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chain question

sonoransaw

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Looking for info on this chain. I have two of them. I'll try to see if I can find better ID on them, but both of them have ended up cutting crooked for me. I'm wondering if it's because of the big fins between the rakers and teeth. I do sharpen myself, but I've been careful at it along with keeping raker height even. I switched chains on the same bar and it cuts straight. It seems to only be these chains. Can I modify them, or are they just junk? Thanks....
acRInio.jpg
 

Philbert

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Welcome to OPE Forum!

That is a very common Oregon Type 91 chain: 3/8" low profile, 0.050" gauge. Sold in most every hardware store and home center in the US. Just need to count the drive links (points on the bottom of the chain). 56 drive links will be sold as an 'S56' chain. 62 drive links will be sold as 'S62'. Etc.

The 'fins' on the top are a low-kickback feature. If they are always 2 in a row, as in the photo, you have a 'skip-tooth' chain (extra space between cutters) which is sold on a lot of pole saws and lower powered saws. The skip-tooth version of this chain is hard to find retail - just by buy the 'S?' version with the correct number of drive links.

EDIT: the solid low-kickback bumpers ('fins') are an older style. That chain has been around a long time. Newer versions will look different.

Always hard to tell from a photo alone, but it looks like your Right hand cutter is longer than your Left hand cutter. Different cutter lengths, different cutter angles, along with different depth gauge ('raker') heights can cause a chain to pull to one side. So can a worn bar, although, it sounds like you checked this out with a different chain.

Short answer: carefully check the lengths and angles of each cutter along with the depth gauges. Or pick up some new chains. Please let us know what happens!


Philbert
 

sonoransaw

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Thanks for the welcome, Philbert! And the thorough comments....

I was under the impression that the size of the teeth (cutters) was irrelevant, as long as they were sharp and the rakers were filed down to the correct depth relative to the teeth. I've watched several youtube vids where they purposely filed the teeth different lengths and the chain still cut straight because the rakers were correctly done with a gauge. I have quite a few other chains which I also file, but none of them cut on a curve like these, so I was wondering if the fault was in those anti-kickback fins....
 

Marshy

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As long as the depth gauge is adjusted to the individual cutter tooth then it would not be a factor and will cut properly. The key is having the proper raker gauge. .
 

Chainsaw Addict

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What saw (s) are you are you using and what kind of wood do cut?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Wonkydonkey

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I would say maybe . But looking at the only the 2 teeth you’ve shown in the pic..I’d say your filing needs a bit more attention first. To me there’s to much gullet and to little hook. What do the rest of the teef look like.
Normally most guys file one side better than the other, ie if your left or right handed.



How are you filing your chains, what guide you using ?

And if you asked me how to file those “fins” idk..

And Welcome :D
 
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Philbert

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I was under the impression that the size of the teeth (cutters) was irrelevant, as long as they were sharp and the rakers were filed down to the correct depth relative to the teeth. . . . I was wondering if the fault was in those anti-kickback fins....
There are a lot of opinions that people try to push as facts on-line: trust mine and ignore the others (!)

The 'tooth length does not matter' crowd are usually using a progressive depth gauge tool, not the standard offset one that you are probably using. If that statement needs explanation, you should stick with keeping all your cutters close to the same length. It is what manufacturers like STIHL and Oregon recommend, and they only have 75+ years engineering this stuff. As the length of your cutter changes, so does the height and the width of the kerf. If all of your cutters are the same, you will get a smoother and more efficient cut. If adjacent, or sequential cutters differ in height or width, the chain will cut, but not as smoothly.
Screen shot 2014-05-30 at 10.11.10 PM.png Screen shot 2014-05-30 at 10.26.09 PM.png

A lot of guys also like to declare their disdain for 'safety chain' and make all kinds of comments about reduced kickback features like bumper tie straps (which you have) or bumper drive links (newer chains). Some blame these features for global warming and ethanol in gasoline. On long bars (say, greater that 24") fully buried in the wood, these bumpers can reduce chip clearance and slow cutting. If you are bore cutting with the tip, they can slow cutting (but still work).

From the photos of your chain, I doubt that either of these apply to you. But with skip tooth chain (which you appear to have) they will give you smoother cuts on smaller diameter branches.

Seriously, I have seen guys win chainsaw races with low kickback chain, due to good cutting technique over magic, super secret chain filing. They cut fine.

Again, curved cuts are almost always due to unequal cutters, unequal depth gauges, or sloppy bar grooves. Unless you are really close to Area 51.

Philbert
 
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sonoransaw

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Yeah, I might not have the proper raker gauge. I'll post that later....

Saw I was using was a smaller Jonsered. Wood is a mix, but mostly harder mesquite here in the desert where I live.

I hear you, Wonky....I'm not gonna claim to be good at this (yet)....No doubt my sharpening leaves something to be desired. I'll see about a better perspective....Thanks for the welcome...

Thanks for your additional wisdom, Philbert. I believe everything you're saying...I'm wondering if maybe the other chains I have are just more forgiving of my mediocre sharpening job than these....???
 

Philbert

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I'm wondering if maybe the other chains I have are just more forgiving of my mediocre sharpening job than these....???
Chains get pickier as they approach end-of-life condition (people just get grumpier). Small differences / errors add up. The relationship with the depth gauge changes (that 'progressive' thing - nothing to do with Bernie Sanders). So newer chains may be more forgiving.

I will make you the offer I have made to others: send me the 2 chains, and I will return them ready to cut. Just cover postage each way. I can diagnose them and 'prove' my rantings (*keep in mind that postage could add up to the cost of a new chain, depending on where you buy it). Send me a P.M. if interested.

Philbert

 

sonoransaw

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Thanks, Philbert....I'll consider that offer...quite generous of you, and would probably help me with my own quest to get better at it...

Here's a few more pics I took this evening that might or might not help in this discussion/diagnosis...As well as the cheap gauge I used. I picked up a "progressive" Husky gauge tonight and I'm going to give that a try...

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3browns

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I will probably embarrass myself by opening my mouth but in the second from bottom pic it looks to me that the 3 cutters you focused on need some material removed from the gullets
 
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CR888

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Your cutters don't look too bad to me. I think this is a depth gauge issue, I can see some difference between L & R. Does the bar cut to the right? Clean your bar & inspect it too, on a flat surface will the bar balance being sat on the rails or does it want to fall over to one side? Don't forget as the chain cutter get worn back those fins or ramps act a bit like depth gauges too. They may not be directly in front of cutter but I make sure they are in correct spec with correct depth gauge height. I imagine with the skip sequence where you have ramp, ramp, L-cutter, ramp, ramp, R-cutter, the height of the ramps becomes more important.
 

sonoransaw

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3browns, you're probably right....I'm just learning about proper filing....

Thanks, CR888...I think it is to the right...I'm not keen on having to file those fins (rather just go with a different chain), but no doubt you're right about them functioning as depth gauges....I'll try testing the bar like you suggested...Learning new tricks every time I come on here...
 

3browns

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It’s hard to get hook on semi chisel cutters. Gotta keep the file down a hair lower to get it to bite on its own, which will also sacrifice a little durability unfortunately

Truth

And I have found that most "flat plate" filing guides hold the file a bit too high for semi chisel

This type

iu
 
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