Carburetor question

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I know this is probably a dumb question but I had my walbro rwj4 apart the other day and when I went to put it back together I torn the valve diaphragm. Would it be safe to run with this rip it's not on any of the valves it's torn on the outside edge of it? Maybe put a little glob of moto seal on the rip? I know I could trail and error but getting the saw for 250$ is a once in a life time thing I'm to paranoid that I'll mess it up but on the other hand I've got a lot of work that still needs to be done with not much time left. It rains 9 months out of the year here

 

[Stem]

pics of where its torn? It'll run but could leak. better off just fixing it.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

pics of where its torn? It'll run but could leak. better off just fixing it.

its right next to where the screw goes

 

[Stem]

@StihlEchoingHusky oh hell, run it.

 

[EFSM]

No problem whatsoever. BTW no sealant that I've found works in carburetors.

 

[pbillyi69]

that tear wont make a difference at all. just put it back with the torn bit as close to where it goes making sure that its not folded under and it will run fine

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I ended up trying it couldn't get the saw to tune right what so ever. As I'm writing this I recall I did do a full tear down and clean up of it the other night, original cylinder and piston never taken apart guy who owned it ran it daily felling oak since 2012 so you could imagine there was a thick layer of carbon on the exhaust port so much so I had to use a mixture of diamond burrs and rubber polishing bits to get it cleaned up. I did just read today something about a small oring behind the clutch on these saws could my neglect on that cause the saw to tune that hard? I had the low screw almost completely backed out before it started to sound rich. Compression isn't perfect but I can pick up the power head by the starter and it takes a good 25 to 30 seconds before it starts to unwind more.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Spraying it out using carb cleaner with the fuel screen, diaphrams, metering assembly and adjustment screws removed might get it working. Probably no need to remove welch plugs. Did you check the metering assembly height?

 

[hacskaroly]

so you could imagine there was a thick layer of carbon on the exhaust port so much so I had to use a mixture of diamond burrs and rubber polishing bits to get it cleaned up.

Next time, you can try Seafoam on the carbon, it will help break it down or wipe off. I use it all the time on saws that have excessive carbon and it helps quite a bit without risking scratching the metal (if you are concerned about that). I use it both on cylinders and piston heads. I also soak carbon crusted spark plugs in Seafoam and most of the time the carbon wipes off or easily brushes off with a brass bristle brush.

 

[Coupe]

Go for it that won't bother the saw.

 

[huskihl]

Run Dominator at 32:1. No carbon issues

 

[Chainmale]

I ended up trying it couldn't get the saw to tune right what so ever. As I'm writing this I recall I did do a full tear down and clean up of it the other night, original cylinder and piston never taken apart guy who owned it ran it daily felling oak since 2012 so you could imagine there was a thick layer of carbon on the exhaust port so much so I had to use a mixture of diamond burrs and rubber polishing bits to get it cleaned up. I did just read today something about a small oring behind the clutch on these saws could my neglect on that cause the saw to tune that hard? I had the low screw almost completely backed out before it started to sound rich. Compression isn't perfect but I can pick up the power head by the starter and it takes a good 25 to 30 seconds before it starts to unwind more.

Is the clutch on? Could have an air leak if it's off?