Can this crankcase be saved? Should it be?

[DigB]

I am looking for suggestions on how to repair this crankcase, if it is even worthwhile, and some other help with this 266SG that I plan to build into a 272. It is cracked through, but not into the threads for the oil filler.


And here is the other side:


My first thought is to find a magnesium welder in my area, Cumberland County Pennsylvania. Any recommendations or shout-ins? I have asked around but no luck.

I wonder if any of those aluminum solder products could work here?

Then there's glue. Maybe I could glue a reinforcing sheet on each side. And add some rivets for suspenders.

Or I could buy a new aftermarket crankcase. Do they accommodate the heated handle wiring?

But there are more challenges. I have have a collection of 61 parts that will fill in most of what is missing, but not the two-piece ignition. I would like to hear about peoples' experience with the very cheap ones on ebay, or others. I have the module with the spark lead, and it meters OK.

For heat to the upper handle, somewhere I have some resistance wire that I used to make heated gloves, but I haven't laid my hands on it yet. I believe it was beadalon. It looks like I will need almost 30 inches measuring 3-4 ohms. Recommendations?

One more thing. Even though the black tag starts with a 7, it has a metal tank and there is a smidge of corrosion where is touches the ground. What's the best treatment there?


I should note that in this part of Pennsylvania it does not get cold any more and I am not required to cut any day, let alone one that is cold enough to warrant heat. So this is truly a recreational project. And as always, I am trying to make sure I can continue to say with pride that it is cheaper than golf.

Thanks friends. Don

 

[AlfA01]

@srcarr52

 

[Mastermind]

Those cases ain't tough to find. Surely someone has one....

 

[beaglebriar]

@Czed Dave might have one kicking around. He has a *s-wordpile of 2 series saws.

 

[Mastermind]

@Czed Dave might have one kicking around. He has a *s-wordpile of 2 series saws.

Is *s-wordpile really even a word?

 

[beaglebriar]

Is *s-wordpile really even a word?

Google it.

 

[Stump Shot]

I might have something lying around here.
Also why not build it as a 266, they are pretty darn good runners.

 

[Stump Shot]

Chinese coils are so, so. I haven't seen any of the Magnetron ones from South America in some time.
OEM is still available last I checked at a premium price.
My experience is if you need to change one, might as well change them both, as the other won't be far behind honking out.

 

[Czed]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/266se-carcass-mostly-stripped.339732/#post-7175745
Here's one.
I'm emotionally and financially attached to my *s-wordpile.
They have buyer's when completed.

 

[Czed]

Make it a 266

 

[Stump Shot]

@Tor R might have some insight on the heated handle repairs.

 

[srcarr52]

@srcarr52

It could be welded but it's a lot of work for something that is cosmetic. By the time you split the case, remove the tank vent, get it clean, weld, finish welds and reassemble it's probably not worth it. With the crack right beside the oil fill threads and boss it's almost guarantied to get a little out of shape and need some grinding attention.

I'd just drill the end of the crack and run it.

 

[Tor R]

Your front handle should have resistance 4 ohm +/- 0.5 ohm.
That count for any XPG/SG front handle bars.
Those handle bars has a very simple element, Husqvarna used the same heat element from around 1980 up to the 5xx class.

 

[DigB]

Your front handle should have resistance 4 ohm +/- 0.5 ohm.
That count for any XPG/SG front handle bars.
Those handle bars has a very simple element, Husqvarna used the same heat element from around 1980 up to the 5xx class.

Thanks Tor. Is the element integral to the bar or can it be had separately? I was planning to snake a hot wire through the bar, just to see if it would work. The generator has good resistance but the lead wire is mostly bare. I'm thinking shrink tube. The rear handle inserts read good. I didn't check the switch yet.

I'm still wondering if a new aftermarket crankcase would be trouble for the heat wiring.

 

[DigB]

It could be welded but it's a lot of work for something that is cosmetic. By the time you split the case, remove the tank vent, get it clean, weld, finish welds and reassemble it's probably not worth it. With the crack right beside the oil fill threads and boss it's almost guarantied to get a little out of shape and need some grinding attention.

I'd just drill the end of the crack and run it.

Thank you. I am not thinking of it as entirely cosmetic since the crack is so long and so close to the top cover screw hole, but I like your suggestion. I would feel compelled to add something at the outboard end to give it some support, maybe just a through bolt with big washers on each side.

 

[Tor R]

Thanks Tor. Is the element integral to the bar or can it be had separately? I was planning to snake a hot wire through the bar, just to see if it would work. The generator has good resistance but the lead wire is mostly bare. I'm thinking shrink tube. The rear handle inserts read good. I didn't check the switch yet.

I'm still wondering if a new aftermarket crankcase would be trouble for the heat wiring.

you can’t buy the heat element separately, unfortantly.

But......there is alot bend xpg/sg handles around, if you get over one, here is how to do it.

The heating element always sit on the inner side of the handle, ie, direction top cover.
Use a sharpie and cut until your hitting the aluminium or close to it (upper side) be very careful on the side close to the clutch cover since the heat element goes around the handle there (wires are attached to the element there), wrap off the plastic. Be careful though because they’ve used glue when they build those handles.
Buy a thick shrink tube, 3:1, if its a glue type its perfect.

if you find several xpg handles, the 5xx serie has the best heat element, but its a tad shorter then the 2xx/3xx element, if I could pick I would take 5xx element anyday.

 

[DigB]

I might have something lying around here.
Also why not build it as a 266, they are pretty darn good runners.

Well, I have a few 266s. And I built several 272s on 61 bodies. But the 272s are all gone. So I thought I would make another and see how it goes. But I agree the 266s are good. I bought one new in 1984 I think and it still has 165# of compression after years of heavy use as my only saw for firewood.

 

[DigB]

Those cases ain't tough to find. Surely someone has one....

I am seeing cases and case halves for 162, 266, 61 for pretty reasonable priceson ebay.

 

[DigB]

you can’t buy the heat element separately, unfortantly.

But......there is alot bend xpg/sg handles around, if you get over one, here is how to do it.

The heating element always sit on the inner side of the handle, ie, direction top cover.
Use a sharpie and cut until your hitting the aluminium or close to it (upper side) be very careful on the side close to the clutch cover since the heat element goes around the handle there (wires are attached to the element there), wrap off the plastic. Be careful though because they’ve used glue when they build those handles.
Buy a thick shrink tube, 3:1, if its a glue type its perfect.

if you find several xpg handles, the 5xx serie has the best heat element, but its a tad shorter then the 2xx/3xx element, if I could pick I would take 5xx element anyday.

Hey Tor several years ago we talked about enlarging the 254 intake elbow and you questioned whether it could ever be big enough to supply an 87 carb. Did you ever get to a conclusion?

And I just went rummaging in my pile -- is the heated setup on my 154SG the same as the 266? They are about the same vintage.

 

[Michael Rupley]

I have a 61 case for $20. If I fit it into a large flat rate box you can be going for less than the cost of a good putter (golf).