I'm having some issues with my (early) 7900 leaking bar oil from the lines at the elbow, plastic thingy again.
I remember packing a O ring up against it years ago to hold pressure to stop it leaking but it's causing trouble again now so I better fix it properly
If I order part no. 038 245...
That will cut OK. You can adjust things to suit the power and wood type you are cutting. A cutter like that will allow a little more depth gauge if you want a bit more cut speed and it will hold an edge well
I was replacing the clutch springs on a Ms250 and it dawned on me they are the same clutch and drum. Then I spent a few weeks wondering if the 170 could do it
I can't think of any practical reasons to do this other than I could. 3/8 6 is extremely close to a 325 7 in terms of chain speed so it...
I had a dumb idea that actually worked for once
56DL, .325, 063 setup on a MS170. Took a little bit of messing around to make it work but its better than I expected
This is the most common thing I see these days. People have heard get the gullet, they dig in deep, miss everything that matters and end up with a chain that doesn't cut.
File height control is the most critical part of all this and is the hardest bit to control. It takes time and practice to...
I have broken off plenty when they are at the end of life but this.... How the hell did they do this
Good thing this chain is 1 link to long to suit my bar. I know which one is getting removed
There used to be a really good Oregon tool that looked like a big wedge. You put the right thickness part into the groove and the outer part would close the rails in when you hit down on it.
Wish I had one but the hammer and gauges works well enough for me
I put the feeler gauges needed into the bar groove then use a hammer and a flat surface to close them.
Go slightly thinner than required for the feeler gauges that you put in the groove. For 050 use 048 or so. It allows the metal to bend in a bit and come back out when it's hit.
Yes it's rough...
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