HELP! Bore cutting with longer bars

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Bore cutting with a short bar (16"-20") is easy for me, but I've been struggling with my 28" light bar. I can't get my plunge started without a lot of kickback.

I do it like this excellent video shows. Anyone get a tip for starting the plunge using a long bar?

 

[redline4]

Tsumura bar?
I quit using mine to do any type of bore cut after it kicking back, slamming into the tree and splitting the bar tip with the chain.
No issues with my Stihl light bar.

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

It's a Stihl 28" ES Light on my 500i.

I left the stump from the last ash tree I took down and I plan on going out and practicing some tomorrow. I'm not sure why it's giving me so much trouble. I must be doing something stupid.

 

[beaglebriar]

It's all about the angle of attack. I'll usually get it started from the rear of the tree and walk it in. Kind of easier to do than explain type of thing...

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Right I don't have any problems setting the cut and making the turn into the plunge with the shorter bars. But on my 28" I get a lot of kickback. I'll practice more tomorrow and see if I can describe it better.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

After watching the video I'd say that I'm not (Piss revving) my saw enough! Haha.
I generally use a 24,28,or 32" . The start of you bore HAS to trap the tip before you pivot or its gonna grab .
If your getting kickbacks during the bore after the tip is plunged in ,it might be your not pushing the saw hard enough in the cut and its "top baring "the cut. Make sure with a long bar you really have a firm grip and push that top handle hard to keep the bottom of the bar feeding. You can still plunge strait through even while pushing.

 

[Ketchup]

It's all about the angle of attack. I'll usually get it started from the rear of the tree and walk it in. Kind of easier to do than explain type of thing...

^This. Cut more from behind the tree before you bring the saw around perpendicular to the face. Or if you can’t get far enough away, start the plunge with a smaller saw. I’ve had to do that several times 20-30’ up. You can’t get very far from the trunk when you’re standing in spikes. Long bars are heavy too, so starting with a small saw keeps me accurate.

 

[huskihl]

Light bar isn’t helping either. Lack of mass and kickbacks are amplified.

But like mentioned, start with the bottom of the bar. The more chatter you get, the more you need to do with the bottom.

A duller chain and higher rakers will both help

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

Are your longer chains full comp as the 20" probably is?

I run full comp on even my 32" bars because it lessens kickback or a sudden pull, especially when I am trying to cut small loose branches. I have rarely used my bigger bars running 30RC for boring, but, when I do I try to keep the bar parallel in the cut without the nose diving, I keep the revs high.

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Yes, Full comp / full chisel. I haven't had a chance to get out today and do some test cuts on a stump. Probably won't happen till tomorrow.

 

[Loony661]

Tree species and raker height go hand in hand. Ash (especially dead, beatle infested) is very dense and hard, and kicks back more than other species, IME. Keep the rakers in-check and not too aggressive. Also, I bore and plunge cut 95% of the trees I fell in the woods - I usually “back bar” and let it walk itself in. The key is to get the chain up to speed right before you engage the wood, and have your muscles prepared to support the resistance. If you ”limp wrist” it so to speak, it will buck and bite you every time.

 

[beaglebriar]

Tree species and raker height go hand in hand. Ash (especially dead, beatle infested) is very dense and hard, and kicks back more than other species, IME. Keep the rakers in-check and not too aggressive. Also, I bore and plunge cut 95% of the trees I fell in the woods - I usually “back bar” and let it walk itself in. The key is to get the chain up to speed right before you engage the wood, and have your muscles prepared to support the resistance. If you ”limp wrist” it so to speak, it will buck and bite you every time.

I've had that dead Ash lock my chain up like it wasn't oiling several times. Mainly long cuts in big trees while bucking.

On another note.. with trees we have around here there's rarely a need for anything over a two foot bar. @Hundred Acre Wood lives somewhere near me not exactly sure where. I've taken down 40+ inch yard trees with a two foot bar and pretty much anything smaller use a 20 incher. If you don't mind trimming the root flare you can do a lot with a 20. It has to be trimmed up before you skid it anyway.

I prefer to bore in from both sides because it helps keep the back cut level. I almost always miss the mark when plunging completely through a tree so I generally do this on anything I cut. But then again I don't do it every day either...not a pro but I do enjoy cutting trees and the thought process behind it.

 

[Loony661]

I've had that dead Ash lock my chain up like it wasn't oiling several times. Mainly long cuts in big trees while bucking.

On another note.. with trees we have around here there's rarely a need for anything over a two foot bar. @Hundred Acre Wood lives somewhere near me not exactly sure where. I've taken down 40+ inch yard trees with a two foot bar and pretty much anything smaller use a 20 incher. If you don't mind trimming the root flare you can do a lot with a 20. It has to be trimmed up before you skid it anyway.

I prefer to bore in from both sides because it helps keep the back cut level. I almost always miss the mark when plunging completely through a tree so I generally do this on anything I cut. But then again I don't do it every day either...not a pro but I do enjoy cutting trees and the thought process behind it.

Very similar to here. I prefer 25” bars on my saws, mostly just because that’s what I’m used to, however quite a few other local loggers here still use a 20” daily. Everything gets plunged from both sides here usually as well.

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

I've had that dead Ash lock my chain up like it wasn't oiling several times. Mainly long cuts in big trees while bucking.

On another note.. with trees we have around here there's rarely a need for anything over a two foot bar. @Hundred Acre Wood lives somewhere near me not exactly sure where. I've taken down 40+ inch yard trees with a two foot bar and pretty much anything smaller use a 20 incher. If you don't mind trimming the root flare you can do a lot with a 20. It has to be trimmed up before you skid it anyway.

I prefer to bore in from both sides because it helps keep the back cut level. I almost always miss the mark when plunging completely through a tree so I generally do this on anything I cut. But then again I don't do it every day either...not a pro but I do enjoy cutting trees and the thought process behind it.

I have a 25" bar, but I wanted the 28" light bar because it's actually lighter and would save me some cuts once in a while.

Cut for years with a 20" bar and you can do just about anything around here with that length with a little extra work. Dead ash can be a tough nut sometimes, but I have no problem bore cutting with that bar.

 

[beaglebriar]

I have a 25" bar, but I wanted the 28" light bar because it's actually lighter and would save me some cuts once in a while.

Cut for years with a 20" bar and you can do just about anything around here with that length with a little extra work. Dead ash can be a tough nut sometimes, but I have no problem bore cutting with that bar.

Understandable. I have a 42" here if you want to get real adventurous. Sucks to file though. Lol

 

[pwheel]

I have a 25" bar, but I wanted the 28" light bar because it's actually lighter and would save me some cuts once in a while.

A 28" bar isn't that much longer than a 25" bar, so it might have more to do with the 28" chain. If you're cutting tough wood like ash, the raker height is critical and has to be fine-tuned to the tree species. Hope this helps.

 

[davidwyby]

Stihl semi chis safety chain cuts and bores really nice.

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

Bore cut this 17" DBH dead Ash with the 28" bar for practice. Way too much kickback getting the plunge started. I definitely think it's the chain, and not just the extra chain speed from the longer bar. It's really grabby. It's a new bar and chain, so I'll keep at it and see if it settles down with some more use.

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions!

 

[Loony661]

Bore cut this 17" DBH dead Ash with the 28" bar for practice. Way too much kickback getting the plunge started. I definitely think it's the chain, and not just the extra chain speed from the longer bar. It's really grabby. It's a new bar and chain, so I'll keep at it and see if it settles down with some more use.

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions!

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If you live near me, I would be happy to connect and observe your way of boring in, and share what I do that works for me.

 

[davidwyby]

@Hundred Acre Wood square skip?