1/4 .043 or 3/8 .043 for echo 2511?

[treefeller24]

Hey guys new to this site, tried posting on arboristsite but didn't get any response so hoping some of you guys can help me out. I'm wanting to change my bar and chain on my 2511 t and trying to figure out if I should go with 1/4 or just stay with 3/8 and step it down to .043? Would like to stay at a 14-in bar. From what I understand 1/4 chains cut really well but don't last long so that why I was thinking I might go down to 3/8 .043. Also I have seen the 1/4 panther conversion kits on monkey Beaver and also kits on rip saw but rip saw only has a 12-in kit. Wouldn't mind trying panther but being that their stuff is not always readily available I would like to convert to Stihl If possible. Some of the older threads I have read say that you have to modify the Stihl bar by drilling additional holes in it so I was just wondering if they have come up with a better solution yet? So 1/4 conversion kit or stay 3/8 and step down to .043 from .050? If anybody has any part numbers that would be great. My 2511 would be used mostly for limbing but it would be nice to be able to do some small spar work with it as well. Thanks for any help

 

[calcutta250]

Most people really like the 1/4 conversion. The teeth are closer so it’s a smoother cut. I’ve never personally used 1/4 chain, but I’ve been considering it mainly for smaller work in the yard.

 

[treefeller24]

Yes I'm thinking I might go 1/4 just was hoping for some feedback on what 1/4 setup you guys are using. Also found a echo/ Oregon 3/8 .043 bar and chain matching setup for a 2511 on eBay for only $50 so I was considering that route also

 

[calcutta250]

Hopefully more people will chime in soon.

Out of stock but they are using a Stihl bar.
https://www.sawagain.com/12-1-4-pitch-bar-chain-clutch-drum-kit-fits-echo-cs-2511t-cs-2511p/

 

[calcutta250]

You might try posting this in the Just Chains forum.

 

[treefeller24]

That's the funny thing , I can't even find my thread when I go to the chainsaw forum, I don't know which sub forum it is in so I just keep checking my notifications to see if someone posts. When I posted the thread I just clicked on chainsaws and then started the thread but not sure which sub form it put me in

 

[Stump Shot]

3/8" LP for this guy. That is of course if my rear handle 2511 counts. The 1/4" cutters are pretty tiny, so unless a person is doing a lot of real small limbs only, the 3/8" LP will do better in the tops and small diameter tree trunks.

 

[calcutta250]

That's the funny thing , I can't even find my thread when I go to the chainsaw forum, I don't know which sub forum it is in so I just keep checking my notifications to see if someone posts. When I posted the thread I just clicked on chainsaws and then started the thread but not sure which sub form it put me in

Hamburger menu in the upper left hand corner, drop down forums, there should be a choice “Your Threads.” Hopefully that is correct. Lol.

 

[treefeller24]

Yes I found that but it just tells me that the thread is posted under chainsaws. Even if something was just posted on my thread 30 seconds ago I can't find it in any of the chainsaw subforms. You would think it would be at the top of the list on one of them but not sure. Maybe I am just a couple french fries short of a Happy meal tonight I don't know

 

[5155]

Don't feel like the lone ranger. When I first came here they were constantly moving my stuff.
In the chainsaw forum the top ones are special, keep scrolling down you'll see the place for regular stuff.
I use the mew posts button a lot but then end up replying to stuff in subforums I know nothing about lol.
They are pretty cool though and not everyone has decades experience with this stuff.

 

[Ketchup]

I like 1/4” .043 14” as an all-rounder. Works well for everything from fine pruning to small removals. The advantages are smoothness and control, and the smaller bar tip.

3/8lp .043 will be faster in the cut and easier to sharpen. If I only did removals that is what I would run.

1/4”x14” bars are not that abundant. The 1/4” sprockets are available as aftermarket and there is even cheap chain. You can run a modified Stihl bar (just drill new holes for the tensioner and stretch the old tensioner hole towards the oil output slot). Or you can get an Oregon with a wider nose (not for me, I want the small sprocket tip). Or you can hunt down a Panther. Or you can go with a cheap chinese “Archer” bar (those wear out faster). I like the Woodland Pro bars on ebay, but they’re out of 14”.

 

[treefeller24]

Turns out I use Stihl chain 61 pmm3 on my 194's so I think I will try the 3/8 .043 first. Also I use the 3/8 .043 50 link bar on my 194's so I have some extras. The steel bar part number that was posted on another thread is 3005 000 3909 but my bar part number is 3005 008 3909, both are 50 link 3/8 .043 but for the life of me I can't figure out what the difference is between the two bars. Being that they are both 50 link .043 I'm hoping that the bar I have should work. If anybody thinks this will not work please let me know, thank you

 

[Outback]

One of my early saws was one of those poulan x-rated top handles xxl or xxxl, there might have been a v in there too. It had a little 12" ish bar and 1/4 on it. I actually really liked it, didn't know a thing about chainsaws and it cut smooth and didn't scare me often. Other than the durability on a more powerful saw, I see no issues. You'll only know for sure if you like it by trying some. Might dull faster, but if you don't dip your dick in the dirt and cut clean wood I don't see how it could. NK teeth all look the same to me other than length, the pitch seems more like whether you want mini comp, mini semi, or mini skip. I've got one little saw with this weird mini full skip safety chain in whatever little stihls run 1/4.325/ 3/8lp. Must have made marketing cents at some time.

Just looked on the stihl site and it says they do picco in 1/4 and 3/8lp, maybe your bar numbers are for different pitch sprocket noses? Wish I could help more, I don't mess with the little ones too much.

 

[calcutta250]

Turns out I use Stihl chain 61 pmm3 on my 194's so I think I will try the 3/8 .043 first. Also I use the 3/8 .043 50 link bar on my 194's so I have some extras. The steel bar part number that was posted on another thread is 3005 000 3909 but my bar part number is 3005 008 3909, both are 50 link 3/8 .043 but for the life of me I can't figure out what the difference is between the two bars. Being that they are both 50 link .043 I'm hoping that the bar I have should work. If anybody thinks this will not work please let me know, thank you

I did some looking around and someone said 000 was made in Germany and 008 was made is USA. I did notice one chart said XXX could be either 000 or 008 for certain guide bars.

 

[treefeller24]

Thanks Calcutta, I was able to modify my bar yesterday and it seems to work awesome. Only difference is I did not have to elongate the original tensioner pinholes on my bar I just had to drill two extra holes about a half inch away from the originals. That sucker is spitting oil off the tip so it is getting plenty of oil. Made a couple test cuts on some firewood I had laying around and it cuts much better than the original chain that came on the 2511. Still a tiny bit of chatter on the chain but it is miles better than what the saw came with

 

[Scotty Overkill]

I prefer the 1/4-.043 and have modified Stihl 14" setups on both of my 2511T's. Thinner kerf, closer cutters, the saws are like filet knives up in the tree, even in hardwood. Smooth and fast.

Yea, it can be a PITA to sharpen (I use files), but being they rarely are used other than up in the tree, they don't need sharpened too often.

 

[Jake Dykstra]

I really like the .325 043 smooth and lite. Dukes has full chisel but currently out of stock. Have even modified a bar to put it on my 372 with a 9 pin for a stress test. It streches but haven't broke it...yet.
That was oregon nano semi chisel

 

[Hundred Acre Wood]

I really like the .325 043 smooth and lite. Dukes has full chisel but currently out of stock. Have even modified a bar to put it on my 372 with a 9 pin for a stress test. It streches but haven't broke it...yet.
That was oregon nano semi chisel

Do you know of a .325 sprocket for a 2511? Apparently Oregon doesn't offer a speedcut nano conversion kit for it.

Echo 2511t.. Thoughts?

I'm in north Baltimore County. 83 corridor.

opeforum.com

 

[calcutta250]

Do you know of a .325 sprocket for a 2511? Apparently Oregon doesn't offer a speedcut nano conversion kit for it.

Echo 2511t.. Thoughts?

I'm in north Baltimore County. 83 corridor.

opeforum.com

I’m definitely not an expert. But .325 sounds odd. It is usually a larger cutter than 3/8Lp and 1/4”. There is a .325 LP I’m pretty sure, but I’d go to one of the more common ones preferably 1/4 .043.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

I run a panther 16” kit from monkeybeaver on a ported Echo 355T, not the smaller 2511.

Pros? The biggest one is ditching Echo’s chain. I’ve had a 36” 80cc Echo 800P, the 355T, and run a stock 2511. ECHO chain is chattering garbage. I’d consider Archer a huge upgrade, and that’s saying something.

The best thing about a 1/4 pitch bar and chain on such a light saw is the balance. It’s less tip heavy on a 16” panther kit than the factory 12” 3/8LP bar.

1/4 chain is fine like jewelry. If you routinely get pinched and rip the saw out, it’s not for you. You need to work like a surgeon, not a caveman.

It cuts smooth and fast, but it’s a *b-word to sharpen because it’s simply tough to see such a small cutter. I do it more by knowing the angles and feel than what I’m seeing.