Makita 6100 advise

[Greenerpastures]

Hello again everyone.

I need your opinions regarding
the correct mix and carb adjustment on a Makita 6100

This saw is Stratafied, it has a reed vavle,
this concerns me in regard to keeping it as
clean as possible, and the only way to do this is to use
the correct mix ratio and tune it to run right.

So what mix would you all reccommend, 40:1 or 50:1,
50:1 is specified, its a new saw, and I want to ensure it
gets enough lube.

Carburettor,
Does anyone know if the carb on this saw has restrictors
fitted, to one or both needles.
If so, then has anyone any advise on removing them.
Or do these saws normally come with enough headroom
in the restrictor to allow safe adjustment, to keep her rich enough.

Carburettor adjustment,
This saw according to the spec sheet runs 13,800 max rpm with bar and chain on.
Would I be better to use a tachometer, and adjust the H to between 13,200 and 13,300
for the run in period.
Are my mumbers ok or would you all reccomed a lower rpm setting,
keeping in mind am trying to keep her clean so as not to clog
the reed with uny neccessary oily residue.

I look forward to your opinions, and thank you for them.

Kind Regards, john

 

[Wilhelm]

There is nothing that should be able to "dirty" the reed valves, don't worry about that!

The 6100's coil maxes out at 13800rpm.
For break in I would tune her a little fat, about 13k but no more than 13.5k, and I would use a bit more oil in my mix (40:1 sounds good).

The most important thing is to use quality oil from the get go.
I don't know what is available in Your area, and others will have their own opinion, but so far I liked Makita 2-stroke oil the most.

Let the engine warm up before You put load on the saw, let the engine idle a little bit before You shut the saw off.
Don't be afraid to put high load on Your 6100, just give her a breather at idle between cuts.

That's what I got out of OPE and AS.

I apologise if I'm wrong with anything I posted!

 

[Greenerpastures]

Hi Wilhelm, thanks for the advise.

I contacted ajschainsaws, and he set the saw up before sending it out.
So am content knowing this, I just posted in case the man was busy,
I just didn't expect but still got a quick response from ajschainsaws.

I will be looking into fully synthetic for this saw, simply because I have
seen the inside of another similar saw, that was set up by
ajschainsaws, and it is spotless, and was recommended to use synthetic.

If anyone is looking for a saw, this man has bent over backwards to set
me up with mine, I never dealt with such a genuine man in all my time.
It would actually be impossible to do better.

Thanks for posting Wilhalm, and thanks to ajschainsaws.

 

[CoreyB]

The 6100 takes a while to break in. Learning how to tune will be a plus. I run a tach on mine and tune between 13 200 and 13,500. I run a mix of about 43:1 but have ran 50:1 to 40:1 and can't till a whole lot of diff. The 6100 can be a bit challenging to tune so having a good friend help would be nice. If all else fails post a vid and ask for help.

 

[Greenerpastures]

The 6100 takes a while to break in. Learning how to tune will be a plus. I run a tach on mine and tune between 13 200 and 13,500. I run a mix of about 43:1 but have ran 50:1 to 40:1 and can't till a whole lot of diff. The 6100 can be a bit challenging to tune so having a good friend help would be nice. If all else fails post a vid and ask for help.

I have an issue with my CS 501, maybe you could take a look
at this thread and comment. http://opeforum.com/threads/what-oil-is-best-and-what-ratio.98/page-609
Thank's, john

 

[CoreyB]

I have an issue with my CS 501, maybe you could take a look
at this thread and comment. http://opeforum.com/threads/what-oil-is-best-and-what-ratio.98/page-609
Thank's, john

Do you absolutely trust your tach? Learning by ear may be a challenge but I find after you learn to tune by ear it is more accurate then the average tach.

 

[Greenerpastures]

I do not know how the tach is regarding accuracy.
That is why I richened up the engine to get it four stroking a little.
I can get the CS 501 to run much faster, I just wanted to stay in the
safe zone close to four stroking, thus I have only 10800 rpm.
The Tach worked well on the 7900, again I had to get if four stroking,
but that was because the coil was cutting her at 220 rpm above where
she is now set, and she will gain that 220 as she loosens up, so am happy
with the 7900.

The CS attempts to srart on the second pull with the choke on, it did not
do this before, in fact two to three and she would just about change tune,
but it took a further three pulls atleast after the choke was off to start her.
If I lean the low to keep her from attempting to start on choke,
then she will bog, she already bogs a little when cold,
ten or 15 seconds after starting and and no bog.
Or hold the throttle well open and she will stop bogging sooner,
but I dont like pinning the throttle like that, so I wait ten seconds or so
and she is fine.

Any ideas, she bogged the exact same when I got her, she is new,
but she never attempted to start on the choke.
I can remove the bog to make her jump off the start line,
and I hope this extra fuel will kill the engine when the choke
is on during initial cold start, this will eliminate the chance she
is starting too lean on the low needle.
Basically when the choke is knocked off, she bogs slightly under throttle,
it should be lack of fuel which goes the other way when she is choked,
so much for the low needle being set right from the supplier.
She will get better real quick if the throttle is pulled right back and from
then on is fine, so she is not far away.
I think leaning out the H gave me 140 rpm more than the saw came set,
probably has caused the L to also become slightly leaner, as she was bogging
/ lean much the same when I got her.
Will rich up the low, and lean out the H a tad, this should get me higher up
in the revs and still keep me four stroking.
Time to retune.

Thanks, john

 

[Greenerpastures]

Just and update for anyone with a CS-501.
This is an easy to tune saw, once you know it
can take a broad range of tune.
Anyone used tuning by ear will find it strange,
it will not four stroke much above 10800 out of wood,
It has the faintest hint of ok all the way to
at least 12000, in that it does not sound lean
but no fours troking either.
I stopped listening at 12000 as Im not going there
especially as it fourstrokes perfectly at 10800.

Regarding the low end, I was playing safe,
added too much fuel, this obviousely caused
her to be a small bit rich when the choke is on.
All I had to do was lean her out on the low,
and in that regard, it is easier to lean her out
by first getting her to start from cold on two choke pulls and two after that.
Then adjust the idle as she heats up, set to 2700.

This leave the low in good shape, she will race
up no problem, in my case to the 10800 mark,
and way beyond, this saw never hit the rev limiter
with me.
I have no doubt I will be leaning her out a good bit
as according to the specs her max is 13700,
and there is the main problem, you will need a tach
as there is no sign of fourstroking or lean up there
to guide you, don't know where coinl cuts, or even
if it does, so a tach is best for the high side on this saw.

This CS 501 runs like my Shindaiwa 490 regarding how cool she stays, and I do not see that changing with higher RPM, I had her to 12000 on the tach and she was cool, now am saying she will stay cool ran at high
rpm continousely, but at her work, she certainly looks
like she will run cool.

I got around to the 6100 today.
Started her from cold, on the settings I left her on the
evening before, 1.75 pulls on choke and she blipped,
off with choke and two more pulls starts her.
All is good, good acceleration all the way up to the
12700 mark, and beyond if so desired.
Stop her after she starts, and she fires right up
as expected without choke.
Only trouble with her at the high setting is she keeps
loosing it, does not give the exact same tach reading
each time, and if I throttle her right she will keep at
around the 12700 mark.
If you hold her a tad too long she will then stop at
13200, a little odd, but not concerning as I will tune
her in the wood, she is definately not lean though.
She seems to be actually doing the leaning herself,
as in she will rev to 12700, then a second later
will jump to 13200, which of course in the cut would
be ok as she would find it a lot harder to actually
perform this act.
I hope this is normal, though I have not seen it before.

And there ends my evenings rant, hope it is of some
help to owners of similar saws.

Regards, john