Recent content by PA Dan

What he said!👆

I do. Once you have done a couple the effort isnt much. If you do it and the saw doesn't like it you can always move it back to stock. Only saw i found that doesn't like it is a MS361.

Yes a cylinder with caps is probably a 359 cylinder.

I also love Chocolate chip cookies but hate the half baked soft ones. It has to have some crunch.

A few years back i had thoughts of getting a 500i. @huskihl brought one to the PA GTG for another PA guy. I asked if I could run it? The log was about 30" dead Ash. The saw was wearing a 28" light bar. After the cut i shut the saw down and walked over to Kevin. I asked can you make me one...

My 661 has the captive nuts.

I did a 390 kit on a 310 a while back. On the flywheel after you file the key install and start the nut. You should be able to rotate the flywheel from stock to the advanced position. When advanced I tap the flywheel and tighten the nut.

The logest log so far was around 8'. Didnt see any sag in it. Boards are flat.

I had these cut from 1/4" thick steel plate and have 2" square tube that goes in the slots. Have two 11' and two 6' for different size logs.

Show off! Nice work man!

SKF, NGK, Natchi, Timken or bought from Stihl or Husqvarna. Not necessarily in that order. Seals are always oem.

If it's cast onto the flywheel use a small square needle file. I mark the key with a black marker so I can see how much im taking off. I also go 1/3 on the cast keys.

I have used card stock, beer can and FelPro .015 gasket material to lower jugs. Measure stock squish and find material to drop it in the .020 range. I usually take .020 off the key for timing advances.

I also use Anchorseal for my slab ends as well as my blanks for my lathe. A larger log would be best if you're looking for 16" slabs for the bench. Avoid the pith.

Damn i was 20 minutes late