Husky 354 no bar oil

[bertfixessome]

Got a 345 in the shop
Piston broke up so I fitted a new cylinder, piston& bearings .
It runs like a champ but no oil to the bar
So far
1) replaced the spindle ( no change )
2) removed filter - not clogged
3) pressurized oil tan , oil oozes out of pump
4) replace entire pump , worm gear & rubber seal, still no oil
All parts were oiled before assembly
checked the worm is turning when the clutch drum is rotated by hand

The only non standard thing is the drum which is now a rim drive rather than a spur sprocket
Never had this problem when changing sprocket styles before

Any ideas ?
Cause I am out of them .

 

[Dogfather]

check the drum to make sure the 4-drive tangs for the worm are there. some of the early saws did not have them and you may have the wrong drum.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

There are a few different oil pump and worm combos. The 345 is a non adjustable pump with a rather rounded looking worm drive.

I have been swapping out the pump, worm and drum for 455/460 ranchers. They just flat out work better. The pump for the 455/460 is shared by the 350 but uses a different worm and drum. The rancher setup is the only real correct way to get a reliable and proper rim drive on a 340,345,350. They have a much lower chance of stripping out.


Steven

 

[bertfixessome]

check the drum to make sure the 4-drive tangs for the worm are there. some of the early saws did not have them and you may have the wrong drum.

Thanks.
The end of the worm gear is shaped to take a spur sprocket with a star pattern
The rim sprocket has the teeth that do engage with the teeth on the pump drive
I did not see any damage to the worm drive but I will have a closer look today

 

[bertfixessome]

There are a few different oil pump and worm combos. The 345 is a non adjustable pump with a rather rounded looking worm drive.

I have been swapping out the pump, worm and drum for 455/460 ranchers. They just flat out work better. The pump for the 455/460 is shared by the 350 but uses a different worm and drum. The rancher setup is the only real correct way to get a reliable and proper rim drive on a 340,345,350. They have a much lower chance of stripping out.


Steven

Thank Steve
Now you have my full attention and I am all ears.
The 345 pump slips between 2 sets of pin protruding from the fuel/oil tank casting
My parts book shows the 455/460 Rancher pump as a bolt on item
Am I looking at the right parts as the std 455 pump has all the same part numbers as the 345 pump ?
If that 455/460 pump can fit how do you do it ?
Cutting off the locating pins & drilling a hole for the single mounting bolt ?
Not adverse to a bit of work with the Dremel but a touch cautious about going down a path from which there is no return

I don't do much in the way of chain saws so am not as familiar with them as I am with mowers and then majority that I do work on are Stihls + every supermarket rebadged brand under the sun.

The parts I have fitted are all from Farmer Tech.
I have been using their stuff ever since B & S took over the distribution of Oregon products as B & S Australia only import battery powered whole goods, chain loops & bars, ( supermarket shelf items ) no individual chain rolls, chain parts nor clutch drums / sprockets which is a bugger .
The wholesaler that used to supply Oregon is now doing their own branded stuff ( from China ) but the range is very limited
Same story with Walbro which was taken from my wholesaler & handed to B & S Aust so zero Walbro parts as well, just complete carbs .

Looking forward to some instructions
I will order a complete set for the Rancher as it won't hurt to have them on hand but I would really like to know how you do it .

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Thank Steve
Now you have my full attention and I am all ears.
The 345 pump slips between 2 sets of pin protruding from the fuel/oil tank casting
My parts book shows the 455/460 Rancher pump as a bolt on item
Am I looking at the right parts as the std 455 pump has all the same part numbers as the 345 pump ?
If that 455/460 pump can fit how do you do it ?
Cutting off the locating pins & drilling a hole for the single mounting bolt ?
Not adverse to a bit of work with the Dremel but a touch cautious about going down a path from which there is no return

I don't do much in the way of chain saws so am not as familiar with them as I am with mowers and then majority that I do work on are Stihls + every supermarket rebadged brand under the sun.

The parts I have fitted are all from Farmer Tech.
I have been using their stuff ever since B & S took over the distribution of Oregon products as B & S Australia only import battery powered whole goods, chain loops & bars, ( supermarket shelf items ) no individual chain rolls, chain parts nor clutch drums / sprockets which is a bugger .
The wholesaler that used to supply Oregon is now doing their own branded stuff ( from China ) but the range is very limited
Same story with Walbro which was taken from my wholesaler & handed to B & S Aust so zero Walbro parts as well, just complete carbs .

Looking forward to some instructions
I will order a complete set for the Rancher as it won't hurt to have them on hand but I would really like to know how you do it .

If my memory is correct. The pins get pulled out and new screws are needed. @Stump Shot, @JohnnyBlade or @farminkarman might be able to confirm this. I don't have any of those series saws left.


Steven

 

[Duce]

Got a 345 in the shop
Piston broke up so I fitted a new cylinder, piston& bearings .
It runs like a champ but no oil to the bar
So far
1) replaced the spindle ( no change )
2) removed filter - not clogged
3) pressurized oil tan , oil oozes out of pump
4) replace entire pump , worm gear & rubber seal, still no oil
All parts were oiled before assembly
checked the worm is turning when the clutch drum is rotated by hand

The only non standard thing is the drum which is now a rim drive rather than a spur sprocket
Never had this problem when changing sprocket styles before

Any ideas ?
Cause I am out of them .

Did you pressurize it through oil tank vent?

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Thank Steve
Now you have my full attention and I am all ears.
The 345 pump slips between 2 sets of pin protruding from the fuel/oil tank casting
My parts book shows the 455/460 Rancher pump as a bolt on item
Am I looking at the right parts as the std 455 pump has all the same part numbers as the 345 pump ?
If that 455/460 pump can fit how do you do it ?
Cutting off the locating pins & drilling a hole for the single mounting bolt ?
Not adverse to a bit of work with the Dremel but a touch cautious about going down a path from which there is no return

I don't do much in the way of chain saws so am not as familiar with them as I am with mowers and then majority that I do work on are Stihls + every supermarket rebadged brand under the sun.

The parts I have fitted are all from Farmer Tech.
I have been using their stuff ever since B & S took over the distribution of Oregon products as B & S Australia only import battery powered whole goods, chain loops & bars, ( supermarket shelf items ) no individual chain rolls, chain parts nor clutch drums / sprockets which is a bugger .
The wholesaler that used to supply Oregon is now doing their own branded stuff ( from China ) but the range is very limited
Same story with Walbro which was taken from my wholesaler & handed to B & S Aust so zero Walbro parts as well, just complete carbs .

Looking forward to some instructions
I will order a complete set for the Rancher as it won't hurt to have them on hand but I would really like to know how you do it .

Also every 345 I have had was a fixed rate oil pump. The 350, 455 and 460 are a adjustable pump.
Does your 345 have the adjustable pump already? If so you may just need the worm and drum from a rancher.

I believe @Woodrow is also very familiar with this series


Steven

 

[bertfixessome]

If my memory is correct. The pins get pulled out and new screws are needed. @Stump Shot, @JohnnyBlade or @farminkarman might be able to confirm this. I don't have any of those series saws left.


Steven

Had another look at it with what you have posted in mind
There is a bolt hole so it might just be a case of pulling the dowel out
Have a full pump on order so I will see when it turns up
Spun the pump by using a socket pressed hard against the clutch drum ( not good ) but sort of worked.
Got a pathetic dribble out of the pump
After lunch I will cut us an old socket to drive the worm with and see what sort of flow I get from 3,500 rpm that the drill will do .
Having a good look at it these is signs of the plastic melting behind the chain plate near the lower run and also under the tension adjuster.
The old bar had a gouge out of the bottom & the old chain has a bad twist in it so now things are starting to piece together
Pump fails, chain gets hot causes the bar to overheat and jam the chain causing an abrupt stop & broken piston.

Once again thanks for the heads up.
If I can get this to work then it will become SOP as you are quite right these fixed rate pumps are not the best ( to be polite ).
particularly down here where just about all timber is Hard Hardwood. They did not call them Iron barks for nothing .
So in OZ chainsaws work hard everywhere except in the pine plantations & even then a lot of the pros still use swing saws .

 

[bertfixessome]

Did you pressurize it through oil tank vent?

Use a plug of shop towel in the filler cap but I did get a needle nose duster & checked that air went in through the vent on the assumption there was a check valve of some sort in there .

 

[bertfixessome]

Also every 345 I have had was a fixed rate oil pump. The 350, 455 and 460 are a adjustable pump.
Does your 345 have the adjustable pump already? If so you may just need the worm and drum from a rancher.

I believe @Woodrow is also very familiar with this series


Steven

Yes it is a fixed rate pump but if I can then an adjustable rate will go in there
Had a good look at the body and it seems to have all the holes in the right places for the adjustable pump.
The usual problem I have with these is the exact opposite, oil pouring out from the bar when not in use .
I really don't do enough chain saws to become familiar enough with them so thanks for all of the assistance it is a really great asset
Been here over a year & his is the first time I have put the hand out & very happy with the responses to date .

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Here is what I use to do the rim conversion. Have never had a issue going this route as long as the oil pump was adjustable. Will not work on the fixed pumps.

This drum mates up with the oem two tab worm perfectly. I believe Oregon also makes one.

Edit: oregon drum pn#513470X



Steven

 

[bertfixessome]

While I do have a Stens account they do not do as many sprockets down here as they do in the USA
When they took over By-Norm I had hoped that they would continue to carry the full range of Carlton Chain & sprockets but slowly they converted to their own brand Silver Streak which is nowhere near the quality that Carlton was and the range is substantially smaller .
And RGS my other wholesaler do not carry one for for this machine yet and I doubt that they will as they just appointed an idiot reject from a supermarket chain as the manager of the spares division who is culling vast numbers of slow moving parts & adding a not of current model parts to get more big shops to buy them, not understanding that a franchised dealer can not stock aftermarket parts for the franchised brands .
And he was appointed to arrest the rapid amount of market share they are loosing to Stens.
Never occurred to him that if RGS can not supply the whole order I would probably place the whole order with some one else .
Had the rep come around for the first time is 11 years last week wondering why my orders were dropping
When he was told, he just shrugged his shoulders & walked away
IF I have to order parts from the USA then I have to order at least 10 lbs to amortise the freight costs .
If I have to order from China then I get caught with minimum order quantities , so the excess get sold off at week end markes every now & then
After your post just ordered 20 worm gears from China and while there came across yet another factory EMAS so now waiting to get their catelogue
Also ordered 5 oil pumps along with a pile of other stuff to make up shipment sizes from Farmer Tech.
Down side of Made-in-China.com is minimum order sizes but most will accomodate you if you place a large enough order for mixed parts .

FWIW my friendly Husqvarna dealer quoted me $ 95 ( Aus ) for the drum + more for the sprocket & more for the bearing + 30 days for delivery.
You can see why I don' do may saws when for the same money a customer could get a complete 16" rebranded Chinese chain saw and I can get the whole shooting match from China for under $ 30 delivered .