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Knuckle saving bucking spikes - another Dolmar win

davidwyby

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So...felling dogs/spikes are oversized for felling, and have the large lower spike that also functions as a kick stand. Maybe I has the dum and my technique is trash, but I find myself wanting a big spike at the top to keep the brake and my knuckles out of the log when bucking and the saw gets below the apex of the curve of the log...thoughts?
 

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I like a big top spike. It makes cutting on the top of the bar less strenuous.
 

Woodslasher

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So...felling dogs/spikes are oversized for felling, and have the large lower spike that also functions as a kick stand. Maybe I has the dum and my technique is trash, but I find myself wanting a big spike at the top to keep the brake and my knuckles out of the log when bucking and the saw gets below the apex of the curve of the log...thoughts?
What saws do you encounter that problem on? Off of the top of my head I can't say I recall experiencing that problem before, but then again I can't remember what I did 3 days ago either. Except for your smaller j-red and dolmars I have access to the same saws you run so I can test stuff out. Worst case scenario you make some biggerer dogs, which should be easier for you than it's been for me.
 

davidwyby

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What saws do you encounter that problem on? Off of the top of my head I can't say I recall experiencing that problem before, but then again I can't remember what I did 3 days ago either. Except for your smaller j-red and dolmars I have access to the same saws you run so I can test stuff out. Worst case scenario you make some biggerer dogs, which should be easier for you than it's been for me.
Just ask ;-)
 

davidwyby

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Seems like I've run into it with most of my saws...maybe more like 60-70 cc and up. Maybe mainly the 3120 bucking 42". Kinda depends on the shape of the log. I get all kinds of odd shapes. It's worst with an egg shaped log, cutting on the "point" of the egg, or rather below it.
 

davidwyby

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Seems like it has more to do with the log than the saw. This saw also has small dogs, haven't installed the larger ones yet. I don't have vid but I know I've run into it with big euc and the 3120.


 

Woodslasher

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Seems like it has more to do with the log than the saw. This saw also has small dogs, haven't installed the larger ones yet. I don't have vid but I know I've run into it with big euc and the 3120.


In those it looks like it's due to the funky j-red handle position. Now that I've mulled it over, I have run in to that before. When that happens I just pull the saw back and use the bar tip. The wood you're dealing with is quite different from the round pine/fir logs I'm usually dealing with. I've gotta freehand mill a big egg-shaped cedar log sooner rather than later, I'll drag a few saws with a few different dog patterns down there and see which are better/worse on it and report back.
 

rogue60

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According to the internet's the dog's should never touch the log bucking ever! Lol
It's normal for the brake handle to squash ya hand if you are right up against the log and the log has size to it doing the bottom under side half of the cut and using the dog's and trying to get reach with the bar.
Careful when finishing the cut like that always pull the saw back off the log near the end of the cut (as you did in your vids) if the log moves or drops bad things will happen to the front of the saw lol

Longer dog's would defiantly help keep the saw away from the log giving more room for ya hand especially the top two spikes in scenarios as you have been experiencing.
Usually myself I just hold the side of the handle so the brake handle doesn't crush my hand and move my body more to the side out of the way in case the saw does jump climb out of the cut.
 

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I installed these (2nd pic down) four years ago on a Stihl MS 661c that needed to be rebuilt after an employee ran over it with a pickup truck. I rebuilt the saw with these spikes on board. The saw's owner, a professional logger, has never complained.
Stihl MS 661 C Repaired.jpg
 

Maintenance Chief

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According to the internet's the dog's should never touch the log bucking ever! Lol
It's normal for the brake handle to squash ya hand if you are right up against the log and the log has size to it doing the bottom under side half of the cut and using the dog's and trying to get reach with the bar.
Careful when finishing the cut like that always pull the saw back off the log near the end of the cut (as you did in your vids) if the log moves or drops bad things will happen to the front of the saw lol

Longer dog's would defiantly help keep the saw away from the log giving more room for ya hand especially the top two spikes in scenarios as you have been experiencing.
Usually myself I just hold the side of the handle so the brake handle doesn't crush my hand and move my body more to the side out of the way in case the saw does jump climb out of the cut.

Yeah I get the ported hot saw cookie cutter with no dawgs touching the log, but when I'm actually cutting (as in work) I like to sink and swing that saw . That would require that said saw be the correct saw for the job though as in enough torque to pull a B&C with a pulled handle.
 

davidwyby

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Yeah I get the ported hot saw cookie cutter with no dawgs touching the log, but when I'm actually cutting (as in work) I like to sink and swing that saw . That would require that said saw be the correct saw for the job though as in enough torque to pull a B&C with a pulled handle.
3120 42” raisman semi in rock hard wood...I need to play/learn how aggressive I can get with it to try to get it to self feed more without having to dog so much.
 

davidwyby

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So after tree work this weekend I think Dolmar really is on to something with the crescent spike. The long spikes I recently put on the 2159 (357xp) make it too easy to stall. They might come off. Too much leverage on the power head end. Ended up going more aggressive on the chain and leaving the spikes out of it. Was using it in the bucket on 6-18” limbs, 20” bar, green cottonwood and then dry hard oak.
The spikes on the Dolmar are shorter lower in line with the bar so less leverage but arches up and out to keep the knuckles off the log once the saw passes thru the apex.

That 6100 torque impresses me...24” full comp buried felling the oak, almost no stopping it. In small wood the 357 will hang with it, but not bigger stuff. Will be real nice to get the 2166 back from porting as it weighs the same but can run longer bars. Today it was 6100 or 3120 42” for felling...I went light.

...once on the ground the 3120 made firewood in a hurry. Fun. The raisman did good until i hit dirt or something trying to get the log short enough to roll. Switched the chain to full chis after that. What a pain to change the 42” outboard clutch saw in the field...
 
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Woodslasher

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I'd be looking at buying/making a set of these, as they seem to have the forwards tilt you want.
cfe92b34-6d76-4a99-bb20-2434c4cb4b30_1.3b62ef2f0436b45c02728b3e3b5843e5.jpeg
 
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