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WANTED Looking for a ported 56mm cylinder for a MS660

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Cooper264

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I have done quite a few ms660 clone builds and I'm interested in learning how to do my own port work. I just started messing with squish and that seems to be going well. Next step is porting and timing. If anyone has any helpful tips or an already ported cylinder that I could purchase to use as a guide, It would be very appreciated
 

MustangMike

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Welcome to the site.

Learning porting on the Asian clones is the low cost way to do it and is what I did.

There are lot of threads and videos on this site by the pros that will let you learn a lot.

There are a lot of different levels of porting. The real pros have metal lathes and right angle grinders that I do not have.

That said, I made my own timing wheel (printed it off the net), put it on cardboard and attached it to the saw.

HF has some low cost imitation Dremel's that can be used for intake and exhaust ports.

Do a lot of research, and when you start grinding go slow and easy. It takes a bit to get used to, including the rotation of the bit. I view is as more like sketching that drawing if you know what I mean.

Often the largest gains come from correctly locating and widening the exhaust, and lowering the intake.
 

MustangMike

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I will add that my strongest 660s are not my ported big bore. While that one runs VG, some of the stock bore size ones are stronger.
 
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Cooper264

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I will add that my strongest 660s are not my ported big bore. What that one runs VG, some of the stock bore size ones are stronger.
Thanks for the feedback. For starters I think im going to try smoothing out the intakes the best I can and see how it goes
 

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I have 2 white box big bores with nikasil type plating. Just by looking at them, there is little hope for fixing how bad they are. The ports aren't ugly, they are just all wrong with not enough room to get a lot more performance. Also stay away from Hyway, their plating is difficult to work with, and you could end up chasing mistakes as it flakes off. Farmertec aluminum cuts well, and their thinner plating isn't so bad to work with, and some white box chrome cylinders are pretty easy.
 

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I have 2 white box big bores with nikasil type plating. Just by looking at them, there is little hope for fixing how bad they are. The ports aren't ugly, they are just all wrong with not enough room to get a lot more performance. Also stay away from Hyway, their plating is difficult to work with, and you could end up chasing mistakes as it flakes off. Farmertec aluminum cuts well, and their thinner plating isn't so bad to work with, and some white box chrome cylinders are pretty easy.
I'd say just the opposite
 

Cooper264

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I have 2 white box big bores with nikasil type plating. Just by looking at them, there is little hope for fixing how bad they are. The ports aren't ugly, they are just all wrong with not enough room to get a lot more performance. Also stay away from Hyway, their plating is difficult to work with, and you could end up chasing mistakes as it flakes off. Farmertec aluminum cuts well, and their thinner plating isn't so bad to work with, and some white box chrome cylinders are pretty easy.
I think I'm going to start with the farmertec. From what i've heard they are a little more forgiving to work with than most. Plus they are a dime a dozen. Ive read a little bit about timing on cylinders and I was wondering if the timing is different for every single cylinder or if its just different brands or just different gasket sizes
 

Nutball

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I've only seen 2 FT 660 cylinders, and they were different versions, but they both had an exhaust of 94, transfers about 30deg lower, and the piston would hit the head if the gasket wasn't used, so that seems pretty consistent numbers wise, they intentionally raised the intake on the newer one. The flaws can be highly variable.
 

Cooper264

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I've only seen 2 FT 660 cylinders, and they were different versions, but they both had an exhaust of 94, transfers about 30deg lower, and the piston would hit the head if the gasket wasn't used, so that seems pretty consistent numbers wise, they intentionally raised the intake on the newer one. The flaws can be highly variable.
The newer ones they are putting out are definitly alot better than the ones from years past. But they still have alot of grit in the ports. Thats mainly what I'm going to try and get out. Ive been building the kits for a few years now and I can definitely tell alot of quality difference.
Iv'e only checked squish on the last one I built, I was able to switch to a thinner paper gasket to cut it down a little. The more I look into this timing stuff the more I realize I need to learn
 

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I won't say they are all different, but there are a lot of variations in timing #s even with OEM cylinders. It is part of the reason the builders get so much work.

I think newer saws (both OEM and AM) may be more consistent, but older stuff is all over the place.

Usually, a piston will wear out way before a cylinder, so upgrading to a good piston (like Meteor) makes a lot of sense to me.

Usually the first thing to wear out is the intake side skirt. Once it starts not sealing, you will loose a lot of performance.

That is part of the reason most cylinders are conservative with their porting width of intake and exhaust, and why it is important to run good 2 cycle oil and a good ratio with ported saws.

I will never say that anything is "the best", but Amsoil Saber at 40:1 give me very good results, so that is what I stick with.
 

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I've only ever seen one, and it looked very good, like it was a copy of a good OEM or a ported OEM cylinder with QC along the way to make sure the casting comes out properly. Plenty of air can flow through the fins, upper transfers are big and smooth, but still have some little bumps here and there. It comes across to me as OEM or close to it in quality/appearance. Mine did have some dings in the plating though.
 
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