Milling questions from a newbie

[Mycamaro_68]

Hey fellas, I've got a couple questions for ya. I'm looking to try my hand at some milling. What I want to try first is to make a couple live edge cedar benches. I am wanting to have the seat and the back to be around 16" wide slabs, so my question would be, can I use a 16" log and mill it dead center first and then set my thickness off of that or do I need to use a larger log to stay away from the very center of the log?

Next, is there a certain type of paint that is better to use when painting the ends of the log? Water based? Oil based? Also, if you guys have any tips you want to share I would greatly appreciate it. I have read pretty much all the threads here but I am always looking to learn more. Thanks in advance!

 

[Stump Shot]

Probably get as many answers as there are people here on how to cut, no real wrong way, depends on what you want to get out of it. I've personally never cut a log in half and then went at each half, always laid out on the ends what I wanted then cut from to on down. Just remember to take into account your kerf, for me chainsawing was 1/4" and the band mill is 1/16", just measure it first those are just for example.
No matter what type paint you use I cut my logs 8" longer than what the finished product will be.
Best tip I have is milling can be very fun and rewarding, or if you let others steer you can be just a job, my advice keep it fun.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Never really thought of the question you posed.

If the heart is dead perfect you could mill tree dead through the heart and the kerf would take out most of the heart.

As for painting ends, something that will move with the timber, if paint something latex based.

 

[Mycamaro_68]

Thanks guys! The only reason I was conserned about milling directly through the heart was if I would end up with more warping and/or splitting through the center. I would more than likely lay out my cut lines and just mill from the top down, I just didn't know a better way to explain what I was asking. Keep the comments and tips/tricks coming!

 

[Stump Shot]

I guess it would depend if you end up with heartwood on both sides of the board/plank or just one side for cupping.
Sometimes the log you actually have at hand will let you know more about what you can get out of it than anything. Some have large heart wood some small, some solid some rotted etc.. The straighter the log usually the straighter the board. I usually put curved logs hump up in the mill that way the board warps on the flat side which is easier to correct when working with it later.(So it warps like a ski and not like a C.)
Mostly when doing lumber I just keep cutting and sort it out later, kinda crude, I know, but everything gets used for one thing if not for another.
Nothing better though than seeing the face of the cuts you just made. It's kinda like seeing a sunset, you've seen it before, but not just quite like the last one.

 

[Mycamaro_68]

So just to make sure I am understanding, it would not be wise to have heart wood through the entire thickness of a slab?

 

[junkman]

It will be stable if cut through the heart if the heart is centered in the log ,i have milled logs with offset heart and the boards warped on me ,what kind of mill are you using ? alaska type slab mill ? and what are you using for starter cut ? a ladder or a board ?

 

[Mycamaro_68]

It will be stable if cut through the heart if the heart is centered in the log ,i have milled logs with offset heart and the boards warped on me ,what kind of mill are you using ? alaska type slab mill ? and what are you using for starter cut ? a ladder or a board ?

Yea my plan is to build an Alaskan type mill (nothing too fancy just to get my feet wet before I go and spend a bunch of money) and I like the idea of plates for the end of the log to rest a ladder in and shims in the middle of the ladder.

 

[junkman]

As long as you measure from the ladder to the heart center on both ends ,and shim the ladder as needed ,should be able to rip right down the middle ,i have seen benches ripped from doug fir in the national parks ,look pretty cool .

 

[Mycamaro_68]

These are similar to what I had in mind.

 

[junkman]

These are similar to what I had in mind.View attachment 26931 View attachment 26932

If doing 3 inch slabs like that ,take a pencil and a square and mark the log where want the center cut .,measure 3/8 above the pencil line and make another mark for the chain width ,then mark at 3 inches ,then 3/8 ,then 3 inches ,make your first cut at that point ,then set the alaska slab mill at 3 inches and cut one after another ,you get most out of the wood drawing on the end of the log

 

[Shawn Curry]

Some great advice here so far. I'll just add a couple things.

I almost always saw my logs in half first these days. I used to do a bunch of layout on the ends (I still mark H and V lines through center at both ends), but I'd never figure the kerf just right and I'd have to make an adjustment to the mill if I wanted to hit dead center when I got there. If you saw the log in half first, you don't need to figure for kerf allowance at all. Just set the mill to desired slab thickness and saw away.

If you're not able to waste all of the heart, and it does cup or split as it dries, it's actually not too big of a deal. You can resaw the slab in half through the center again on a tablesaw or bandsaw, and then joint the edges and glue it back together.

If you were planning to use it green (you shouldn't), I'd stay away from center cuts. And you need to allow for movement due to shrinkage.

Good luck! It's fun.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

I usually put curved logs hump up in the mill that way the board warps on the flat side which is easier to correct when working with it later.

This is also a great way of getting a slab or 2 with completely natural edges on them

 

[Guido Salvage]

I have only ever cut on a circular mill and a band saw. I always took of a slab, rolled the log and repeated to get a square can't. On a circular mill the ledger factors in the jerk. Once you have the can't you can slice it how you want.

 

[Stump Shot]

Back when I was still chainsaw milling I had a mini-mill to complement the Alaskan. I would take a slab off with the Alaskan, setup the mini-mill and edge the sides off, then go back to the Alaskan and cut whatever board thickness I had set until it runs out of log. Never rolled or touched the log doing it in that fashion. had to have another saw though, to keep everything set up and easy.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

I have a bandsaw and a few different chainsaw mills. A lot of people laugh when they ask if I have a Lucas mill and I say no, would rather mill with a chainsaw. There is a certain flexibility that lumber making with a saw will get you. Not to mention can mill over 1.5 wide timber.. But I specialize in craft wood timber not structural.

What has impressed me the most for precision chainsaw milling is the logosol system though.

http://www.logosol.us/sawmills/big-mill-system/big-mill-basic.html

It is a pity that it has a larger upfront cost than an Alaskan, presume this puts a lot of people off as it doesn't make good fiscal sense for only something that is a hobby.

Mycamaro_68 - you can make a neat little Alaskan style mill out of timber if you drill mounting holes in your bar.

 

[Mycamaro_68]

I have a bandsaw and a few different chainsaw mills. A lot of people laugh when they ask if I have a Lucas mill and I say no, would rather mill with a chainsaw. There is a certain flexibility that lumber making with a saw will get you. Not to mention can mill over 1.5 wide timber.. But I specialize in craft wood timber not structural.

What has impressed me the most for precision chainsaw milling is the logosol system though.

http://www.logosol.us/sawmills/big-mill-system/big-mill-basic.html

It is a pity that it has a larger upfront cost than an Alaskan, presume this puts a lot of people off as it doesn't make good fiscal sense for only something that is a hobby.

Mycamaro_68 - you can make a neat little Alaskan style mill out of timber if you drill mounting holes in your bar.

That's actually exactly how I was going to make it. Drill holes in the bar and use spacers to adjust the mill height. I have a 32" GB bar so I figure I should be able to get close a 24" wide slab with a set up like that. That should give me the chance to have some fun with this and then I can justify spending the money on a bigger saw and a bigger mill. Or say hell with it and buy a bandsaw mill!

 

[Shawn Curry]

So... Sharpening... Got a 32" ripping chain yet? That can be fun.

I actually see that as an advantage of the CSM - I can sharpen it. With some practice and a good chain, I can achieve nearly as good of a finish with the granberg as I get from my vertical bandsaw.

 

[Mycamaro_68]

So... Sharpening... Got a 32" ripping chain yet? That can be fun.

I actually see that as an advantage of the CSM - I can sharpen it. With some practice and a good chain, I can achieve nearly as good of a finish with the granberg as I get from my vertical bandsaw.

View attachment 26987

No as of right now I don't have a ripping chain. I plan to gradually sharpen my chain to 10° top plate.

 

[Terry Hennessy]

Probably get as many answers as there are people here on how to cut, no real wrong way, depends on what you want to get out of it. I've personally never cut a log in half and then went at each half, always laid out on the ends what I wanted then cut from to on down. Just remember to take into account your kerf, for me chainsawing was 1/4" and the band mill is 1/16", just measure it first those are just for example.
No matter what type paint you use I cut my logs 8" longer than what the finished product will be.
Best tip I have is milling can be very fun and rewarding, or if you let others steer you can be just a job, my advice keep it fun.

Is the band mill kerf really a 1/16, or is it 1/8" because of the opposing offset tooth tips?