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Echo cs 670 air leak

merc_man

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So my boy noticed his muffler had a little split so wempullednitmoff and welded it up. Then i figured might as well have a quick look and see how it looks inside. Piston looks ausome. Rotate it to look around bit more and the and notice some scoring on intake side. So i figure better figure out whats going on. Get the mityvac out and find the leak. Intake at where carb bolts up. Pull saw apart to look at intake bellow. Clean it all up and it look good. WTF. Clean the other part up that carb side of bellow goes through and it looks good as well. What the hell. Put back togeather and try a leak test. Well this time it holds presure and vac. Was kinda mind boggled about it then got thinking. I gave him crap a while back for reefing his saw out of a pinch. My guess is he must have moved the intake bellow at the carb enough to cause a leak.

Saw still has 150 psi so glad it was caught sooner then later. If i see him reefnon a pinch saw again i will kick him is the @$$

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ktmtigger

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Great saw an good catch I've been beating on one for at least 10 years

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Red97

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Carb is attached to the case on those saws. Only the fuel tank/handle are isolated. Everything else is attached to the crankcase.

Maybe the bolts worked loose?

Still a good catch. Seen too many scored.
 

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Wood Doctor

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This saw has more power per cc of engine displacement than any saw I own:
Echo CS-670.jpg
I have a bundle of long Stihl bars, so I made an adapter so that I can use them with the CS-670. It oils them very well. Mine also checks in with 150 psi compression.
 

merc_man

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This saw has more power per cc of engine displacement than any saw I own:
View attachment 235113
I have a bundle of long Stihl bars, so I made an adapter so that I can use them with the CS-670. It oils them very well. Mine also checks in with 150 psi compression.
Oh cool. Never thought of trying a stihl bar on it. Did you have to do anything with the oil hole?

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Basher

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Yessir.

That was why I was curious if the bolts worked loose.

I have personally found two of these 670`s that had that bellows ripped from users pulling these saws out of jambs, it doesn`t take much to tear them. When fellows that have been used to running solid mount saws that get their hands on rubber AV mount saws they reef on them without thinking.
 

merc_man

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Yessir.

That was why I was curious if the bolts worked loose.
Bolts were all still tight. The leak seemed to be where the bellows (number 5) came through nuber 24 and 25.
Just odd that all i did was pull apart and reassemble and no leak.
0889b05a7c20b3962d24eba5a1a473b9.jpg


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Red97

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I was thinking the way the mag carb box is bolted to the case, and all the controls are attached to the carb box. The boot shouldn't see any stress unless the carb box is loose.
20200410_102854.jpg

Now I can see overtime where it passes through hardening and possibly not giving a good deal. Like @merc_man saw did.
 

merc_man

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I was thinking the way the mag carb box is bolted to the case, and all the controls are attached to the carb box. The boot shouldn't see any stress unless the carb box is loose.
View attachment 235127

Now I can see overtime where it passes through hardening and possibly not giving a good deal. Like @merc_man saw did.
I do see what your saying. Pulling on the saw does not seem to move the bellows the way it is designed. I clamped it up in the vice and moved anti vibe around and no moment of bellows at all like on my stihls. ( not knocking stihls, just an example).
I just rebuilt this saw almost a year ago and it passed vac and pressure test then.

Think for peace of mind i will retest after a tank or two to make sure no leaks.

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Wood Doctor

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Oh cool. Never thought of trying a stihl bar on it. Did you have to do anything with the oil hole?
Not a thing. The holes on the bar aligned with the saw's oiler slot. I've made a few of these adapters out of hardwood and others out of plastic. I think Bailey's was selling them at one time. They still may.
 

Basher

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I just figured it was them reefing on the saw, they also popped the manual oiler line out from between the airbox and there was one loose screw rolling about in the airbox, one that holds the carb box to case on. The saws were less than 3 months old at the time, the rubber seemed nice and pliable. After putting them back together they cut with them for less than a month, the pair were back in for more service. I found the nose sprocket on one bar split open, both chains had the depth gauges ground or filed off and they were running used motor oil for chain lube. I packed the saws up and sent them back, far too much misuse for me to bother with.
 

Basher

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The back story on this is that they were trying to make the Echo`s match the power and speed the 044 and 460`s they had in that wood yard. They had run Stihl`s for two plus years before they tried the Echo`s. First time they came in they had ruined the carbs by ramming the metering screws in so hard the seats were splayed and ruined, I put new carbs on and they were warned to leave the settings alone but again one saw came back with the H screw snapped off. Another new carb was put on and the yard owner was complaining that the saws were weak and not performing. We told them they were not 044 and 046 saws, just give them a chance but that fell on deaf ears. They pretty well destroyed them within 3 months.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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It’s interesting how some guys have an idea on how all ope should run. I have to occasionally remind people that their ms250 is a good saw, but it won’t perform the same as their 036 and they need to remember that in the woods.
 

merc_man

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This saw has more power per cc of engine displacement than any saw I own:
View attachment 235113
I have a bundle of long Stihl bars, so I made an adapter so that I can use them with the CS-670. It oils them very well. Mine also checks in with 150 psi compression.
Made up an adapter tonight. Now he can run my stihl bars too.
f028f101dd0f946a1cee993fd374f96c.jpg
30b04a96c5dbbcb480d225cd66bd1184.jpg


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Wood Doctor

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Made up an adapter tonight. Now he can run my stihl bars too.
f028f101dd0f946a1cee993fd374f96c.jpg
30b04a96c5dbbcb480d225cd66bd1184.jpg


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I like yours bettter than any I ever made. That's a dandy. Getting the right thickness is just as important as the other dimensions, including the clearance holes. Merc_Man, I am really impressed with your workmanship. Two thumbs up!
 

merc_man

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I like yours bettter than any I ever made. That's a dandy. Getting the right thickness is just as important as the other dimensions, including the clearance holes. Merc_Man, I am really impressed with your workmanship. Two thumbs up!
Thanks i appreciate that.

I wish i had beter tools. That was just with a grinder to rough its shape then finished up with a die grinder.

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