oil pump issues or gaskets that are hard to come by etc?
 

kneedeepinsaws

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You definitely need a new spring, p/n 501403402, and the plastic washer is included in the Oregon rim/drum kit.
Do you have a p/n for the Oregon kit? They drum is warped and the tangs for the rim are chewed up some, not to mention the bearing is not feeling that great. Gonna keep the clutch cause it’s good @fossil (thanks!!) but like I said drum is done.
 

Czed

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Hey all
As always you guys have helped me out before on information.
A good friend of mine is selling the saw below. I don’t have much experience with these but it does run. Leaking oil quite a bit he says, I haven’t seen it in person yet but he is willing to sell it.
Like I mentioned he is a good friend so the last thing I want to do is low ball him, I want to pay him what is fair.

let me know what you guys think for a price and if you have any info on this saw please share :)
That's a early course thread clutch 266se
You have to find a spring
Or another course thread clutch to replace it with.
The kill switch to replace with new you'll have to add a ground.
The modern husky type switches are wired different
Some add a ground to a topcover hole
So when you put the cover on just
Put it through a lead.
If you pull the cylinder
The carb, cylinder and muffler can come off as one unit.
Just take the fasteners out
And pop the throttle and choke linkages
Out of the way.
I'd at least do seals if the bearing's are good
And a carb kit and a fuel tube
Check the condition of all the dual coil lead wire's with age they crack.
I'm liking the hyway 268 popups in those
Very strong runner's
But of course meteor and oem are
Available.
 

Czed

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Thanks for that info. The p&c look pretty good with only a small score mark on the exhaust side. More disassembly will tell me more.
I’m getting pretty good at cutting gaskets although buying an AM set would be easiest. Anyone have any links for a gasket set?

bearings and seals I can get at my local transmission supply store. So really to get into this deeply I’m gonna round up gaskets, carb kit bearings and seals. I have most husky tools at this point at least enough to split the cases etc.

another complaint from him is that it’s leaking oil badly. So I’ll have to see what’s going on there

any tips tricks for when I rebuild this? Other than what you mentioned? Any oil pump issues or gaskets that are hard to come by etc?
Don't forget the oring on the oil pump side.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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That's a early course thread clutch 266se
You have to find a spring
Or another course thread clutch to replace it with.
The kill switch to replace with new you'll have to add a ground.
The modern husky type switches are wired different
Some add a ground to a topcover hole
So when you put the cover on just
Put it through a lead.
If you pull the cylinder
The carb, cylinder and muffler can come off as one unit.
Just take the fasteners out
And pop the throttle and choke linkages
Out of the way.
I'd at least do seals if the bearing's are good
And a carb kit and a fuel tube
Check the condition of all the dual coil lead wire's with age they crack.
I'm liking the hyway 268 popups in those
Very strong runner's
But of course meteor and oem are
Available.

As long as I find a switch that fits it should work even if I have to run a new wire. I found the wire for the kill switch, just no switch. Would love a part number for the carb kit, hopefully the nozzle is still good on this one...

Don't forget the oring on the oil pump side.

Will do, I’ll check the parts diagram to see what you mean, thank you!

the rebuild is a go ahead so this should be fun. I’ll get it fully apart here and inspect it all.

thanks again!
 
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