Briggs Stratton 5 hp with auxillary pto.

[mac's woodshop]

Model135297- 0195 2nd pto is because it is on TroyBilt tiller, operates the reverse rotation. Engine intake manifold is cracked, my dumb play! If it cannot be repaired, I wonder if another engine can be swapped. there are many 5 hp Briggs used available, but I don't suppose they all have the aux 2nd PTO? Is it possible to swap the rear crankcase cover from the broken engine to a more common but similar Briggs engine. Or are the internal parts completely different? Any thoughts? I have not yet removed the rear case cover to see how it is made internally. Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with these engines.

 

[EFSM]

Model135297- 0195 2nd pto is because it is on TroyBilt tiller, operates the reverse rotation. Engine intake manifold is cracked, my dumb play! If it cannot be repaired, I wonder if another engine can be swapped. there are many 5 hp Briggs used available, but I don't suppose they all have the aux 2nd PTO? Is it possible to swap the rear crankcase cover from the broken engine to a more common but similar Briggs engine. Or are the internal parts completely different? Any thoughts? I have not yet removed the rear case cover to see how it is made internally. Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with these engines.

The reverse shaft is an extended camshaft. I suppose of the sump and cam are still good, you could probably swap them over, but I’ve never done that. There has been no replacement for those engines for many years.

 

[Hunter72]

I have the troy built poney with the same motor that lost compression . I am going to use a harbor frieght motor on it but there will be no reverse.
You are welcome to the old motor if you can pick it up. P.M. me we are both in Il. I am up on northern border.

 

[erikb]

Mac, your sump cover and camshaft can indeed be swapped over to another 5hp briggs.
I have a couple of those engines if you are in the market.

 

[mac's woodshop]

I have the troy built poney with the same motor that lost compression . I am going to use a harbor frieght motor on it but there will be no reverse.
You are welcome to the old motor if you can pick it up. P.M. me we are both in Il. I am up on northern border.

I'm deep southern Illinois. Thanks anyway. Best luck. You are correct I think. Another motor will work minus reverse, it's handy but not crucial unless tight spaces, which is me. Thank you.

 

[dangerousatom]

Post a picture of the cracked manifold
.
.

 

[EFSM]

I'm deep southern Illinois. Thanks anyway. Best luck. You are correct I think. Another motor will work minus reverse, it's handy but not crucial unless tight spaces, which is me. Thank you.

How deep in S IL? 62906 is my area code.

 

[mac's woodshop]

How deep in S IL? 62906 is my area

How deep in S IL? 62906 is my area code.

I am Pinckneyville.

 

[mac's woodshop]

Post a picture of the cracked manifold
.
.

I engaged the tiller, thought wheels were out, but not true. Lurched forward and the gas tank hit an object. The design of this is such that the 2 bolt holes in the manifold pull the carb tight but also act as structure. Holds up the carb as well as gas tank. There is one bracket and bolt below gas tank. Anyway, the force cracked this one bolt hole/ ear/ boss. I am going to try JB Weld Aluminum see if that might put it back together. Don't have much to loose by trying. If that don't work, will move on to swap out another engine. Need to have a bumper in front of the machine because this arrangement does not withstand much force from bumping into something by mistake. (Sort of like modern cars, huh?)
Pictures of the cracks.

 

[dangerousatom]

Mmm that is a pretty bas design idea using the through bolts as bracketry for the tank.

Do you have welder or a neighbor who does. Yes its cast iron but Im not suggesting welding the whole thing just spot welding the outside edge right over the crack, and JB-welding the crack itself. If it were me Id fab up a 1/8" steel flange to match the cracked flange and put that in between the carb and the block. The one hole is without crack and it will help support the cracked parts once repaired. An 1/8" wont push things out so much to make the tank not fit or other misalignments Id assume.

 

[066 redeye]

As above.
when I saw the pics was thinking plate as well.

 

[Stihl036]

Here's my 1982 Troy Bilt Pony. I picked it up a couple of months ago with a seized engine for $25.00. The tines were wore out and since replaced. I got the motor freed up and running and did some tilling for maybe 20 minutes and left it running above idle in the shade of a tree. It was running great and I was feeling good! After 15 minutes of running in the shade tree the connecting rod broke making a terrible noise. The wife and I were working in the garden 100ft. away when all hell broke loose. I've not taken the engine apart but the piston does not move and both ends of the crank shaft move as one.

I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 224cc Predator engine for $150.00. It is a great running engine. I don't have reverse any longer and due to the length of the crank shaft I only have the 'slow' ground speed. This works out fine for me as that is the only speed I need. It would be easy to redrill the tiller where the engine mounts to get both speeds to operate. Speed change means sliding the drive belt over.

I have been told by people who know that the parts on the pto engine can all be transferred over to another similar 5hp Briggs. Maybe I'll do that one day if I ever get around to taking the blown motor apart.

I've got a couple of Troy Bilt Horse tillers from the 1980's that I use for tilling in corn stalks and general larger scale tilling.

This pony makes an excellent cultivating tiller when the garden is in full bloom. I'll be 70 years old shortly and do appreciate the smaller Pony tiller for the task that it is able to perform. The Horse model is a real hoss when it comes to short quick turns cultivating. I bought my first Horse brand new in 1983. It was $1,200 back then.

 

[mac's woodshop]

Actually this block is aluminum. I have JB welded. Put back together. It now starts. I have something HooJarred in the linkage because it will only idle, not speed up. Will get that figured out. The idea of welding the outside edge of the flange was probably something would have been a better aproach. We shall see in time. I have figured out that bumper in front is pretty much a mandatory! I will be getting or fabricating something on that order. This tiller had electric start, I was reluctant to give up on it. All the bells and whistles, my Mother bought it. We should have put her in charge of buying the equipment years ago!!!!

 

[mac's woodshop]

It looks like that predator engine fit right in there like it was made for it!! Very good backup plan, Thanks for all comments, y'all.