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Chain grinder offset, swivel or on the side?

Socalmisfit

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So I have a tecomech grinder but the 10 degree offset is on the side not the swivel base. So you adjust forward or back for right and left teeth. Was wondering if anyone has tested both types and which you liked better. I feel like with the offset forward and back the teeth are different. I haven’t used a swivel base type yet. Seems like recently cuts have been off to one side or the other. I set rakers with a progressive gauge so each tooth is set to itself. And the chain adjustment on the saw is right also. Not sure how often everyone changes their bars, but I put them on a flat surface and their seems to be no bend. A little play in the bar guide but nothing real crazy. Might just be the chain is wore out, they are at their last grind. Thanks guys.
 

Ford3000

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I hope someone comes along and answers this.
Personally no experience in grinding, but ordered a
grinder so curious to learn what's what with them.

What model Tecomech have you got.
 

Socalmisfit

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I hope someone comes along and answers this.
Personally no experience in grinding, but ordered a
grinder so curious to learn what's what with them.

What model Tecomech have you got.
The jolly evo. It’s a nice grinder just seems off a little. I’m looking at the next one up from it. The one with the hydraulic clamp looks like it is adjust forward and back now too. But the next one up from the Jolly has the swivel base, and the regular clamp.

grinding is cool, chains are like new when I get done with them. I always clean the chain, rinse, and dry before grinding. Helps out a lot, doesn’t gun up the wheel as much, pretty much not at all. Take small bites from the chain. Go over it 2-3 times if it’s rocked hard so you don’t heat it up. If you use a progressive raker gauge you are suppose to be able to take the bad one down and leave the rest the same size since you are filing every raker to their own tooth. Progressive raker gauge is the way to go in my opinion, I won’t go back. I don’t use the grinder to do the rakers I file them down after I’m done grinding the chain. You will figure out which angles you like. I run 55 degrees and 25 degrees with the 10 degree offset on full chisel. Don’t use much semi chisel, if I did might go 60, 27-30. Just because of the round corner. No offset on semichisel either. The 55 25 degree angles are suppose to help the chain last a little longer, but harder for the saw to pull. I run a 372 and a 395 and they can pull these degrees just fine. Everything I get is tree service wood so it is dirty. If I was getting clean logs I might try 60, 25-30 but I like these numbers.
 

Ford3000

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Is that 10 degree offset like dropping the file handle 10 degrees
when hand filing, or does it mean something else altogether.

You could use calipers to measure the ground teeth on one side of
the chain, then set the grinder to grind the cutters on the other side
to the same spec, that should keep it from cutting sideways, unless
you also alter some other setting.
 

huskihl

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If you’re using the slide offset (I don’t), slide it toward you for doing RH cutters, away from you for LH cutters
 

farminkarman

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I grind my chains at 55/25/0. I tried offset grind years ago and couldn't tell a difference so I just stick with what works.

+1
I tried doing the offset, but didn’t notice any difference, so I leave it at zero. I run an Oregon 620 which I think is the same as a Tecomec super jolly
 

SimonHS

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Just for piece of mind, I use a cheap digital micrometer from HF when switching sides and check after a couple teeth.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Socalmisfit

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If you’re using the slide offset (I don’t), slide it toward you for doing RH cutters, away from you for LH cutters
Yeah I do that but 1 side just looks off from the other. I measure and they are close it’s just weird.
 

Socalmisfit

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Just for piece of mind, I use a cheap digital micrometer from HF when switching sides and check after a couple teeth.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I measure them but if they are off by anything it is nothing really. I’ll start setting at zero and see if they are better.
 

Socalmisfit

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Is that 10 degree offset like dropping the file handle 10 degrees
when hand filing, or does it mean something else altogether.

You could use calipers to measure the ground teeth on one side of
the chain, then set the grinder to grind the cutters on the other side
to the same spec, that should keep it from cutting sideways, unless
you also alter some other setting.
Yes it is the 10 degrees like with the file. In theory you shouldn’t have to measure, the grinder should grind both sides the same when you swivel it. So if they are off than the grinder is off. I’ll check it next time I grind at 0 offset and see how it acts.
 

Socalmisfit

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I grind my chains at 55/25/0. I tried offset grind years ago and couldn't tell a difference so I just stick with what works.
I do like these numbers. I’ve tried 60 30 and the chain goes dull way too quick. Might try 60 25 on 1 next time and see how I like it.
 

huskihl

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Yeah I do that but 1 side just looks off from the other. I measure and they are close it’s just weird.
Your vise isn’t centered on the wheel if the left and right sides aren’t the same. It’s also possible that your slide scale is off a degree or two
 
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blades

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Huh? If the vise is set so that the center line of wheel is centered on the center of the chain both sides ( in theory) should be the same when swiveled an equal amount. the scales are not perfect. they are close. additionaly there is a bit of finesse involved as one can cause some offset by how you operate the down stroke of the head. this becomes more pronounced as the unit ages.
 

huskihl

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If the vise is set so that the center line of wheel is centered on the center of the chain both sides ( in theory) should be the same when swiveled an equal amount
Correct.
And Oregon’s method of centering the vise is to use a straightedge in the vise and set it “visually”. I’m not thinking “visually” is going to get the cutters within a few thousandths of each other like we’re trying to do.
 

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There seem to be 2 discussions here:
- getting the 10° ‘down angle’, and
- getting R and L cutters the same length?

The down angle thing depends on the grinder: either it has the tilting vise, or it doesn’t. On some grinders the instructions say the down angle can be approximated in other ways.

Oregon swears that it increases cutting performance with some chains. STIHL says ‘don’t do it’. I did not personally notice a difference in my cutting, and ‘no down angle’ let’s me use a number of filing guides for field touch ups in-between grinding. So I don’t do it unless someone asks.

These grinders are only semi-precision machines. The wheel can be centered on most, but this changes as the wheel wears and it’s diameter changes. Plus, cutters on one side are farther away.

I typically grind all the Left side cutters first; back the chain positioning dog off 1/4 turn; grind one Right side test cutter: hold the R test cutter back-to-back with a L cutter to visually compare length; and adjust the positioning dog accordingly. This quickly becomes automatic.

Philbert
 

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