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Clean chain anyone??

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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I try to noodle a little before I plan to remove a chain. Then they usually get a bath in mineral spirits. Occasionally soap and hot water after that. I do this to keep my wheel from turning black, but it still does. Maybe not as quickly...
 

Philbert

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I have posted extensively on the “other site“ about this. Some of the chains that I receive to sharpen are so gunked up that I can barely recognize them, let alone see any damage, rust, etc. this may not apply to regularly used, well cared for chains.

37418EA9-E1EF-4024-A8F0-1301481A5F09.jpeg

I start with a soak in a commercially available, water based decreaser *that contains sodium hydroxide (lye)*. The sodium hydroxide makes a BIG difference. Usually dilute 50/50 with water, and let the chain soak maybe five minutes.

Soaking helps to remove any crud from between the tie straps, drive links, around the rivets, etc., that just running the chain in “clean wood “does not do. It lets me inspect the chain for any damage, cracks, rust, etc., that I would not normally see.

I rinse the chain in water, place it on an old, plastic, cutting board in the laundry tub, and brush / scrub it with an old toothbrush to remove any remaining crud. Some chains require a second soak. If there is light rust, I use a fine, stainless steel ‘toothbrush’ (tig welding scratch brush), or other rust removal methods.

Rinse, then blow off with compressed air, or place in a 150°F oven for about 20 minutes, on an old baking sheet, if I have a bunch to do. This ensures that I get the water out from between the links, rivets, etc.

After sharpening I spray the chain down with WD-40 in an old baking pan, that is lined with paper towels to absorb the extra lubricant.The WD-40 displaces any moisture, penetrates around the rivets, and allows the thicker bar and chain oil to flow there.

Philbert
 
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SimonHS

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Hillbilly..mebbe..verry clean? Yessir. Pull the chain backwards up, on the down trip it goes under the hot water..
Sharpens niiice.View attachment 327070

I take it that your wife doesn't use the same sink!?

Or do you wash your chains when she is out?
 

Philbert

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I take it that your wife doesn't use the same sink!?

Or do you wash your chains when she is out?

I am careful to not use the same baking pans, etc., that we use for food: garage / estate sales, Goodwill, etc.

Clothes all get washed in the washer and dryer, so the basement ’laundry’ tub is more like a 2-compartment, concrete, ‘utility’ sink, that is also used to clean paint brushes, dirty things, etc. Instead of the kitchen sink!

I once started a thread on A.S. that considered all of the household/ kitchen items we use input ‘manly’ pursuits:

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/chainsaws-and-home-economics.220545/

Philbert
 

Michpatriot

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I take it that your wife doesn't use the same sink!?

Or do you wash your chains when she is out?


She's amazing! So far no problem with the new contraption in the laundry tub..but this also the girl who once saw a old Edelbrock intake and Holley carb that was on a pickup I was going to send to the scrap yard, she didn't say a word and later on I caught her sitting on the fender with her feet in the engine bay with my overalls on wrenching on the intake so it wouldn't go to the scrap yard..she did a fine job even when she got to figuring out how to remove the distributor..
 

slackinoff

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I notice mine get dirty when I'm using a saw that is underpowered for the log size OR the chain needs to be sharpened. Guess the chain gets hot and the oil starts to bake on a little bit? If a make a few cuts in wood sized appropriate for the saw it cleans them back up. I'm not a very experienced saw runner though.
 

AVB

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This might be a little off topic but how are you guys cleaning up a rusty chain? I have found Muriatic Acid does a fair job on some old chains here. Of course you got rinse and oil them after the dip.
 

Philbert

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This might be a little off topic but how are you guys cleaning up a rusty chain? I have found Muriatic Acid does a fair job on some old chains here. Of course you got rinse and oil them after the dip.

Not trying to promote the ‘other’ site, but can’t transfer a dozen, or so, pages from this thread, specifically on this topic:

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

A couple of key points:

- Rust eats metal. Removing the rust does not replace the lost metal. That means that a rusted chain might be weaker and not suitable for use, even after cleaning.

- ‘Inorganic’ acids (hydrochloric, sulfuric, nitric, etc.) can attack metal as well as rust. Plus, they give off nasty gases, and are hard on skin. Avoid using them.

- ‘Organic’ acids (acetic, citric, oxalic, etc.) are better choices. Vinegar (acetic acid) works gradually, but can turn the metal black if left in there too long. Oxalic (found in potatoes and some vegetables) works gradually, but can turn the metal green if left in there too long. My favorite is citric. All of these can be ordered in powder form, inexpensively, over the Internet.

- Commercial rust removers (EvapoRust, WD—40 Rust Removal, etc.) work well but are expensive compared to the above. Avoid ‘naval jelly’ (phosphoric acid) which can attack the chrome plating.

- A good cleaning to remove any grease (above) needs to be done first, so that these chemicals can reach the rust. Cleaning, followed by a light brushing with a scratch brush (also above), Will often remove most of the surface rust on the exterior of the chain. Soaking may be needed to remove rust on the inside surfaces that the brush cannot reach.

Philbert
 

AVB

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I have thought abut just electrolysis with white vinegar the next time I get one in. I have done that with tin engine shrouds. I tried doing a cube once and the brass transfer to the aluminum and aluminum to the brass parts. Ended up with what looked like a gold plated carburetor.

BTW I am member of that other site so no fowl to me.
 

Philbert

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I have thought abut just electrolysis
I have used electrolysis (water and washing soda) on a number of rusted items, and was usually very pleased with the results. I tied it on one chain and it blew some of the chrome plating off the cutters (!!!).

In retrospect, the chrome on that old chain may have been poorly bonded, or corrosion may have seeped underneath. Other guys have reported good results. I got a little ’spooked’ and started experimenting with the different acids. I should try it again sometime.

Let us know how it works for you.

Philbert
 

AVB

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Phil there is one good point you made and that there is a point where the chain or everything else can be too rusty. It like the ZTR deck I repairing where the shell thickness is about 50% rusted of what it was new and I am only patching the rust through areas. There is a point where a replacement will be needed. I am only repairing this one there is no new replacement available and I am hoping the customer can get a couple more seasons before he has to retire the mower because of the deck.
 
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