Husqvarna 540i XP pro battery saw -- chain

[livemusic]

I got a 540i XP pro saw and so far, really like it! I can see how, for firewood, one could use this as his only saw. Has narrow kerf .325, .043 chain -- Husqvarna x-cut SP21G. I note it says "low kickback saw chain."

Does anyone prefer a chain other than this one? If so, why? I am not married to Husky brand, just whatever works best!

I wonder if they make a non low kickback chain for this saw or maybe that is not "needed?" Although, I only got it yesterday and need more time with it and this chain does cut well. I just noticed that it is rather small; I guess it'll hold up, lol. I have trouble filing on any chain and this chain is a bit small.

I got a 16 inch bar on it.

 

[Philbert]

.325 pitch, 0.043 gauge chain is not very common. Another brand I know of is Oregon ‘Nano’ chain:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p...dcut-saw-chain-and-guide-bars/c/speedcut-sc-p

I would not worry about the ‘low kickback’ feature: keep it sharp and focus on how it cuts.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Might get more input in these threads:

https://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-540ixp-and-t540-ixp.22239/

https://opeforum.com/threads/newer-husqvarna-battery-powered-chainsaws.21060/

Philbert

 

[livemusic]

I just wanna make sure this chain is ideal, as I need to buy a couple of extra chains. I have seen some promo material, maybe it was a video and I recall that it was promoted that Husqvarna considers this the ideal bar/chain but I don't always trust a manufacturer's position. The market seems to hold the final verdict. I probably should ask this question six months from now, lol, as these saws are now coming off backorder.

So far, my only complaint is the safety lever built in to the handle; I still haven't gotten the hang of somehow allowing the right palm to press forward, then down. I don't like that part at all so far! I wonder if there is a work around. More time with it and I'll report back!

 

[Duane(Pa)]

If there is any way to go .050 I would definitely do that and never look back. Obviously you need a different bar. .043 is going to be a continuous pain in the ash to find.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Surprisingly the best chains in 0.043 only did well for me on power pole saws. 16" did stretch in oak collars over ten inches. My only gripe about 0.043 chain that was on saws under a two horse power rating.
Now the big problem running 0.043 on a gas saw with mini tips is blowing out the bearing right quick. This shouldn't happen running a low speed motor.
Make your chain aggressive and see how much strength it really has and if starts to stretch out. If it does just switch to 0.050.
The 0.050 Raisman chain is about run out on my 200T chain adjuster by the time you have used up the cutters on a 14" loop. I had to test some of it.
My electric 120V 0.043 lp is getting swapped to narrow kerf 325 or 3/8lp 0.050. The 16" and 18" tiny bars are junk anyway. A 12" or 14" bar will be better imo.

 

[Philbert]

I just wanna make sure this chain is ideal, as I need to buy a couple of extra chains.

If there is any way to go .050 I would definitely do that and never look back.

The 0.043 gauge is part of the narrow kerf design, which is designed to optimize the cutting efficiency of battery powered saws. A wider kerf chain will use more electrons to power it through the wood. These saws, and chains, were designed like the scene in 'Apollo 13', where Gary Sinise is obsessed with squeezing every amp out of the batteries in the space craft simulator.

The .325, low profile pitch was designed to provide a smoother cut than the wider spaced 3/8, low profile chain, on the smaller diameter wood that these saws are primarily intended for. In other words, these chains were specifically designed for optimum performance with these battery powered saws. There is more stuff on that in the Oregon link I posted above.

1/4 pitch chain would be even smoother, and is used on some battery powered chainsaws, but the little teeth seem to have little cutting life, IMO.

On request, I did some side-by-side comparisons with the Oregon Nano chain, and some 3/8, low profile, narrow kerf (Oregon Type 90) chain, on the same corded, electric saws, cutting the same wood. I got very similar cutting performance, based on timed cuts. On those saws, I would probably choose the Type 90 chain, as it is currently more widely available, and the teeth look like I would get more life out of them. But on a battery saw, I would stick to the Nano type chains, unless you actually try something that works better for you.


3/8 low profile teeth -top; .325 Nano teeth - bottom. Closer spacing means smoother cuts in smaller diameter wood.


Oregon .325 Nano, Type 80 chain - top; Oregon .325 Narrow Kerf, Type 95 chain - middle; Oregon 3/8 Low Profile, Type 91 chain -bottom. note the cutter spacing, as well as the relative size / heights of the cutters.

Philbert

 

[Lightning Performance]

His pic explains why I prefer 3/8lp on 16" or 18" bars. I don't agree with the smoother cutting of 325 chain or even 1/4". Chain set up to self feed in that wood usually runs smooth. Pushing on smaller bits to get bite is why the chains like lp feel rough on short bars imo. Never had that problem of it feeling rough unless the chain was dull on my saw.
I am going to run an 18" 325 0.063 on a 65cc chunking saw for removals to add more cutters to the wood and a wider kerf for wedges. Straight trees tend to just stand there or lay back on my bars. Just the opposite of what is being done here with narrow kerf low drag stuffs. Good thread

 

[Lightning Performance]

Oh btw square filed lp 050 anything cuts faster than round filed 043 anything ime. It might take more power but it will cut faster so it does more work over a shorter time.

 

[Philbert]

Oh btw square filed lp 050 anything cuts faster than round filed 043 anything ime.

Why not square filed 0.043? Are there any full chisel versions available (yet)?

Philbert

 

[Spike60]

The Husky SP21 and the Oregon 80TXL are the same chain. It rocks. Best stuff out there IMO for these small saws. Better than any 3/8 LP I've ever run. You can actually bore with this chain. Even though it's .325, they did something to it so that it requires a specific sprocket. Oregon has sprockets available for the T540 and T435; also for the Stihl 201's and such. Not sure about Echo. The thinking being that it is .325, they don't want guys trying to run it on larger saws like the 550M2 and MS261. Of course I'm sure there are some clever folks here that might ignore those rules.

 

[Philbert]

it requires a specific sprocket

This is the sprocket I got, on a corded, electric chainsaw: kind of a different design. Curious if other saws running this chain have something similar?




Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

This is the sprocket I got, on a corded, electric chainsaw: kind of a different design. Curious if other saws running this chain have something similar?

View attachment 280836


Philbert

Dude, get a 12 pin sprocket on that thing ! ! !

It's all about speed, You don't need power/torque.
There is this guy on eBay who has it all figured out, he should be able to set You up.

On topic:
On a specific saw like this I would stick with the B&C setup that came with the saw!

 

[livemusic]

The Husky SP21 and the Oregon 80TXL are the same chain. It rocks. Best stuff out there IMO for these small saws. Better than any 3/8 LP I've ever run. You can actually bore with this chain. Even though it's .325, they did something to it so that it requires a specific sprocket. Oregon has sprockets available for the T540 and T435; also for the Stihl 201's and such. Not sure about Echo. The thinking being that it is .325, they don't want guys trying to run it on larger saws like the 550M2 and MS261. Of course I'm sure there are some clever folks here that might ignore those rules.

You mean that they are, literally, the exact same chain? Does Oregon make Husky's chain?

 

[Cooper264]

Dude, get a 12 pin sprocket on that thing ! ! !

It's all about speed, You don't need power/torque.
There is this guy on eBay who has it all figured out, he should be able to set You up.

On topic:
On a specific saw like this I would stick with the B&C setup that came with the saw!

yea get you one of those piltz racing kits for her. The dogs alone add around 0.75 hp

 

[Lightning Performance]

This is the sprocket I got, on a corded, electric chainsaw: kind of a different design. Curious if other saws running this chain have something similar?

View attachment 280836


Philbert

Tool hazards come with speedy chains is my guess.

Find me some chisel cutter 0.043, please.

 

[Lightning Performance]

You mean that they are, literally, the exact same chain? Does Oregon make Husky's chain?

Yes they do make Husky chain

 

[Woodpecker]

If you absolutely cannot live with the sp21 chain on these you can convert it over to 3/8lp. @Gentleman or any of the fine husky dealers on here should be able to provide the sprocket and bar. However, like @Spike60 said, the sp21 is ideal for these saws. I needed my climbing saw to be able to bore cut so I wrongly thought the sp21 wouldn't be up to the task. My t540i xp didn't perform nearly as well with 3/8lp square ground. I don't think it's a power problem as the unit has that in spades. It's the electronic controller protecting the battery from being pushed too hard.

 

[Philbert]

This is the sprocket I got, on a corded, electric chainsaw: kind of a different design. Curious if other saws running this chain have something similar?

Dude, get a 12 pin sprocket on that thing ! ! !

The most interesting thing about this drive sprocket, is that it does not have 'teeth', like a spur sprocket, and it does not have 'pockets', like a rim sprocket, but is more of a 'scalloped' design.

Not sure what advantages it might have, or what the new design was driven by. I was wondering if folks had seen this style on any other pitch drive sprockets.

Philbert

 

[Woodpecker]

The most interesting thing about this drive sprocket, is that it does not have 'teeth', like a spur sprocket, and it does not have 'pockets', like a rim sprocket, but is more of a 'scalloped' design.

Not sure what advantages it might have, or what the new design was driven by. I was wondering if folks had seen this style on any other pitch drive sprockets.

Philbert

The sprocket on my little Makita 18v battery saw looks a lot like the one you posted. Maybe it has less scavenging of inertial power? Idk the thought process behind it.

Just got back to the shop. Here's a couple shots of the t 540i xp sprocket