Best Sthil bar & chain

[Fuddyduddy]

I have a Sthil MS291 and was thinking about putting a 24" bar & chain on it. Pros-cons?
I've heard it will run slower?
If so, I need to know gauge, pitch, # links?
Otherwise I'll stay with 20", either way a carbide tip chain. Best one to get? Thanks.

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[PA Dan]

I have a Sthil MS291 and was thinking about putting a 24" bar & chain on it. Pros-cons?
I've heard it will run slower?
If so, I need to know gauge, pitch, # links?
Otherwise I'll stay with 20", either way a carbide tip chain. Best one to get? Thanks.

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Why carbide tip chain? What wood are you cutting and what conditions?

 

[Fuddyduddy]

Some fairly large ones sometimes, oak usually or locust.
I heard carbide is the best, lasts longer, not that much more expensive.

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[PA Dan]

Some fairly large ones sometimes, oak usually or locust.
I heard carbide is the best, lasts longer, not that much more expensive.

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Unless it's really dirty wood you don't need a carbide. With the carbide you can't sharpen it with your file or grinder. If your cutting big oak I would stay with the 20" bar on the 291.

 

[Cooper264]

Too add to the above posts, the carbide chains are very unpractical unless your wood literally has like an entire woven fence grown into it. You cant sharpen them and they are super expensive. The 291 being a 55cc saw (maybe 56 on a good day), a 24" bar is ALOT. If you are cutting nothing but soft pine, the 24" will still be a bear for that saw to pull. If your cutting something like oak, I would definitely go with a 20". It is perfect for this saw, still not going to give performance results, but for as a homeowner saw, its perfect. If your cutting oak larger than 24" I would definitely trying a bigger saw.

I picked up one of the new husky 562xp's about a year and a half ago and was absolutely blown away by its performance with a 20" bar. I instantly went to ebay, got a full wrap west coast kit and a 24' bar and slapped er on. I thought I had found the best saw in the world. Super light and lots of power. Used it a few times in 20-30" red oak, then switched back to a 461 and a 660 for a day or two and I was dumbfounded. For not much more weight, I could cut almost twice as fast. Nothing makes up for displacement. Plain and Simple. Small saws just aren't built for big bars

And remember, a 562xp is a 60cc saw and has alot of torque compaired to most other 60cc saws. so I would really be weary about putting a 24 on a 291

 

[Nutball]

For not much more weight, I could cut almost twice as fast. Nothing makes up for displacement. Plain and Simple.

Except for pro grade saws. Now I have run a 291 with a big hole in the muffler, I don't know if it was ported too, I want to say no, and it was my go to saw at that tree co with how fast it would blow through wood with a 20". But stock, they suck.

I vote 20", and go ahead and try just one carbide chain and see how you like it, but it will need to go to someone with a special grinder to sharpen it.

 

[Cooper264]

Except for pro grade saws. Now I have run a 291 with a big hole in the muffler, I don't know if it was ported too, I want to say no, and it was my go to saw at that tree co with how fast it would blow through wood with a 20". But stock, they suck.

I vote 20", and go ahead and try just one carbide chain and see how you like it, but it will need to go to someone with a special grinder to sharpen it.

Thats where I was going with the whole 652 shpeal. Its a pro grade saw, and husky recommends up to a 24", but it simply does not perform like a larger saw does. It does great in my book for the weight. Just a good bit slower than a 70cc+ saw. If I bought that saw expecting it to do all my 24"+ cutting, I would have been very disappointed, as where expecting it to do all my 24" and down cutting I was very happy.
291 is a Great Saw, but don't expect it to go out and do anything big.
And just a second warning. I just checked on ebay and a stihl brand carbide chain for a 20" is around $60 (and you likely won't be able to get it sharpened)
I would speculate that you would be much happier buying 3 normal 20" chains and experimenting with sharpening them and having extras around if you break one or dull one in the woods and dont feel like sharpening one.

My boss bought us a few carbide chains once because we often work on old mine sites clearing brush. Our guys per normal end up with the bars in the dirt and rocks and end up chipping off the teeth or quickly dulling these chains. And then they get tossed over the hill because noone can sharpen them. With normal chains, we can sharpen them in the woods on the job ourselves without any special equipment or cost and continue our work day

 

[Absolution]

Just alittle side note they can be sharpened with a diamond dremel burr. - be warned if you make too much of a hollow grind it will just chip again
(Brand and design dependent)
Or depending on bench sharpener (to achieve the desired angle) a diamond wheel is all that's required.

Yes they cut slower, they also run hotter on the bar so be sure your saw likes to oil well.

I keep a carbide chain on hand in case I find something in a tree. But it is far from indestructible sometimes it comes back with missing teeth and I'll just let it go until they are completely hosed. Pretty much only good for fences, concrete and small nails.
(A rock will still rock a carbide chain in no time)

Which brings me to my next part. They aren't cheap. Even the "cheap carbides" aren't cheap comparatively speaking. The only time they are cheap is when you know your about to trash 10 standard loops trying to make a cut after you are already committed to it.

If you are just worried about nasty stuff like sand or muck imbedded in the bark and plan on keeping it 3/8 pitch then run semi chisel or just keep a file on hand to do touch ups.

 

[Cooper264]

Just alittle side note they can be sharpened with a diamond dremel burr. - be warned if you make too much of a hollow grind it will just chip again. (Brand and design dependent)

Yes they cut slower, they also run hotter on the bar so be sure your saw likes to oil well.

I keep a carbide chain on hand in case I find something in a tree. But it is far from indestructible sometimes it comes back with missing teeth and I'll just let it go until they are completely hosed. Pretty much only good for fences, concrete and small nails.
(A rock will still rock a carbide chain in no time)

Which brings me to my next part. They aren't cheap. Even the "cheap carbides" aren't cheap comparatively speaking. The only time they are cheap is when you know your about to trash 10 standard loops trying to make a cut after you are already committed to it.

If you are just worried about nasty stuff like sand or muck imbedded in the bark and plan on keeping it 3/8 pitch then run semi chisel or just keep a file on hand to do touch ups.

I didn't know that they were slower and hotter. Thats a very good point

 

[Absolution]

I didn't know that they were slower and hotter. Thats a very good point

Because they don't have a particularly sharp angle they just kinda maul their way through. It's not as bad as a dull chain but not as good as a sharpened one.

The quickest cutting one I had was stihl's
Then a few maya brand then last and most recent speer from some ebay store in germany.

Maya brand has hit or miss reputation and looks like speer aswell.

My main thing was the maya and speer were 1/3 of the cost and if I'm putting it in harm's way knowing it may get trashed just as the stihl's would then why pay more.

I also don't see the return value if you rock a stihl chain. Teeth can still be flung from it like the other two brands making the sharpening debate useless.

However it did cut faster and did seem to be slightly more durable. In my situation it didn't make much sense to keep paying the higher price.

To op.
Since moving down south to the sand environment I joined the cult of 404 and so far my life has been happier with it compared to 3/8. So maybe look into that I know your power head is smaller but it's the only other alternative o can think of.

 

[Chainsaw Addict]

Retired firefighter. Used "Bullet" carbide on Cutters Edge saws for ventilation. The powerhead large cc Jonsered. Maint shop made up chains. After used on scene, downgraded those loops for training until shot. Never sharpened.
Also used Partner K rotary saws w several blades, wood, metal, concrete.

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[ElevatorGuy]

I picked up one of the new husky 562xp's about a year and a half ago and was absolutely blown away by its performance with a 20" bar. I instantly went to ebay, got a full wrap west coast kit and a 24' bar and slapped er on.

Damn, Them 60cc husky’s will run a 24’ bar?!

 

[Cooper264]

Damn, Them 60cc husky’s will run a 24’ bar?!

hell yea. Runs it almost like a 460 will. I was shocked. But like i said, shes getting a 20" next time i get her out

 

[ElevatorGuy]

hell yea. Runs it almost like a 460 will. I was shocked. But like i said, shes getting a 20" next time i get her out

24’!? Lol

 

[ayoungtexan]

For running a 24, you're gonna want a 60cc or bigger (like others have mentioned). My 461 runs a 24 along with my 371. A 291 isn't fit for a 24. If you wanna run a 24 on a 55cc saw, use skip chain. Carbide chains are a PITA to sharpen and are only worth it if you cut wood with a ton of dirt. I'd recommend a good semi-chisel chain for your wood