Husky 353 muffler mod

[Ittybittyfitty]

Howdy,
I have this 353 and I’d like to open up the muffler some to let her breathe a little better, maybe add some power, etc. How would you guys tackle this job in the most cost effective & easiest fashion? I don’t have a welder unfortunately. I’ve done fish gill mods on some of my Stihls but never done a MM on a hooskie. Attached is a pic of my saw.

Thanks guys

 

[huskihl]

Fish gills would work on the upper pto side. I usually braze a deflector or pipe in there

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Get a medium deflector or six off of @Red97. (It's addictive, you'll need the extras....)
Unibit a hole in the upper corner above the chain and rivnut the trimmed deflector over the hole with loctited cap screws.
No welding necessary. Done a dozen or so.

 

[Ittybittyfitty]

Thanks guys, I’ll take your advice. Upper chain side of the muffler.

 

[Stump Shot]

Thanks guys, I’ll take your advice. Upper chain side of the muffler.

Yup, you got it.
You can also open up the original hole with a dremmel tool and a burr ball bit to the rear most part of the deflector. As if you take some out of the front it may bleed out too heavy(not being deflected) and melt your top cover. Some patience is required as you have to keep attacking it from different angle as you sneak that bit under the deflector, with a bit of time the tool will do the work.
Note; either a small double cut ball or a rough diamond coated ball burr bits work best

 

[old guy]

I just cut a 3/4'' to 1'' fish gill up high on the clutch side, make sure to get behind the baffle, I cut a slit with a dremel, then pry it open with large flat screwdriver, takes little time needs nothing more.

 

[Ketchup]

If you want the quick approach, you can drill a hole (step up to 5/8” or so) straight through the stabilizer bracket and front muffler wall. You can even fit a muffler screen in between the bracket and the can. I did that on my junkyard 346. It’s loud as hell, but works great. A front opening does tend to burn the wood if you’re doing bigger cuts.

Since your saw looks so clean and nice, I would get a small deflector from Red97 and take the time to do a nice job on the PTO side. Riv-nuts (steel!), weld, braze, whatever. Then give it a nice hi temp black paint job.

Maybe even get a used or aftermarket muffler to try your skills on.

 

[Ittybittyfitty]

Yup, you got it.
You can also open up the original hole with a dremmel tool and a burr ball bit to the rear most part of the deflector. As if you take some out of the front it may bleed out too heavy(not being deflected) and melt your top cover. Some patience is required as you have to keep attacking it from different angle as you sneak that bit under the deflector, with a bit of time the tool will do the work.
Note; either a small double cut ball or a rough diamond coated ball burr bits work best

I just cut a 3/4'' to 1'' fish gill up high on the clutch side, make sure to get behind the baffle, I cut a slit with a dremel, then pry it open with large flat screwdriver, takes little time needs nothing more.

If you want the quick approach, you can drill a hole (step up to 5/8” or so) straight through the stabilizer bracket and front muffler wall. You can even fit a muffler screen in between the bracket and the can. I did that on my junkyard 346. It’s loud as hell, but works great. A front opening does tend to burn the wood if you’re doing bigger cuts.

Since your saw looks so clean and nice, I would get a small deflector from Red97 and take the time to do a nice job on the PTO side. Riv-nuts (steel!), weld, braze, whatever. Then give it a nice hi temp black paint job.

Maybe even get a used or aftermarket muffler to try your skills on.

Thanks guys, lots of good options here. The saw has never seen fluids so I will probably try to keep this one nice looking and use a deflector finished off with some krylon grill paint.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Thanks guys, lots of good options here. The saw has never seen fluids so I will probably try to keep this one nice looking and use a deflector finished off with some krylon grill paint.

If this is the grill paint you’re thinking of don’t waste your money. I bought this can years ago thinking it would be good for saw mufflers. Needless to say it didn’t thus I still have most of a can full.
I’d recommend spending the extra couple bucks and getting the VHT flameproof header paint.

 

[Stump Shot]

If this is the grill paint you’re thinking of don’t waste your money. I bought this can years ago thinking it would be good for saw mufflers. Needless to say it didn’t thus I still have most of a can full.
I’d recommend spending the extra couple bucks and getting the VHT flameproof header paint. View attachment 353982 View attachment 353983

2000 degree header paint from Rustoleum works excellent as well and is what I use as an alternative for folks to what they can find.
You're 100% spot on about the grill paint, it definitely will flake off after a while.

 

[huskihl]

I’ve only ever used the Rustoleum bbq grill paint. Seems decent enough for the price and lasts at least a few years. Might eventually show some rust but doesn’t peel

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Thanks guys, lots of good options here. The saw has never seen fluids so I will probably try to keep this one nice looking and use a deflector finished off with some krylon grill paint.

Never seen fluids?!

@Woodrow

 

[Ittybittyfitty]

Never seen fluids?!

@Woodrow

Correct, brandy new.

 

[Philbert]

Fish gills would work on the upper pto side. I usually braze a deflector or pipe in there

Get a medium deflector or six off of @Red97
Unibit a hole in the upper corner above the chain and rivnut the trimmed deflector over the hole with loctited cap screws.

You can also open up the original hole with a dremmel tool and a burr ball bit to the rear most part of the deflector

I just cut a 3/4'' to 1'' fish gill up high on the clutch side, make sure to get behind the baffle,

Pics?

Thanks

Philbert

 

[Stump Shot]

I’ve only ever used the Rustoleum bbq grill paint. Seems decent enough for the price and lasts at least a few years. Might eventually show some rust but doesn’t peel

Rustoleum usually has good products, I don't recall the brand of grill paint I had years ago, but I quit using it and searched for something else, I remember that.

 

[Woodrow]

Correct, brandy new.

For sale?

 

[old guy]

Found these pics way back in my computer, will see if I put em up. View attachment 354030
Looks like I got one, I like to put em about 1/2'' more to the front, but they must stay behind the baffle.

 

[old guy]

got 2 more

 

[Stump Shot]

Pics?

Thanks

Philbert

If need be, the lip can be lightly pried up to give access with the burr ball bit, then tapped back down when finished.

 

[Woodslasher]

If need be, the lip can be lightly pried up to give access with the burr ball bit, then tapped back down when finished.
View attachment 354036

I was told a wee bit of prying helps them flow better and I've yet to have a melty top cover. Also, for cheap knuckleheads such as myself a fine drill bit and a screwdriver will work for outlet enlarging too. Make a lot of holes close together along the perimeter of the port, use a beater sharpened flathead screwdriver to "connect the dots", mebbe a file swipe or two to get the rough edges and voila! You have a gutted port! I've done it on a few mufflers, its effective despite it's crudeness. I can attest to it working on a Husky 350, 562, 372, and 395 so far.