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Husky 359 eating clutches

Dolkitafreak

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CF44EA32-E916-4BB8-B36A-77958ADD9991.jpeg This husky 359 broke its fourth clutch today in the span of about 4 years as a firewood saw. It’s been through multiple new and used OEM clutches, this was a new OEM clutch a year ago. Crank indicates straight and true, drum and bearing new OEM as well. Any ideas what’s going on?

Saw runs 16” 3/8 full comp, not chattery chains, not by a super hamfisted operator. I can’t figure out what’s going on here!
 

Funky sawman

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I see some discoloration on one of the shoes, caused by excess heat. Slipping the clutch is the only thing that can do that, maybe the chain is too aggressive?
Other than that, I have no idea, very odd issue.
 

David Young

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No clue what is going on. But definitely see the heat on the shoe. So I’d troubleshoot from there. I honestly don’t know that I’ve ever seen a clutch break like tha without some impact and especially not repeatedly
 

Pincher

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I would guess that the heat was an effect of the broken shoe. The blue shoe was the only one that still functioned as the other two were bound up by unbalance spring tension.

No guess as to why it failed, but I would rule out excessive slipping.
 

Dolkitafreak

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It certainly got some heat, it’s bogged occasionally but never held there or bogged repeatedly from running a huge bar or anything. Not my saw but I cut all the time with the owner, his chains aren’t ever jumpy or anything, no idea why it’s doing this! I’ll check the drum over
 

Michpatriot

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Does he bore at all? A fully engaged clutch, that gets a couple good chatter\ bump outs in a bore might bust the shoe..unnoticed then but later causing overheating and damage.
 

Dolkitafreak

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Any chance that somebody is snapping the brake on at full throttle? Some people think that's a good way to check brake function and do it repeatedly.. Horrible idea.
Good thought, but surprisingly no! Never uses brake unless it’s accidentally bumped sometime. Never bores either, just standard firewood bucking!
 

Kiwioilboiler

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In an only semi related theme, what's everyone using for 357 clutch removal tool? My spray metal AM three legger ripped a leg off on first use. Is an old auto socket crafted into a tool a better longer term option? I have two of these to split soon.
 

old guy

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In an only semi related theme, what's everyone using for 357 clutch removal tool? My spray metal AM three legger ripped a leg off on first use. Is an old auto socket crafted into a tool a better longer term option? I have two of these to split soon.
I just use a screwdriver and hammer in the provided notches on the clutch.
 

Funky sawman

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I just use a screwdriver and hammer in the provided notches on the clutch.
That's all I use, a bar wrench with my felling axe. I grease my bearing often, then wear out a sprocket about once every month and a half. Still on the factory clutch on my 2007 357xpg, granted the first 12 years was easy on this saw. Now it sees hard commercial use, but I take care of my junk
 

AVB

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Personally I just use the removal socket tool I brought years ago. I using it with three points of contact is better than risking damaging a clutch. Now of you got to use a piston stop and a pull bar.

Akky6R6.jpg
 

Duce

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Personally I just use the removal socket tool I brought years ago. I using it with three points of contact is better than risking damaging a clutch. Now of you got to use a piston stop and a pull bar.

Akky6R6.jpg
Piston stops are good at ruining a piston top. Leave spark plug in and spin off with an impact. Or whatever works for you. Have made 2,3,4 prong tools from cheap 1/2" drive sockets. They hold up well, have only ruined one, my fault, cut to deep and weakened a prog. One shown doesn't work on all clutches.
 
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AVB

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Piston stops are good at ruining a piston top. Leave spark plug in and spin off with an impact. Or whatever works for you. Have made 2,3,4 prong tools from cheap 1/2" drive sockets. They hold up well, have only ruined one, my fault, cut to deep and weakened a prog. One shown doesn't work on all clothes.
First I hope you mean clutches and not clothes but if you mean clothes it does grab them very well too.:p

Well so far I have only ruin one piston in 13 yrs and was because some idiot over torque the clutch on a Stihl chainsaw. It is also that if the recoil is not removed you can damage it using an impact.

As far the shown tool not working on all clutches that is a give me as I have multiple versions for most of the saws that I work on. It just like the pin version used on Poulan saws as there is two versions of it too as I had to buy the new version recently.
 
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Duce

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First I hope you mean clutches and not clothes but if you mean clothes it does grab them very well too.:p

Well so far I have only ruin one piston in 13 yrs and was because some idiot over torque the clutch on a Stihl chainsaw. It is also that if the recoil is not removed you can damage it using an impact.

As far the shown tool not working on all clutches that is a give me as I have multiple versions for most of the saws that I work on. It just like the pin version used on Poulan saws as there is two versions of it too as I had to buy the new version recently.
Thanks, fixed it.
 

Nutball

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I pull the rope out past a compression stroke before using an impact.

Also, I have used the 372 clutch removal tool on a good number of clutches it wasn't made for.
 
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