Best penetrating oil

[av8or3]

Here’s my vote. Recently received a saw where the clutch drum was stuck hard to the crank. You never seen that right? Well, one tiny squirt of this stuff and it released completely, instantly. Slid right off. Good *s-worde!

 

[USMC615]

Yep…great stuff. Makes WD-40, PB Blaster and some other penetrants in some situations look like all you did was spray something down with water, expecting it to free up or come apart.

 

[Wolverine]

 

[Wood Doctor]

I use Liquid Wrench and WD-40. Both work rather well. Acetone will actually dissolve dried paint and you can use it to save brushes that are hard as nails. Some hardware stores won't even stock it.

 

[timg]

Here’s my vote. Recently received a saw where the clutch drum was stuck hard to the crank. You never seen that right? Well, one tiny squirt of this stuff and it released completely, instantly. Slid right off. Good *s-worde!View attachment 329837

Well Jim if it meets your approval from the aeronautical world I'm in for trying it. As all the other stuff above mentioned has limited results in my world. Couple questions if you can answer below:
Any effect on plastics and paint? According to the MSDS sheet some rubbers can be affected.
Highly flammable so have to use caution with heat eh?
Thanks for the info on this subject.

 

[Stem]

for really stuck stuff I use a 50/50 acetone & ATF mix. otherwise PB blaster or WD-40.

 

[Homemade]

for really stuck stuff I use a 50/50 acetone & ATF mix. otherwise PB blaster or WD-40.

Same


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[Woodslasher]

I typically use B'laster for stuck stuff (but I'll use whatever I find handy) and WD-40 for stiff stuff that needs lube more than it needs to be un-stuck. B'laster has freed up hundreds of nuts and bolts on the undercarriage of trucks my brother has enlisted my help on so while it may not be the absolute best it works good enough for me.

 

[av8or3]

Well Jim if it meets your approval from the aeronautical world I'm in for trying it. As all the other stuff above mentioned has limited results in my world. Couple questions if you can answer below:
Any effect on plastics and paint? According to the MSDS sheet some rubbers can be affected.
Highly flammable so have to use caution with heat eh?
Thanks for the info on this subject.

Sure. It is extremely flammable but the little I’ve used with heat (heat can be your friend) worked fine. It just boils off really hot metal but it still gets in , if you know what I mean. I can believe it would soften plastics but it doesn’t seem to affect the paint on planes and saws. But I always wipe up what I don’t need. The biggest problem I have with it is that it will dry your hands out. Or something, it wrecks mine so I always use gloves. I wear gloves all the time anyway. It is an incredible penetrating oil. I also use it to condem exhaust systems. If I see rust on the outside of a tailpipe I have to verify the the pipe is sound and I do it by squirting some of this stuff up into the pipe. If it doesn’t bleed thru the pipe pass. If it does, pipes have to be ordered. Here’s a pic of a “fail” . Actually two.

 

[northwest saws]

I pretty much use Kroil for everything nowadays.

 

[jacob j.]

for really stuck stuff I use a 50/50 acetone & ATF mix. otherwise PB blaster or WD-40.

An Arboristsite member recommended that years ago for rusty chains. That's what I've been using ever since. It really works great on chains that have been left outside.

 

[Wood Doctor]

An Arboristsite member recommended that years ago for rusty chains. That's what I've been using ever since. It really works great on chains that have been left outside.

An ordinary overnight vinegar soak also works well for chains left outside to rust. Then I paint the loop with some diesel fuel or simply mixed fuel. This 2-stage process seems to work very will.

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

I pretty much use Kroil for everything nowadays.View attachment 329877

Love the smell of that stuff, with PB being close 2nd.

 

[timg]

Sure. It is extremely flammable but the little I’ve used with heat (heat can be your friend) worked fine. It just boils off really hot metal but it still gets in , if you know what I mean. I can believe it would soften plastics but it doesn’t seem to affect the paint on planes and saws. But I always wipe up what I don’t need. The biggest problem I have with it is that it will dry your hands out. Or something, it wrecks mine so I always use gloves. I wear gloves all the time anyway. It is an incredible penetrating oil. I also use it to condem exhaust systems. If I see rust on the outside of a tailpipe I have to verify the the pipe is sound and I do it by squirting some of this stuff up into the pipe. If it doesn’t bleed thru the pipe pass. If it does, pipes have to be ordered. Here’s a pic of a “fail” . Actually two. View attachment 329875View attachment 329876

Again, Thanks for your response Jim. I appreciate you taking the time and posting pics. I just ordered a qt for about $25. Pretty reasonably priced. Couldn't find an aerosol can version. I will say too the new cans of PB Blaster with the swing up straw and adjustable flow rate is tits!! Maybe I'll come back here in a couple of weeks with some input.

 

[av8or3]

Love the smell of that stuff, with PB being close 2nd.

You’re not supposed to huff it

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

You’re not supposed to huff it

I wear it as cologne.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

I use anything free or cheap
If i spend money and buy some i get Honey Goo
I have never seen Mouse Milk,if i do i will try it.I have a couple stubborn seized saws that have so far laughed at everything.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I use Deep Creep from Seafoam on alot of stuff now because it stays put for weeks . If I hose down a nut or bolt with it and give it time to work it'll be still moist with lubricant, so also a good storage oil.
I might try this MM for some stuck piston rings though.

 

[deye223]

for really stuck stuff I use a 50/50 acetone & ATF mix. otherwise PB blaster or WD-40.

This

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Kroil if I’m buying it, Hilco lube if I’m getting it from work.