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Homelite super ez automatic ignition help

NorthcentralYooper

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I'm working on Homelite super ez auto.

I got some spark but it appears weak on plug and tester.
The plug is wet , I cleaned the contacts on the coil. Will get a new plug but I'm thinking it's a points issue with timing. I can clean the plug and put it in and won't even fire once.

I made a homemade flywheel puller and bent that trying to pull flywheel to look at the points. I remade one with heavier steel and I'll try later today .

Has anyone found electronic coils to bypass the points .? I did that on a 012 or 15 stihl.

Any suggestions ?
 

Warped5

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Does your saw have the blue Prestolite coil? Those are known to go bad.

FWIW a Nova II module can be used to bypass the points. The number is 31-8786 and is available from a variety of sources, including NAPA.
 

5000+

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If it is a point ignition, homelite used 2 different manufacturers on that model. Flywheel and everthing is different between the 2. Could be dirty points, bad condenser, or coil. I have had a few of them with bad coils that ran erratically, no start, start and run fine for a few seconds then erratic. Like Warped said, there was also a electronic coil that were known to fail. I recommend if you have a points model try to determine what is wrong and replace what it needs. The parts are out there and usually very little goes wrong.
 

NorthcentralYooper

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Ok thanks for replys, it has the black coil. The guy told me he couldn't get it to idLE and it idled high, fist thing I thought was a air leak but it wouldn't start for me . I'm going to try my homemade puller later today so hopefully I can determine the root cause soon
 

Jimmy in NC

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Ok thanks for replys, it has the black coil. The guy told me he couldn't get it to idLE and it idled high, fist thing I thought was a air leak but it wouldn't start for me . I'm going to try my homemade puller later today so hopefully I can determine the root cause soon
Loosen the nut, small pry bar gently holding pressure up on flywheel, smack the end of the crank with a BRASS hammer. It'll pop right off.
 

NorthcentralYooper

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Loosen the nut, small pry bar gently holding pressure up on flywheel, smack the end of the crank with a BRASS hammer. It'll pop right off.

Thanks , I used my homemade puller. I tried the pry bar method the other day but used a hard mallet ... didn't feel comfortable using anything harder
 

NorthcentralYooper

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Just to update , I got the flywheel off yesterday and checked the points and lo and behold the points gap was around .006" I found the spec online for points air gap at .015"
I cleaned the points with electrical contact cleaner reset points put it a back together and got it running. The guy he had look at it before had the idle screw turned in alot so I could almost started cutting wood with it. It was late so I fine tuned the carb and it idles great.
Thanks for advice guys I'm glad no parts were involved .
 
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