Found a top on Dukes, need cylTrying to fix my friend's run-over 390. We need a good cylinder and a top cover.
Dang…20 lookers and zip, lol
Those are available for $310 from 3 different sourcesI’m assuming you want a used cylinder? I have NIB OEM p&c if you get desperate.
I got one from before the price hikes. If you strike out finding a used one, shoot me a pm. FWIW, the Duke’s chrome 390 p&c is pretty nice. I think it would have run great out of the box, but I couldn’t help myself.Those are available for $310 from 3 different sources
The piston is fine, just need a good used cyl…have rings.
I was wondering about the Duke's kit. How do you think it compares to the Meteor?I got one from before the price hikes. If you strike out finding a used one, shoot me a pm. FWIW, the Duke’s chrome 390 p&c is pretty nice. I think it would have run great out of the box, but I couldn’t help myself.
I haven’t put enough hours on the Duke’s kit to know how long it will last. The timing numbers on the Duke’s jug are good…maybe a little better than stock. You can also port the Duke’s cylinder without plating lifting from the cylinder wall. The meteor is more expensive, and will likely lose plating after a while.I was wondering about the Duke's kit. How do you think it compares to the Meteor?
Leave the gasket out and run the 0.019” squish with the Duke’s piston.Wound up with Duke's chrome kit.
I cleaned up the casting goober and opened up the exhaust a tad then polished the exhaust port.
Interesting thing...
The piston in the kit is a tad shorter than the oe. If I use the oe piston I can't do a BGD as it is only .012 squish. Throw in the Duke's piston and I get a .019 with no gasket.
Hmm...
019 or .028?
Kinda where I was leaning. If I had a lathe...and the skills, it would be easy to make the oe piston work.Leave the gasket out and run the 0.019” squish with the Duke’s piston.