High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Hello guy's. Date is 3-5-17. I have started building another sawmill. Have cut out the wheel well back panels and fenders, shaped and primed them. Ordered and received parts such as wheel hubs, axles, tires and wheels, acme threaded rod and nuts, a winch, flange bearings, pulley's and an 18 HP engine. I made longer axle shafts because the ones that came with the wheel hubs were to short for my design perimeters. I also have an idea of modifying an automotive A/C clutch to mount on the 1" engine crankshaft to drive the wheels, band saw blade and alternator. I'll explain more later. As promised I have taken some photos of my beginning progress. I could only upload 5 photos.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2549.JPG
    DSCF2549.JPG
    139 KB · Views: 155
  • DSCF2531.JPG
    DSCF2531.JPG
    196.7 KB · Views: 152
  • DSCF2532.JPG
    DSCF2532.JPG
    118.4 KB · Views: 146
  • DSCF2541.JPG
    DSCF2541.JPG
    161.1 KB · Views: 145
  • DSCF2538.JPG
    DSCF2538.JPG
    149.9 KB · Views: 132
Last edited:

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Well I hope so, I think if just the A/C clutch mod works the way I am thinking it will or hope that it will, this in itself will open up a whole new ballgame for everyone who wants to build a sawmill inexpensively. New drive clutches range in price from $250.00 to $700.00 depending on shaft and pulley size, an A/C clutch you can find at almost any junkyard for less than $40.00 in good condition, so I think it's worth the cost to modify one and try it out.
Oh, on my first sawmill one axle shaft did not turn, only the hub, wheel and tire did, the other shaft was keyed in three places, one for the wheel hub I cast out of aluminum then machined to fit, another was for the alternator drive pulley and the third was for the 14" drive pulley belted from the engine.
With my new design I will not have to cut keyways in either axle shaft as nether one will be turning only the wheel hubs will. The 14" drive pulley will be mounted to the inboard part of one wheel hub, the alternator 6" drive pulley will be mounted to the 14" pulley and one axle shaft will go through the center of both pulleys with no attachment points to the axle, so the pulleys, wheel hub, wheel and tire will all turn on the one axle as they will all be attached to the wheel hub only, all of this including the engine shaft and clutch, the alternator shaft and attached pulley and all the belts will be inside the wheel well, so no belt cover to make, will be a much safer machine to run and cost less to build. Thanks stump shot, I'll have more up later.
 

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Here are the flange bearing boxes with the flange bearings, axle shafts and wheel hubs, what they will look like when assembled. The four bolts threaded into the 3" square tubing are for band saw blade alignment and adjustment. The larger box will move left and right to tension the blade or removing the blade. I will show more as these boxes will be mounted to the back panels of the wheel wells. The wheel hubs will be quite a bit apart from each other as I plan to cut 36" diameter logs.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2559.JPG
    DSCF2559.JPG
    139.8 KB · Views: 70
  • DSCF2558.JPG
    DSCF2558.JPG
    168.8 KB · Views: 75
  • DSCF2557.JPG
    DSCF2557.JPG
    162.8 KB · Views: 65

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Just finished welding the fenders to the wheel well back plates and drilled all the holes for mounting the axle flange bearing boxes in place.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2562.JPG
    DSCF2562.JPG
    127.9 KB · Views: 39
  • DSCF2561.JPG
    DSCF2561.JPG
    127.3 KB · Views: 41
  • DSCF2560.JPG
    DSCF2560.JPG
    131.3 KB · Views: 37

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Well guy's it's been a while since I posted an update and not allot of headway thus far. I have done more work to the wheel wells, joined them together and beefed them up in the rear middle section. Now starting to build the engine support and bracing for the blade tensioner adjustment assembly. Also in the photos you see two frames, the one the wheel well is hanging off of is going to be the sawmill frame. The front frame will be cut up to build log supports and what ever else I see the need for. The wheel well is just hanging on the back of the frame to make it easy to build onto but when ready will be mounted to the front of the frame with pipe to slide up and down on with leadscrew support. Thanks for looking.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2614.JPG
    DSCF2614.JPG
    120.2 KB · Views: 61
  • DSCF2615.JPG
    DSCF2615.JPG
    114.1 KB · Views: 62
  • DSCF2616.JPG
    DSCF2616.JPG
    144.8 KB · Views: 61
  • DSCF2617.JPG
    DSCF2617.JPG
    150.7 KB · Views: 52

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Thanks stump shot, yea I've been busy making parts for the saw recently but for a while there it was just to hot to do much on it. Now the weather seems to be cooling off a bit, I'm gearing up to work on it quite allot. Also been troubleshooting and repairing my welding machine, almost have it ready to use again. I really hope to have this sawmill in operation by the end of December. I also recently scored the complete I beam frame from a mobile home, this will serve as the trailer base to run the saw along, of course with some modification. Here is a video of me repairing my welding machine, had to make the crimp bushings. Have a good one and I'll be posting soon.
 

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Made some progress repairing the control board. Replaced the IC’s TL494CN location U1, LM324N location U2, LM317T location U3, TIP122 location Q6, 2N6668 location U8, 2N6292 location U9. Also made some modifications to the board. In case any of these IC’s go bad again I will not have to unsolder and resolder components as I soldered in plugs for U1, U2 and U8. U8 also soldered in a leaded plug and installed another heat sink as I suspected It could have been overheating a bit. I might even install a little 24volt fan to blow on the board to keep it cool. Well hope this will help others with the same problems.

Above was way last week or so.

Today I got my mig welder up and running. Wire feed works great now. After all the electronic components I had replaced, about 16 in all, I still had a problem with the wire feed stopping after about 12” of weld from a cold start. Took the feed motor off, tore it down, found nothing wrong, greased it and put it all back together. It really acted like something was overheating and breaking down, opening the 24 volt circuit. After welding about 12”, I could release and pull the trigger on the gun, the wire feed would start for a second then stop, spit and sputter. So I started checking other items besides the board, what the 24 volt transformer power was going through before it went to the board. Started lightly wiggling wires, all of a sudden one side of the thermal disk broke off, disk is between the two SCR’s mounted to the aluminum plate, this was breaking down and opening the circuit-24 volts to the board. Well I happened to have some disks from past work I have done, drilled out the rivets on the old disk, installed the new one with screws, plugged the wires into it, fired up the welder again, I welded 3 different paths of 12” long welds with no problems, so all the time and effort finally paid off. I now have a good welder that was given to me as they said it was junk. There was quite allot wrong with it. The transformer aluminum leads were melted off at their connections when I first received this machine, so I had to pull the transformer out, cut the melted parts off, there was still enough aluminum lead wire to reconnect them. Took a steel bar and hammer, flattened out the leads, drilled holes in them, reinstalled the transformer and reconnected the repaired leads. It did work and worked well to my surprise. So it took allot of enginuity to get this one going again. Well now I can start welding up the railbed for the sawmill.A240572A-A18B-43FE-B2BB-781BC21EF4A6.jpeg9A48C1F9-021C-441D-A6AA-499367CC326B.jpeg F510E6D8-1AEF-4BE7-878E-CEB7C3894D27.jpeg
 

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Well it has one moving air across the SCR's and transformers. You can see the white fan blade in the photo. I think the board is alright now. Thanks Lightening.
 

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Hello everyone. Just aquired an 18 HP Kohler two cylinder electric start engine from a Cub Cadet riding lawn mower. It is equipped with an electric clutch and a built in alternator. The mower was given to me and the trans was bad on it, so I junked it out and kept the engine for my saw mill. With this engine and clutch I'll have less moving parts, it will simplify the build and even though I had already bought a new engine for this purpose, it did not come/have an alternator or clutch, now I can use it for a log spliter I have in mind to build. So I consider this a real plus and it will also cut down on labor to build the sawmill.
 

Al Smith

Here For The Long Haul!
Local time
8:16 AM
User ID
537
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
6,095
Reaction score
13,457
Location
North western Ohio
Country flag
As a suggestion if you can find a finned aluminum heat shield from perhaps an industrial application that control board will dissipate more heat than from just a fan .Periodically I have access to same from discarded electronic solid state control components .
 

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Thanks AL, I did install another heat sink, I mounted it to the side of the original with two small screws. You can see it in the photo above and it’s all working great. No welding problems anymore.
 

J & L Creations

Machine Design
Local time
7:16 AM
User ID
1100
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
264
Reaction score
646
Location
Texas
Man, I started this second mill in March 2017 and now here it is January 2018. Time sure does fly. Didn’t get any thing done of what I wanted to in November and December, things just kept getting in the way. So now I’ve Gotten started again on my band sawmill project. Worked the last few days setting up and mount welding the pipe slides and wheel well frame together, then mounted the wheel well assembly to the frame. More photos here.
294DCA4B-0FAC-4065-8AC0-89D597C4142F.jpeg EA47BCED-EF9D-4695-8304-D8B02D9597A4.jpeg 09993EF6-9FC8-4E48-A222-D987700B0C3A.jpeg FB2924F4-7D12-44C2-AFB4-1A3EF81DDE56.jpeg 7C9A6A24-EA0B-4873-A09B-CAD2493B7188.jpeg
 
Top