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Gasket delete sealant?

bwalker

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Loctite 574 isn't available locally, but Permatex #51813 is. Is the Permatex product usable?
 

T.Roller

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Loctite 574 isn't available locally, but Permatex #51813 is. Is the Permatex product usable?
51813 is what I bought and used on my 044 without a base gasket. It only has a few minutes run time so far but no air leak. Its what my local powersports repair shop uses.
 

Warped5

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To the OP: Which gasket are you deleting? The base gasket or the one between the case halves?
 

bwalker

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Base gasket.
 

Canadian farm boy

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The 51813 is what I've been using. Seems to work good for base gasket deletes. Just remember don't run the saw to much after first putting it together. The 51813 should be left to cure overnight before you really start running the saw. IIRC the cure time is something like 8-12 hrs.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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I dunno for sure .... but here's what I use without fail:

I guess they're both the same product but different label. The one on the right is what I have. I used to tie some in the corner of a sandwich bag and pipe it like icing drawing on a cake. Now I just use a q-tip to smear a thin layer on the surface. The less you use the better or it will squeeze out and gum up the piston.
The most important thing is to wait a good fifteen minutes for it to nearly dry before you assemble and torque down.
 

smokey7

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I'm a motoseal guy. Very good stuff just use your head when applying it. Not a fan of the 518 as it only works with rules that motoseal don't need to work good.
 

smokey7

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Dang I wouldn't like that stuff on my piston.....
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Permatex grey is good ,i have used the black also with no problems ,i think the guys like 518 because it will wash out of the case if splooges in

Here what 518 looks like when you get a bit on your piston. View attachment 28320
Like @junkman said "it washes away"
A couple seconds of run time and you'd never know the stuff was ever on the piston
That's a good thing and a bad thing. You want to rinse it with fuel before it sets up and freezes the piston to the jug, but you also don't want the 518 to be dissolved in places it needs to remain when it hasn't set up yet.
 

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That's a good thing and a bad thing. You want to rinse it with fuel before it sets up and freezes the piston to the jug, but you also don't want the 518 to be dissolved in places it needs to remain when it hasn't set up yet.
Whenever I've used 518 I almost always start up the saw once I have everything back together. I only run it for a couple minutes. The cylinder doesn't get much more then warm. I do it mostly out of curiosity but doing it also washes away any excess 518 that got squished into the saw and into the piston.
 

SixGun

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I've been using Hondabond and it's great stuff. They carry it at my local Harley dealer
 

stihl saws

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That's a good thing and a bad thing. You want to rinse it with fuel before it sets up and freezes the piston to the jug, but you also don't want the 518 to be dissolved in places it needs to remain when it hasn't set up yet.
That was my first thought, too. I like the Yamabond, Hondabond or the Motoseal. Pretty much the same stuff with a different label.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Does anyone use a very thin piece of paper as a bonding surface for 518?
Cut it into the gasket shape and wet it with 518 so you're only applying a moistened gasket for better control. This would prevent problems where I've seen little pieces of 518 jettison from the seam after a little time getting brittle...which allowed leaks to fry a few saws. All it takes is for one mount screw to come loose or improper cleaning before application.
 

jmssaws

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I try to only use a gasket but if I have to use sealor, I use Dirko.

It stinks but is instant and never failed me.
 
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