Farmertec MS460 Build

[streetwise]

Im waiting on the kit to arrive in a few weeks. Has anybody built this kit im interested if there are any parts worth replacing with OEM before assembly. Thanks

 

[ammoaddict]

Im waiting on the kit to arrive in a few weeks. Has anybody built this kit im interested if there are any parts worth replacing with OEM before assembly. Thanks

Unfortunately the parts in these kits are constantly changing. For the most part the parts are getting better but you really don't know what you are going to get until you get into it.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[LoneOak]

I have not yet put an MS 460 together, but I am quite familiar with their kits, having built about 10 of them. And having about 5 yrs as a saw mechanic working for a Stihl dealer, can offer some sound recommendations.

1. Use an OEM chain adjuster kit (it works, just not smoothly and the little metal brace plate is flimsy)
2. Discard the compression release valve that comes in the kit. (use a plug, or replace with OEM)
3. Purchase an OEM Elast-O-Start handle and rope. (4mm) It will save your shoulder and wrist!
4. Discard the Spark Plug supplied in the kit. (I would recommend the "Bosch" WSR6F but the "NGK" BPMR7A will work)
5. If the clutch drum in your kit is of the Spur type I would recommend swapping it out for the OEM Rim Drum, its just a better design.

Other notes and cautions:
Pay close attention to the Exhaust port arrow, they don't always point in the right direction. The MS 460 piston ring locating "pins" will straddle the Intake port.

All of the gaskets and seals that come with the kits are ok to use; no issues to date with any of the kits I have assembled. Do pay close attention when inserting the PTO side of the crank into that side of the case half. The seal may go "inside-out" on you and getting the spring back in place is a PITA. But the last couple of kits I have received, the seals weren't even installed (KUDOS FT).

Examine the crank bearings closely, make sure that there is no machining chips/particles in them, flush them with a solvent and apply 2 cycle oil or assembly lube. (I like LUCAS assembly lube for this)

Once you have the case together and the cylinder buckled down... PRESSURE TEST it!!! If you don't have the equipment to do pressure testing now, get it! You can get a nice Pres/Vac kit at Napa for around 50 bux, the exhaust plate and rubber mat on Ebay (20 bux?)

Also before you attach the tank to the block "pressure test it"!! if you get leaks at the cap, lube the O-ring with some 2 cycle oil or assembly lube to help it seal.

Do you have an IPL for this model? If not download one! The kit will not come with one.

I would strongly suggest that you DO NOT use any power tools when assembling your kit, hand tools only. With one exception, the clutch. Also, do not use a piston stop to install the clutch, use an impact and let the compression be the only resistance, it will be plenty for this.

Good Luck, and enjoy building your kit saw!


MS 361 piston, Exhaust port arrow pointing at the Intake side!!


My solution for Intake blocking

1/2 in PVC glued into a 066 boot.
Not a glorious solution, but it works.

 

[streetwise]

I have not yet put an MS 460 together, but I am quite familiar with their kits, having built about 10 of them. And having about 5 yrs as a saw mechanic working for a Stihl dealer, can offer some sound recommendations.

1. Use an OEM chain adjuster kit (it works, just not smoothly and the little metal brace plate is flimsy)
2. Discard the compression release valve that comes in the kit. (use a plug, or replace with OEM)
3. Purchase an OEM Elast-O-Start handle and rope. (4mm) It will save your shoulder and wrist!
4. Discard the Spark Plug supplied in the kit. (I would recommend the "Bosch" WSR6F but the "NGK" BPMR7A will work)
5. If the clutch drum in your kit is of the Spur type I would recommend swapping it out for the OEM Rim Drum, its just a better design.

Other notes and cautions:
Pay close attention to the Exhaust port arrow, they don't always point in the right direction. The MS 460 piston ring locating "pins" will straddle the Intake port.

All of the gaskets and seals that come with the kits are ok to use; no issues to date with any of the kits I have assembled. Do pay close attention when inserting the PTO side of the crank into that side of the case half. The seal may go "inside-out" on you and getting the spring back in place is a PITA. But the last couple of kits I have received, the seals weren't even installed (KUDOS FT).

Examine the crank bearings closely, make sure that there is no machining chips/particles in them, flush them with a solvent and apply 2 cycle oil or assembly lube. (I like LUCAS assembly lube for this)

Once you have the case together and the cylinder buckled down... PRESSURE TEST it!!! If you don't have the equipment to do pressure testing now, get it! You can get a nice Pres/Vac kit at Napa for around 50 bux, the exhaust plate and rubber mat on Ebay (20 bux?)

Also before you attach the tank to the block "pressure test it"!! if you get leaks at the cap, lube the O-ring with some 2 cycle oil or assembly lube to help it seal.

Do you have an IPL for this model? If not download one! The kit will not come with one.

I would strongly suggest that you DO NOT use any power tools when assembling your kit, hand tools only. With one exception, the clutch. Also, do not use a piston stop to install the clutch, use an impact and let the compression be the only resistance, it will be plenty for this.

Good Luck, and enjoy building your kit saw!


MS 361 piston, Exhaust port arrow pointing at the Intake side!!
View attachment 308350

My solution for Intake blocking
View attachment 308351
1/2 in PVC glued into a 066 boot.
Not a glorious solution, but it works.

Wow thanks this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I already picked up the workshop manual and IPL thanks Ray Benson. And have been planning on replacing the chain tensioner, decomp valve, spark plug and handle/rope assy.
Do you have a link to the Napa kit? I also have a harbor freight locally.

 

[LoneOak]

I couldn't find the kit my Napa has anywhere in their data base, so I just look at Amazon.com and found the same kit my local Napa has.

MityVac MV8500, Get the metal one, not the plastic one. $70.00 at Amazon.

 

[MustangMike]

About time I saw someone playing with one of the MS460 kits! Have not seen ANYTHING on them!

I have built several MS440 and MS660 kits, and agree with ALL of the comments posted by LoneOak.

I also ALWAYS replace the piston pin bearings. I had one fail on me, and they are only $10 to replace.

I can usually modify the chain adjusters to get them to work, but be careful and try to determine why it is not working. Some of the cases are not "right", so even replacing them with OEM parts does not solve the problem.

Good luck with your build and keep us posted. I'm real curious about how good or bad these kits are. Seems like some models are better than others.

Also, I ALWAYS run good 2 cycle oil at a good ratio. (I use AMSOIL Saber at 40:1). In addition to flushing the bearings, I do not think they are as hard as OEM, but using good oil will usually save you.

 

[MustangMike]

HL Supply used to sell a "door buster" 460 jug made by FT that seemed to have better ports.

I used one on a 460 and one on a 440 Hybrid. Both cylinders ran well (I did lower the intakes some, and did a base gasket delete). Neither cylinder failed, and the saw owners were were quite happy with them.

I did pair them with either OEM or Meteor pistons. A Meteor piston (which comes with Caber rings) is probably a very smart upgrade that does not cost that much.

 

[Ronie]

Here's a good site for IPLs, it list the screw sizes so you know what screw goes where.

https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms460-magnum/

 

[streetwise]

finally got the parts in today, assembling... just checked squish, without a base gasket im getting .056 probably going to need to mill the cylinder down?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I would definitely take .030 off the cylinder.
I used the sand paper glued to a glass/ marble to take one down, and used Yamabond 4 as the gasket.
Also now is a good time to look at some pictures of an OEM cylinder to see if there are any differences.

 

[streetwise]

Update, still haven't sanded the cylinder... assembled pretty much everything two important parts missing, chain brake lever and THROTTLE ROD!!! so whenever I mill the cylinder and get it assembled I will be able to fire the saw up press the trigger and watch her impressive IDLE at WOT.

 

[67L36Driver]

What Loneoak said and double on using a Stihl comp release.

I’ve had two FT loose the stem, one while idling. [emoji90][emoji2960]

Plan on breaking starter parts if you plug the release port. [emoji19]

 

[MustangMike]

I find that if I remove the plastic cap and glue them to the metal stem I don't have any problems with them. Unmodified, they suck!

Had to remove a 460 cylinder to remove one from a friend's saw a couple of months ago. Luckily, no damage to the (FT) cylinder.

The tank holder and cylinder are AM, the case, crank, etc are OEM, and it has a Meteor piston. The guy loves the saw! IIRC I just lowered the intake a bit, did a BGD and timing advance, and smoothed the bevels on the ports.

 

[streetwise]

I replaced the chain tensioner, decompression valve, and starter handle with OEM stihl parts a and NGK plug from the local dealer.

What Loneoak said and double on using a Stihl comp release.

I’ve had two FT loose the stem, one while idling. [emoji90][emoji2960]

Plan on breaking starter parts if you plug the release port. [emoji19]

 

[streetwise]

Notes from the build so far
Farmertec did put a Rim drum in the kit vs spur style drum so thats one less thing to replace.

The metal guard under the fuel tank doesn't come with the kit, this seems like a part that should come standard in the kit.

The muffler supplied with the kit comes without spark arrestors, spark arrestors would be nice to see in kits in the future; at least give people the option to take them off it can't cost that much more to manufacturer.

No Air prefilter supplied

There isn't any reflective foil with these kits either though my OEM STIHL saw lost it years ago and hasn't had any troubles without it.

Also the litte T27 T-handle screwdriver from Farmertec is garbage it stripped at the very beginning of the build luckily the screws in the kit seems to be of better quality than the driver!

 

[MustangMike]

Didn't know they supplied drivers with any of the kits ... never got one!

Would like to have known if the chain adjuster supplied actually worked! Was a problem on lots of the kits.

 

[streetwise]

I purchased the driver seperatly from Farmertec shouldve know i think it was a dollar. I haven't tried the chain adjuster. mine is still tight but does move after adding a little oil, I think I need to open up the hole in the piece of plastic that retains it in place. It just seems tight.

Didn't know they supplied drivers with any of the kits ... never got one!

Would like to have known if the chain adjuster supplied actually worked! Was a problem on lots of the kits.

 

[LoneOak]

How is the saw running streetwise? Any updates?
I have a few saw kits sitting in the harbor. Hopefully I get a notification from UPS soon.

 

[LoneOak]

An MS 460 Build Video

 

[MustangMike]

I don't have 2 hours to watch the whole thing, but glad to see a 460 build is out there. Saw looks beautiful!

Any issues with the kit? How does it run?