Husqvarna 350 tips and tricks - the condensed version (sort of) video

[Mattyo]

Anyone thinking about rebuilding one of these (or buying one) can check this out

 

[Backtroller]

Cool video and very interesting. Makes me consider keeping my eyes open for craigslist 350 353. That's saying a lot since I've only owned one 338xpt. Thanks for posting it.

 

[Mattyo]

The 350's get a bad rap for the first 3 issues I discussed. But....when u get it right it's a kicking saw for not much $$

 

[Backtroller]

I've heard some stories about one of your 350s from drf255 that he ran. Your builds sound impressive to say the least.

 

[Mattyo]

Welp....we will see if lightning strikes more than once at this next gtg. I had 2 350s at the last gtg...one was a 45mm oem cylinder ....the other a hyway 45mm. Everyone liked the hyway. I've got 3 more made to similar spec as the hyway. So I'll have 5x 350's at the next gtg and see which one people like.

 

[David Young]

matt what do you use for numbers

 

[Mattyo]

These saws are all round about 105 124 78

Squish 020... squish band is uncut

They are not exact matches. ..but the attempt was there to make them uniform

 

[David Young]

a little different I like it.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Good vid Matt.

I got switched off to the family of saws the 350 belongs to. I had a 350 that had a faulty oil tank that leaked bad from day 1.

After seeing the things you have been doing with these type of saws it makes me want to pick up a 340-350 and have some fun with it.

 

[Mattyo]

its a nice platform.... very cheap, parts are everywhere, very simple design. I don't like everything about the design, but it works. I can do a full teardown in under an hour. everything on this saw is easily replacable, so its great to tinker with. so far, its ideal bar is 16" ... i'm using the regular husky bar ... .325 050 66dl. #95 oregon chain.

one other point to the vid was that ya gotta pick these saws up cheap... most of them haven't had the clamp changed out, so if it hasn't, it might run fine, but it might not. if a seller hasn't addressed the issues I mentioned, the price needs to go WAY down.

 

[isaaccarlson]

Mattyo, I am currently in the process of porting a 350 with a mahle cylinder and it seems to be a replacement for the original. The saw was put together with clear silicone and no sealant. All the screws were loose enough to remove with my fingers.

I don't know how most guys port these things, but I have seen a lot of guys cutting the bottom of the cylinder bigger between the ears and also gasket matching the top of the case. They also leave the lower piston "ring" in place. What I mean by that is the part that sticks out below the wrist pin. I don't like it there because the air has to go around it and then into the transfers. I remove the "ring" on the piston so the sides are flat. I smooth the corners on the top of the case and don't really mess with the ears on the cylinder. The transfers get opened up and streamlined to maintain velocity and the uppers get widened. The intake and exhaust get taken to 65-70% of cylinder diameter.

My reason for doing it this way is to try to maintain a straight path for the air and to reduce case volume gains. I want the fresh charge to enter the case and end up under the piston, ready to shoot into the transfers. I don't like to remove more metal below the piston than I have to. These are just my views on it and everybody does it differently. This is just my way of doing it.

 

[Mattyo]

Pix?

 

[isaaccarlson]

Working on it...

 

[isaaccarlson]

Ok, here you go. This is still a work in progress. I may end up filling some areas with epoxy to reduce turbulence and improve flow velocity and direction.
This is a Mahle cylinder, so I am assuming it was replaced at some point.
I have not checked or messed with the timing yet. That will be adjusted at the end.
There isn't a whole lot you can do by cutting the squish on this one unless you fill with epoxy and use the piston crown to help with port timing because the piston is still covering a portion of the transfers at bdc. This is part of the reason I might use epoxy and file the piston crown. I might leave the epoxy alone, but it would be fun to see how it can improve things.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I have been comparing the cylinder I have to the one you have and your piston probably doesn't cover the transfer ports the way mine does. My ports start up inside the cylinder and yours start right on the bottom. What cylinder do you have in the vid?

 

[Mattyo]

Your cylinder is either an oem open port 44mm or the sorta open port removable transfer cover 45mm oem. I have a hyway brand cylinder in my 350 video available from HL supply.

 

[Tor R]

I got one 350 bottom end and one 353 jug for awhile ago, thought to put it together soon, apreciate your video Matt
What sealent do you use around the seal rings?

 

[isaaccarlson]

I have the removable transfer covers and it measures out at about 45 mm. I thought the jug said mahle on it because I remember seeing it, but I guess it's just on the piston. Whatever, I don't think the wood will care too much.

 

[Tor R]

Isnt the 45 mm with removable transfer covers 353 jug?
But then, I dont know whatever changes they did on 350 and 353 cylinders and what marked they had

 

[isaaccarlson]

I don't know. From what little I have seen and heard, it seems they interchanged parts at times. I have seen it on other saws that were near change-over years. Mixed parts on one saw and normal parts on another saw. I have seen 3 or 4 different combo's on 350's, so I don't know which jug is supposed to be stock. I just know that this one was taken apart at some point and everything was loose when I got it. This porting should flow real well, and it is super easy to do the transfers with the caps. The whole thing can be done with a dremel and a round end straight burr. I'm loving how easy this one is. I might have to get a mill so I can mill the sides off of cylinders and put covers on them all.