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3120 max bar length milling?

walkdog

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I have a cannon 60” in .404 that I use on occasion. Aux oiler is absolutely necessary over 42”, IMO. Longer might be possible with 3/8 chain, but would dull much faster and would likely cut wiggly as fook.

The 60” mill is unwieldy to say the least, and I tend to get a lot of wonk at the beginning and end of slabbing cuts with it unless I use the rails (aluminum extension ladder) on every cut.
 

Wolverine

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My 394 pulled a 50" before being ported through maple with ease. I did auxiliary oil it though. 42 is about it for that saw IMO. I'd think you could run whatever length you can buy with the extra oil with your 3120.
 

davidwyby

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Last weekend I was in the mountains noticing all the big oak stumps/chunks left because most people don’t have a big enough saw. I have a 42” but could use more. This one is 60” as I recall.ED8333C2-2E4A-45D0-BA79-68C962D042C3.jpeg

@blackbruin offered me a deal on a 52”…but I wonder if I shouldn’t hold out for 60”.
 

Woodslasher

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I think you need a double-ended 84 inch Cannon milling bar to run your two 3120's on.
 

davidwyby

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I think you need a double-ended 84 inch Cannon milling bar to run your two 3120's on.
Yeah

but one guy will be upside down (talking more bucking firewood now)

we have so much dead oak from beetles the market is flooded with lumber and it’s not popular. Although slab tables…
 

davidwyby

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I have a cannon 60” in .404 that I use on occasion. Aux oiler is absolutely necessary over 42”, IMO. Longer might be possible with 3/8 chain, but would dull much faster and would likely cut wiggly as fook.

The 60” mill is unwieldy to say the least, and I tend to get a lot of wonk at the beginning and end of slabbing cuts with it unless I use the rails (aluminum extension ladder) on every cut.
So…I’m gonna try milling some 40” dia dry hard euc. You think 404 semi chisel full comp?
 
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BlackCoffin

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Get your 3120 ported and run a 72” bar with an aux oiler. My ms880 runs one fine with skip tooth .404 semi chisel chain. It’s not a fast process but when you get into wood that big nothing is fast or easy about it. Ideally I would get into a 84” with a power head. You loose more bar with two power heads so I’d still be gaining a little over the 72” and more power is always better. I would run a full comp chain with that setup.
 

davidwyby

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Get your 3120 ported and run a 72” bar with an aux oiler. My ms880 runs one fine with skip tooth .404 semi chisel chain. It’s not a fast process but when you get into wood that big nothing is fast or easy about it. Ideally I would get into a 84” with a power head. You loose more bar with two power heads so I’d still be gaining a little over the 72” and more power is always better. I would run a full comp chain with that setup.
It is ported and I have a 60” now.
 

walkdog

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So…I’m gonna try milling some 40” dia dry hard euc. You think 404 semi chisel full comp?

That sounds like a horrible thing to do to me, but the heart wants what the heart wants. I suppose chainsaws are consumables in the grand scheme of things. If I had to do it I wouldn’t worry about the type of chain, just go slow, monitor sharpness carefully, and have enough sharp spares to swap every cut, perhaps even twice per cut to keep the saw from bbq-ing itself.

But why not spare yourself the misery, or at least reserve it for green stuff up in the mountains, and buy a cheap bandsaw? Or use your fabrication/machining resources and put together a nice electric one?
 

davidwyby

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@walkdog I haven’t actually tried it yet…ported 3120 seems like it would handle it. I have noodled it a bit, noodles relatively easily….maybe I will try doing it that way.

or yeah build the big band saw…


On another note, I saw there is a GTG in April up your way on AS. Ever been?
 

walkdog

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Sounds kinda fun, but I’ve not been. I’m sure there would be something to learn as well, I just have too many interests and projects for three lifetimes…

Re: milling eucalyptus, I‘ve done a bit of green Red Ironbark and River Red Gum, and they get considerably hard as time progresses, even just sitting in the shade slathered in anchorseal waiting to be cut. Also, I have found that starting with a cut through the pith, provided you have the depth capacity to get there, seems to help taking the tension out of them. Not sure that holds true for logs at the state of crispiness we’re talking about here, but perhaps worth considering.

Definitely build the big electric bandsaw. You have the site, the forklift(s), the big power connection, and the skills/tools/resources to get it done much easier than most. Mod the Matt Cremona design with a bit of professional flair. Would definitely pay for itself if you wanted it to. Would also make a great excuse to go shopping for a nice flatbed with a palfinger knuckle boom
 

davidwyby

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One upside to the crispiness is they can go straight from the mill to finished tables. Wood cracks and warps tremendously drying in this climate and I don’t have much of a way to combat it.
 
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