More 562 Problems...

[ZukiRyder400]

So today, I got into my 562 to see why it was running so lean, come to figure out my thinner base gasket that I made didn’t seal correctly at the intake side because the base wasn’t completely flush with the cases . So luckily I had a spare cylinder and had gasket sheets that were the same exact width as the stock one. So as I was getting it back together I notice that the other junk 562 has 6 screw cases. Checked the main bearings, and rod bearings and all felt good. So I swapped all of the good parts to the 6 screw cases, added some more oil to the gas and started er up. Ran real rich because of the oil that I put in the cylinder upon installation and the extra oil I put in the gas. I shut it down and try to start it back up but I shear the flywheel key. So I took off the recoil, indexed it and gorilla tightened it down( didn’t advance/retard the timing). So I got everything put back together, tried to pull it over and the handle just snaps out of my hand like it had 200lbs of compression. Pulled it over nice and slow and it felt worlds easier but when I tried to give it the gusto, it backfires almost but it wasn’t gunshot loud but it was a big poof. I said “What the H word?” and I saw smoke coming from the muffler. And I took off the top cover and the air filter and there was exhaust smoke coming from the intake as well. Took the spark plug out just to make sure there wasn't a fire in the cylinder. This is very strange to me any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

Sorry for the book lol

 

[andyshine77]

Sounds like you had too much residual oil in the saw, also sounds like the flywheel timing is way off.

Lowering the cylinder on the 562 requires some clearancing of the case and if you go far enough the cylinder.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

Sounds like you had too much residual oil in the saw, also sounds like the flywheel timing is way off.

Lowering the cylinder on the 562 requires some clearancing of the case and if you go far enough the cylinder.

Thank you!! And instead of running a thinner gasket I put the stocker back in along with a cylinder that hasn’t been ported. Again thank you!!

 

[whitesnake]

Sounds like timing is off.

 

[RI Chevy]

Austin, hook up with Mason in a PM. He'll get you back running.

 

[Mastermind]

Austin, hook up with Mason in a PM. He'll get you back running.

In a PM?

Why would you advocate that?

Would it not be better to post such solutions in the open format so others can learn from this issue?

 

[RI Chevy]

Yes sir.

 

[RI Chevy]

@huskyboy Maybe you could give a little guidance to Austin.
OR, Austin could always bring it to the CT GTG Hooskie FIX IT table. Fit right in there with all the broken Hooskies.

Ding, ding....

 

[Mastermind]

For the record.....the flywheel is in the wrong location on the crank.

You mentioned having more than one bottom end. Do you not have a flywheel that still has the key?

If not....mark the position of where the key was in the flywheel. Sometimes it's tough to see after one slips. Then mark the crank. You can use a marker. You need a positive stop for the piston too. I use a rope. All this is sorta tricky, but the idea is to see where the flywheel needs to be while the crank is locked down against the piston stop. Be careful, and you can get it just right.

Also, degrease the flywheel bore, and the crank really well, and make sure there is no leftover debris on either that will interfere with the taper locking.

 

[huskyboy]

Solid advice already given in this thread. I agree with what was already said. Most likely flywheel timing or a coil problem.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks for helping Austin while I’ve been at work gents.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

Thanks for all the help guys! Really appreciate it.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

I finally got her back together and it fired in 3 pulls and fast idles in 1 pull. Took it down to do some cutting, no lean bogging, popping in the cut or nothing but ever once in a while there would be an off idle stumble but that is the EL46. Did a base gasket delete. Squish came in at .019”.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

And I doubt you guys will like what I did to make the piston not hit the chamber...

 

[Mastermind]

And I doubt you guys will like what I did to make the piston not hit the chamber...

Tell us Austin !!!!!! Spill it !!!!

 

[ZukiRyder400]

For the record.....the flywheel is in the wrong location on the crank.

You mentioned having more than one bottom end. Do you not have a flywheel that still has the key?

If not....mark the position of where the key was in the flywheel. Sometimes it's tough to see after one slips. Then mark the crank. You can use a marker. You need a positive stop for the piston too. I use a rope. All this is sorta tricky, but the idea is to see where the flywheel needs to be while the crank is locked down against the piston stop. Be careful, and you can get it just right.

Also, degrease the flywheel bore, and the crank really well, and make sure there is no leftover debris on either that will interfere with the taper locking.

Both flywheel keys where sheared unfortunately. But I got it timed correctly and it runs good!!

 

[ZukiRyder400]

Tell us Austin !!!!!! Spill it !!!!

I shaved the top of the piston.....

 

[ZukiRyder400]

With a belt sander.... Yup... a belt sander

 

[ZukiRyder400]

And I did re chamfer the top of the piston