After new part installation machine will not start

[arthur hoffmann]

On my Craftsman with a Briggs & Stratton motor which the part number is 31C707. The customer called and said that the motor would not start and then acted like a dead battery I went and looked at it I had to pull the flywheel off because of the noise I heard when I took the flywheel off half of the magnets were gone and the stator was bent in half I ordered a brand new stator and flywheel I made sure the stator was exactly the same everything is in time all the valves I tried to stator in four separate positions because of the way the screws are you can rotate it four times but I cannot get the engine to start it will turn over but it acts like it has no spark but it does and it acts like it has no fuel but it does because when I take the spark plug out there is fuel dripping off of the spark plugs so I am kind of at a loss and by the way I did run a compression test and it leak down test and we were 90 pounds 4/20 minutes somebody please help

 

[Fish]

I would suggest that you re-check the flywheel key, it may now be sheared.

It happens if the flywheel nut is not torqued enough when re-assembled.

 

[arthur hoffmann]

I removed and reinstalled a new key 4 time because I rotated the stator to all 4 possible positions it could bolt in just as a check... kinda like the old distributor caps

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[arthur hoffmann]

I have been working on this issue for 12 hours I could use any suggestions

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[Fish]

OK, take off the valve cover and look at your push-rods etc..
Leave it off and remove the plug, then watch while you turn the flywheel.

 

[arthur hoffmann]

OK, take off the valve cover and look at your push-rods etc..
Leave it off and remove the plug, then watch while you turn the flywheel.

I have already done that to set my Val I had to have the spark plug out also when trying to start the engine I had the valve cover off so I know the rocker arms valves and pushrods are all working correctly and I do have 90 pounds of compression

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[Fish]

How did you do the leakdown test?
Did you watch the movement of the pushrod/rockers to make sure that they opened @ the same amount?

 

[arthur hoffmann]

No on the leak down test I put the compression tester where are the spark plug goes and spun the engine up to 90 Pounds which was as high as it would go and left it for 15 to 20 minutes and checked it again with no change I cannot tell you what position the valves were in as far as I know both valves are never opened at the same time

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[arthur hoffmann]

How can you tell if the pushrods are opening the same amount would you use a micrometer?

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[arthur hoffmann]

When the original stator under the flywheel was damaged and I mean it got all the most Twisted in half could that have shorted out any other electrical devices that is preventing it from starting as I say it does turn over it just never starts I can put my hand on the fuel solenoid and feel it clicking that's about the only thing I know that would stop the fuel

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[Fish]

How can you tell if the pushrods are opening the same amount would you use a micrometer?

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Just watch them, and roughly measure and make sure that one of the lobes is not badly worn.

 

[Fish]

If the fuel is dripping off the plugs, then you may be just badly flooded.
Drain the tank and carb, then crank until you get it to hit.

 

[arthur hoffmann]

I am going to head over there tomorrow I am going to bring some other parts with me and see what happens. A friend of mine told me that the stator position on the 4 screws meaning when you rotate it is supposed to act like the old distributor caps you turn the distributor cap would Advance or retard the timing does that happen with a stator?

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[Fish]

No, the "stator" is just an alternator that recharges the battery, since yours isn't a full ring, you must not have anything that drains the battery, other than the fuel solenoid.
It has nothing to do with the engine running, it should run/start with out it.
You need to drain/dry it out, and step back and determine where your problem lies.
I think it may just be badly flooded, if all that you have said is true.

 

[arthur hoffmann]

No, the "stator" is just an alternator that recharges the battery, since yours isn't a full ring, you must not have anything that drains the battery, other than the fuel solenoid.
It has nothing to do with the engine running, it should run/start with out it.
You need to drain/dry it out, and step back and determine where your problem lies.
I think it may just be badly flooded, if all that you have said is true.

Well according to the model number in the book there are three different Staters that can be used depending on the date code two of them had a one wire system and one of them and a two wire system the one that came off of the machine was a two wire System complete ring as a matter of fact the other two options in the parts manual were complete Rings also but like you said it makes no difference in the engine starting or not

I have been a small engine mechanic for many years and you can usually determine where I have to go as far as which system I have to work on or inspect fairly quick you either spray fuel in the open carburetor Port but taking the carburetor off pull start it and it should run for three or four seconds you have a fuel flow problem, if it does not be checked for spark electrical so on and so forth but this one has got me baffled I have done all of that I'm just wondering with the stator connected and the condition it was in which was literally folded in half it broke off these seats where the stator screws onto and I had to 2 part epoxy them back in position but could that have shorted out one of my safety switches or something similar that is just a question I am throwing up there

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[Fish]

Well, unplugging the kill wire should eliminate the safety switches.
You just need to step back and look at it like a big pushmower.
With no kill wire to the coil, you should get spark when the flywheel revolves.
Timing is dependant on the flywheel key.

Have you drained all of the fuel and cranked/dried the plugs out?

Do that and start with the basics.

 

[AVB]

Second post #16.

Also make sure no voltage is ever applied the coil's kill terminal. Either way if no after removing the kill and using a known good plug and you have no spark then the coil is bad; unless, the trigger magnets on the flywheel may not magnetized. You should feel a strong pull if they are good.

 

[arthur hoffmann]

Second post #16.

Also make sure no voltage is ever applied the coil's kill terminal. Either way if no after removing the kill and using a known good plug and you have no spark then the coil is bad; unless, the trigger magnets on the flywheel may not magnetized. You should feel a strong pull if they are good.

Well my determination for the magnet on the flywheel being strong enough on any machine including this one I put a screwdriver cross the magnet and if the flywheel can hold itself to the screwdriver then it is strong enough is it possible that I just have a weak spark because I do have a spark I have two types of testers the one with a line in it which does light up and I have another one that you can set the gap and then try it and see if it jumps a small or a large gap but I know I have good spark plugs because I brought them from my house freshly out of the carton.
By the way I have disconnected the kill wire from the coil and there was no change like I've told you before many times it truly sounds like it has no spark plug in it and it's not getting fuel when I am trying to start it I was reading something earlier about a compression release valve on the Briggs & Stratton at one point it was out of time and when I turned it by hand I could hear that pressure relief valve working now if it is working incorrectly would that give me the issues I am running into also keep in mind this machine is a Craftsman that is 7 to 10 years old that might be the whole problem that it it is a Craftsman LOL

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[arthur hoffmann]

Well my determination for the magnet on the flywheel being strong enough on any machine including this one I put a screwdriver cross the magnet and if the flywheel can hold itself to the screwdriver then it is strong enough is it possible that I just have a weak spark because I do have a spark I have two types of testers the one with a line in it which does light up and I have another one that you can set the gap and then try it and see if it jumps a small or a large gap but I know I have good spark plugs because I brought them from my house freshly out of the carton.
By the way I have disconnected the kill wire from the coil and there was no change like I've told you before many times it truly sounds like it has no spark plug in it and it's not getting fuel when I am trying to start it I was reading something earlier about a compression release valve on the Briggs & Stratton at one point it was out of time and when I turned it by hand I could hear that pressure relief valve working now if it is working incorrectly would that give me the issues I am running into also keep in mind this machine is a Craftsman that is 7 to 10 years old that might be the whole problem that it it is a Craftsman LOL

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One more question you mentioned to make sure that was no voltage on the stator kill wire which one would that be I have one wire with a diode close to the end and another one that is just a wire

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[Fish]

Take off the valve cover and watch the rocker arms while you turn the flywheel by hand.