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Gpa’s storage shed to be my garage/saw shop.

davidwyby

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It’s a 15x30 metal box full of junk now....super hot in summer and cold or as cold as it gets here in winter. Recently starting getting insulation together. Think a radiant barrier might be a good idea but hopefully insulation and elastomeric roof coating will suffice for summer. One of too
many projects, the lemans will go in there and get the top of the engine put back on this summer if I don’t get it this winter.
 

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davidwyby

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Looking for any and all input. Tool/saw/parts storage/organization....

Dishwasher is gonna be saw parts washer. Gotta move a couple posts for the moho shade and probably make a swinging garage door with a roller for support.
 
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ktmtigger

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Close it up the best you can save your money for ac/ heat unit. Whatever you think you want for a bench length double it and put shelves above half

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Screw the saws. Get that car back on the street.
+1 on Redfin, Get that Pontiac back on the street!! GTO Judge by chance?? Hurst his and her shifter?? Awesome car my man!!
 

davidwyby

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05652D58-C41D-4D14-8CAA-6C6C919772B2.jpeg Roof spans are 3’ x15’. Trying to decide how to break that up and give myself something to hold the insulation in and eventually screw some kind of board to.

Wall are like 48”x48” I think.
 

davidwyby

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Rigid foam for the walls should be easy 5D3BD014-DBFD-4E07-B273-FD56822DB186.jpeg 9E7FDC99-0E1E-4C38-8846-A9E8BE72278E.jpeg I think I got it figured

we have tons of small round rods at work

drill holes in rafters and stick them across to hold up insul until I get interior board in.

EDIT : fail idea. Maybe chicken wire would have been better.

We went this 4” rigid foam. Very nice. I got it for free from a remodel. It’s expensive if you have to buy it, like $65/ea.
 
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hseII

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davidwyby

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You think you’ll need a vapor barrier for the condensation?


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I’m just insulating now, will find out if it sweats this summer. With AC running inside to keep it dry, I don’t think it will. I think in order to do a proper barrier, I would have to pull the corrugated metal off. Which I may end up doing if this insulation proves insufficient because I’ll want to add a thermal barrier between the skin and frame.

I'd consider getting someone to come and spray it with foam. It's not as cheap as fiberglass batt, but I think it would be worth it in your situation.
Yeah, maybe, but I have all this insulation free...and I can get it in around all my junk and lights. I’d have to clear it out completely for that.

My concern is if it’s enough R value with no attic. I will put heat reflective coating on the roof. My other concern is heat transfer from the skin to the rafters and into the building between the batts. If insufficient, I may frame out another roof/layer of insulation with eaves on it.
 

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I’m just insulating now, will find out if it sweats this summer. With AC running inside to keep it dry, I don’t think it will. I think in order to do a proper barrier, I would have to pull the corrugated metal off. Which I may end up doing if this insulation proves insufficient because I’ll want to add a thermal barrier between the skin and frame.


Yeah, maybe, but I have all this insulation free...and I can get it in around all my junk and lights. I’d have to clear it out completely for that.

My concern is if it’s enough R value with no attic. I will put heat reflective coating on the roof. My other concern is heat transfer from the skin to the rafters and into the building between the batts. If insufficient, I may frame out another roof/layer of insulation with eaves on it.
That is an advantage of the foam - it's an almost perfect thermal break. We remodeled our house this year and sprayed the rafters. I think we got about 4-5" of closed-cell, which is approximately R-28 to R-35. That's not much by current standards, but having a perfect air seal and thermal break made much more of a difference than the R-value only.
 

davidwyby

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Hmm now that is interesting. I didn’t realize the R was so high. And air tight, yes... I think metal skin is maybe less than ideal here as it absorbs so much heat ...and ambient air is also quite hot.

heck if what I’m doing doesn’t work this summer I may go spray
 
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davidwyby

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I had a minor epiphany. Make movable divider walls so if I’m only working on saws in one end I only have to pay the electric bill to A/C 1/4 of it.

Maybe even rig up insulated curtains to hang over around a vehicle so when working on the engine bay the rest of the shop can stay warmer.
 

davidwyby

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Scrounging the rems to finish the ceiling, doweled and glued.

C115F25F-BCB8-4072-8C90-C5B1CF43C444.jpeg

scrounging lumber from shaft shipping boxes
93FBD4E3-434B-42A7-B9DD-183B70C47F5F.jpeg
Overhead tool storage
CC72318A-029D-4298-B729-C4056EB52CC0.jpeg
Cheating using the shelves for wallboard :D someone is going to get a surprise some day, haha.
42FEDE78-4CAD-4112-A4FE-647605F7F025.jpeg
Furring/framing for sheetrock ...sideways :rolleyes:
F246BAA1-4447-4322-84E7-82660E3DF4A2.jpeg
 
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davidwyby

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Kind of a cross post, hope no one minds.

Little more progress. 100f today.

North wall (shelving wall) is done, East end wall insulated. Ended up staying 2x4 there. Still needs a window, electrical, and AC unit (mini split) put in. South wall went 2x6, framing pieces cut/fitted, conduit roughed in. Gotta get that one insulated, major heat source.

Couple places in the ceiling we left insulation out for electrical, and the metal is uncomfortable to touch. some heat soaks down thru the beams between the insulation. Need to get the reflective coating on.

7149E586-19D1-4640-8FE2-2B7EAC1B3233.jpeg4B539892-185E-44F7-A9FC-1E72CDDE7350.jpeg7EDCF244-48A5-4623-884D-F1CE3D2D249D.jpeg
 
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