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Dead Husqvarna 372 X-Torq strategies

afleetcommand

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A topic that is sure to draw fire, of course that is the spice of life right? First a back drop, there were a few years the X-torq 372's seemed to like to eat their PTO side bearings and bearing pockets.... WHICH Husqvarna addressed obviously as that NO longer ( after 2016? 17?) seems to be a problem. A few things seem to have been changed like wrist pins and cranks to balance things better? But to the subject. WHAT to do when you see a 372 XT that won't idle, runs lean, all the things common to those saws. First obviously diagnose the issue! Often the back to basics approach reveals something simple like a fuel line or water in the gas. And remember updates also to ignitions and carb's help those earlier 372xt's run better as well. A "Brake Clean" test is a simple way to check bearings.....and if when using that red tube on the brake clean can to shoot some brake clean under the clutch when that saw is running...and the saw just stops...dead....THAT is when the next subject starts. If you can kill the saw with brake clean like that, typically there are only two reasons...first a bar oil pump screw backed out (NEVER seen that happen, but its possible ) or the PTO side seal leaks allowing brake clean to get sucked into the crank case, drawn up to the combustion chamber where it fubars the combustion characteristics of that gas air mix...saw dies.

Two situations probable IF its the seal, first the bearing came apart and the crank shaft wobbles around opening up that seal like a kids finger in a peanut butter jar... ( yeah....you guys have better analogies ) Second, the vibration literally jack hammers opens up the PTO side bearing pocket in the cases allowing air to be drawn in around the outer diameter of the bearing....or some combination of jack hammer and peanut butter jar finger.

Question is what's next.
1) Turn the carb as rich as you can and sell it to the next guy...assuming it hasn't fragged yet.
2) Tear it down and HOPE the bearing pocket isn't opened up, put in new bearings and seals....then back to plan 1, get it running and send it down the road.
3) Have a little fun and assuming the cases/ bearing pocket is still good, build it back with better bearings, seals, and mod the thing and run it until it frags! But have fun doing that. Gut the intake, muffler mod, either deck the cylinder .020 or build it with three bond 1184 w/o gasket...all fun. Pull the transfer caps and play around in there...all fun all end up with a strong saw.

3a) Same as above but add a Original Edition Top End/Intake pipe/ and intake bracket.

Or if the cases are completely shot.....plan 365 48mm special... Next three video's are first the realization the cases were bad, then second video the realization the top end I used lost it's plating....and the build which ensued is the "Armageddon" build for worst case with any Husqvarna 372 be it OE or XT...what ever...but the cases needed to be replaces and so did the top end. This is simply making use of Husqvarma 372 Bones mixed with AM parts to keep the cost down. A true Junk Pile Build, but one I think will actually last...

So the LAST video in the 3 part 365 48mm build series, FIRST...HOW did it run? Because that's what everyone wants to know right?

 
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afleetcommand

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The FIRST of the three in that 365 48mm build video series...Situation "1", where just replacing the PTO side bearing is enough and Case 3, realization the cases were shot on the PRIOR "dead saw salvaged from 372xt bones" build...JUMP to minute 5.....a bunch of well drilling up front of this one.

 
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afleetcommand

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Armageddon Build ( You can sub in ANY Top end to this build actually )

 

Marshy

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I vote 3a.
They run well with the OE 372 top end. The x-torque carb is larger than the non x-torque carb so use that on the build as well.
 

afleetcommand

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I vote 3a.
They run well with the OE 372 top end. The x-torque carb is larger than the non x-torque carb so use that on the build as well.

For me...if the OEM cases survives the XT abuse either 50mm or 51.4 OEM top end is the best of all worlds. If the cases are dead and Aftermarket cases are in the solution plan....THAT's when the 48mm solution makes sense to me for those who actually will put a lot of real work on the saw...think the less of everything approach will be more reliable....time will tell. Of course at this point my folks around here want something that will LAST over bling and flash. Other wise 200psi compression and twisting it to 14 K and all implied would happen more frequently. Just don't think the AM bottom ends can deal with that. A little suspicious of even the OEM bottom ends after a few years of use with the heavier X-Torq pistons...maybe a FRESH one. Not a saw built from bones..
 

afleetcommand

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An interesting side note, now after a week on that 365 build using the X-Torq ignition and carb...from a early 2013 version. It idles like a lawn mower. No start issues, no restart issues, the only anomaly is the jetting for the low RPM on that carb if anything is too rich. Easy to flood if you pull too many times with the choke on. Done right its a three pull start saw , one pull restart, and idles as long as you want. No pooling or any of the other goofy crap that happens on X-Torqs. Can only expect the later iterations of the ignition and carb to run even better...if that's even possible. Really please on the "day to day' workings of that saw to this point..in the 30-40 degree weather it's been used.
 

afleetcommand

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More "VEC-tor" Saw....a typical day ,

 
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