Husky intake block repair attempt

[davidwyby]

Block from a parts saw got a little melty. Think it will seal without the raised sealing ridges after I resurfaced it? Or will it need some help from Mr. MotoSeal?

 

[Woodslasher]

I'd use some Copper Coat, personally, but if you're a Motoseal man I'd say use that.

 

[davidwyby]

I'd use some Copper Coat, personally, but if you're a Motoseal man I'd say use that.

Now that’s an interesting idea. I might have some around.

The motoseal I have for BGD.

 

[Steve]

I'd use some Copper Coat, personally, but if you're a Motoseal man I'd say use that.

That or loctite 518. I try to stay away from motoseal by carb impulse passages. Might clog it when it squishes out.

 

[huskyboy]

Loctite 518 doesn’t work great in plastic to metal sealing applications. Only metal on metal. Just my experiences with the husky 350 plastic riser to metal case sealing surface. Dunno if this would be any different.

 

[Steve]

Loctite 518 doesn’t work great in plastic to metal sealing applications. Only metal on metal. Just my experiences with the husky 350 plastic riser to metal case sealing surface. Dunno if this would be any different.

It works well as a dressing for a gasket in this instance. But you are 100% correct on the metal to plastic thing. I never tried it on the block adaptor on a 350... (I have and it failed too!)

 

[davidwyby]

That or loctite 518. I try to stay away from motoseal by carb impulse passages. Might clog it when it squishes out.

Would apply veeeery thinly

 

[CJ Brown]

I've had good luck with Permatex Spray-a-Gasket. It goes on thin and evenly and tacks up nicely after a few minutes. It doesn't harden either so separating parts at a later time is not an issue.

 

[davidwyby]

So far it is working without sealer.

 

[Sawrain]

I did the same with a 262, surfaced it and used a dry gasket.

It has been fine, but hasn’t done much work admittedly.

 

[davidwyby]

@Reveller Saws i think this is the thread