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Husqvarna 3120 Rebuild. Slabbing saw to be.

Callum

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Hi all, though i would share my 3120 build. i have pulled it apart and started to put it back together after a bit of a slap dash build. i am building the saw for reliability and as such it is remaining pretty stock. there are a few things i am doing that i didn't do on my first build such as OEM bearings that have a bevel on the inner race which standard 6203s lack. i am getting the cylinder professionally re honed, and finally taking a lot more care than i did last time i built the saw. The plan is to have it pulling the 42" bar i have acquired. 183585249_1188218591598740_6983177046848037149_n.jpg 184784392_1187666464987286_2748331144034887014_n.jpg
 

kneedeepinsaws

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If your going for reliability I would suggest putting in the green limited coil. The saw will not make power past 9600 in the cut anyways and overreving these saws will kill them. A new crank for these things is crazy money.

I put an unlimited coil in mine cause it sounded cooler for revving, but now I am going to put the green one back in. The saw does nothing but milling so there’s no point in showboating it.
Just my two cents
 

kneedeepinsaws

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Another mod I did that worked really really well for reliability was to use an RTV coating on both sides of the air filter and rub it in with your finger. When dry grease both sides of the filter and install. No fines will pass with the pleated filter this way.

the stock carb at 40:1 seems to be just perfect in summer, it will 4 stroke on and off in the cut. Keeping the saw slightly rich this way but still making power in the cut. If you want it to be richer due to elevation changes or temp go back to 50:1

I really like this saw, it’s just so much money for one of these things my tinkering and showboating days with it are over :)
 

huskyhank

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Mod the carb so you have a high speed air screw. There is a thread here telling exactly how to do it. Then you can tune it to your other mods so it runs right. I’d go with the unlimited coil but tune the saw properly. If you’re milling with the full length of a 42 in the log, you’re not gonna over-rev it. Just keep a good steady load on it where the saw is pulling at normal working rpms. When you let off pressure it should go to a mild burbling 4 stroke sound, then clean up under load.
 

davidwyby

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Another mod I did that worked really really well for reliability was to use an RTV coating on both sides of the air filter and rub it in with your finger. When dry grease both sides of the filter and install. No fines will pass with the pleated filter this way.

the stock carb at 40:1 seems to be just perfect in summer, it will 4 stroke on and off in the cut. Keeping the saw slightly rich this way but still making power in the cut. If you want it to be richer due to elevation changes or temp go back to 50:1

I really like this saw, it’s just so much money for one of these things my tinkering and showboating days with it are over :)


Wouldn’t RTV on the filter element not let it breathe? Or you mean on the sealing areas?
 

Callum

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Another mod I did that worked really really well for reliability was to use an RTV coating on both sides of the air filter and rub it in with your finger. When dry grease both sides of the filter and install. No fines will pass with the pleated filter this way.

the stock carb at 40:1 seems to be just perfect in summer, it will 4 stroke on and off in the cut. Keeping the saw slightly rich this way but still making power in the cut. If you want it to be richer due to elevation changes or temp go back to 50:1

I really like this saw, it’s just so much money for one of these things my tinkering and showboating days with it are over :)
I run the genuine Husqvarna oiled foam filter, it does a much better job of blocking out the fine stuff.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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I run the genuine Husqvarna oiled foam filter, it does a much better job of blocking out the fine stuff.
Yes I forgot all about it! Your absolutely right it is a superior product.
 
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