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Crankcase pullers/ splitters

spencerdiesel

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Hey all, i’m wanting to dabble in crankshaft/case splitting etc. Mainly on stihl pro saws (046/ 460) and Husqvarna pro saws (357/ 359).
Is there a crank case puller that can do both brands or do I need different pullers for each?
Also, how many of y’all press apart and rebuild your own cranks versus sending cranks off to be rebuilt and to who?
If you true your own cranks do you mind sharing what set up, V blocks/dial indicator/dial test indicator? Thanks!
 

Shane¹

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I don't know about case splitters but this is the crank I rebuilt and trued up for my 7900 build just a few pieces of metal tacked up and then set it all up on top of the tool box because I could use magnets to hold everything from moving aroundScreenshot_20220105-231228.png
 

spencerdiesel

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Thanks y’all for the responses! I plan on playing with the huskies 1st so I think I’ll get a husky splitter and see how versatile it can be.
I did some more searching and (being used to dirt bike bottom ends) didn’t realize it looks like big end bearings aren’t really available in the saw world?
So if you lose the big end you just buy a new crank is that right?
 

Canadian farm boy

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I did some more searching and (being used to dirt bike bottom ends) didn’t realize it looks like big end bearings aren’t really available in the saw world?
So if you lose the big end you just buy a new crank is that right?

For the most part yes. Just about all modern saws have non serviceable big end rod bearings.
 

decableguy2000

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I use a Husqvarna splitter, however you can't use it on a 357 due to the crank stuffers. The OEM is a bit pricey, it bolts to the side an pushes the crank out and is designed to be used on both sides. I think the c shaped one may work on a 359.
 
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spencerdiesel

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Canadian farm boy that’s what it’s seemed like to me thanks.
Decableguy2000 so that splitter does work on the 357?
 

Mastermind

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I usually use a torch and a rubber mallet to pop apart the saws with stuffers. If they are stubborn, I have a Stihl case splitter set that pushes the crank out. Those tools rarely get used.....heat is more than enough in most cases.
 

decableguy2000

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Canadian farm boy that’s what it’s seemed like to me thanks.
Decableguy2000 so that splitter does work on the 357?

Not the C shaped one on a 357, might work on 359. Fixed my original post
 

spencerdiesel

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Ok thanks for the clarification decableguy. Randy what makes a stuffed saw different to pull apart?
cdntbone303 is that for disassembly only? I imagine hearing the cases still holds true for reassembly, thanks
 

Mastermind

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Ok thanks for the clarification decableguy. Randy what makes a stuffed saw different to pull apart?
cdntbone303 is that for disassembly only? I imagine hearing the cases still holds true for reassembly, thanks

Can't use that "regular" case splitter on stuffed saws.
 

MAF143

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what makes a stuffed saw different to pull apart?

The crank stuffer fits over the counterweights of the crankshaft and blocks access to the bearing. This doesn't allow the big C shaped puller to fit down over the crank into the crank case. The puller that mounts to the bar mounting studs works well or like the boss says "heat". Here's a few pix from when I did my 357.

Stuffer off the crank.
stuffer.jpg

Home made case splitter mounted on the bar studs, modified to fit both my MS362 and my husky 357.
splitter.jpg

pulls it apart easily
splitting.jpg

The bearing came out with the crank on the flywheel side so I adapted a puller for that also since I don't have a puller that would fit it.
shaft bearing puller3.jpg
The crank stuffer is still on the side with the bearing and has been taken off of the PTO side of the crank like in the first picture.
 

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The crank stuffer fits over the counterweights of the crankshaft and blocks access to the bearing. This doesn't allow the big C shaped puller to fit down over the crank into the crank case. The puller that mounts to the bar mounting studs works well or like the boss says "heat". Here's a few pix from when I did my 357.

Stuffer off the crank.
View attachment 322855

Home made case splitter mounted on the bar studs, modified to fit both my MS362 and my husky 357.
View attachment 322856

pulls it apart easily
View attachment 322857

The bearing came out with the crank on the flywheel side so I adapted a puller for that also since I don't have a puller that would fit it.
View attachment 322858
The crank stuffer is still on the side with the bearing and has been taken off of the PTO side of the crank like in the first picture.

Excellent post sir. Thank you for taking time to do it.
 

cdntbone303

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Ok thanks for the clarification decableguy. Randy what makes a stuffed saw different to pull apart?
cdntbone303 is that for disassembly only? I imagine hearing the cases still holds true for reassembly, thanks
Disassembly and for assembly you use a heat gun, temp gun, a freezer, and rubber hammer if necessary. There are a few videos on youtube from guys on here or other forums showing the process. Don’t need any special tools if you only do a few here and there. Actually in the Husqvarna 357 service manual it states using a heat gun to split due to stuffers on the crank and maybe assemble.
 

spencerdiesel

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Fabulous info you guys! Mattyo the tools you use in your vids? What’s your channel?
MAF143 awesome info thanks much for all of it, creativity and fabrication are two deficiencies in my brain unfortunately but I’m working on it!
I do have a heat gun and soft hammers.
What about splitting 046/460’s? I have a 46 with a scored jug I’m making another thread on. Thanks again
 

Kiwioilboiler

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Fabulous info you guys! Mattyo the tools you use in your vids? What’s your channel?
MAF143 awesome info thanks much for all of it, creativity and fabrication are two deficiencies in my brain unfortunately but I’m working on it!
I do have a heat gun and soft hammers.
What about splitting 046/460’s? I have a 46 with a scored jug I’m making another thread on. Thanks again
Sounds like you just need a temperature reading gun and your splitting kit is complete. Oh, and a set of thick leather gloves. You're gonna have to hold the hot part with one hand while you tap the crank out of it.
 
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