Recent content by GMB74

I agree with everything Hacskaroly has posted above. You also must determine WHY this engine melted down and correct it or your repaired engine will do the same thing. A pressure/vacuum test before the teardown will help you determine the cause. Then it can be corrected during your repairs...

This is JD's smallest base-line riding mower. Really meant for small back yards less than an acre. That said it is a rugged little beast and can serve you well if you take care of it and don't beat it to death. When a problem arises, fix it. Don't ignore it and keep going. All the above...

Older cans with straight gas (Moto4) had a very similar label to the premix cans (Motomix) but had a red cap. Very easy to mix them up. According to your photo you have 2 cans of motomix (premix). Looks like they changed the packaging again.

Edited. My bad, misunderstood the application the OP was using the grease for.

Thanks for reporting this. The current wisdom has been to not trust the AM clips, use OEM. I have noticed a big difference in the diameter of the circlip wire and piston groove between OEM and AM sets on some saws. Often the AM wire/groove is larger than the OEM. This would allow the OEM clip to...

I have some old wrenches and sockets that are stamped "made in USA" and some newer ones (still pretty old) that say "made in Japan". It's not surprising to see them coming from Taiwan. That's a little better than mainland China.

There should be a diagram cast into the plastic frame of the saw showing the proper orientation of the pump. Check the holes inside the saw housing to get the correct depth of the pump. Too shallow or too deep, the passage holes don't line up and the pump doesn't work.

A 1/4 x 3/8 set screw from the hardware store can be substituted, but since it is larger in diameter you should tap the hole first to prevent cracking the plastic case.

That's kind of an odd one, with the gas tank and shroud in one piece. All the Quantum engines I have seen have a separate tank and shroud setup, very common on lawnmowers. Can you retrofit the separate tank and shroud on your engine? Check out part number 699374. I pick up complete lawnmowers...

I give this guy high marks for ingenuity. Using welding wire to check squish is not something I had ever thought of. I'm not keen on sanding/honing crosshatch marks into a chrome cylinder, but that is just me. Using metal as a base for sanding the cylinder sounds a lot more accurate. But is it...

Redneck Machine Shop This popped up on another Chinese Chainsaw board. While I would never advocate using these methods on a "real" (brand name) saw, they might be applicable to these cheaper machines. If it works, great. If not and it blows up, you are not out a lot of money. Buy another one...

Also, check to make sure your bolts are clamping down on the flanges properly. Sometimes the bolt holes are a tad shallow and the bolts bottom out before the flanges are tight on the case/cylinder. Grind a little off the ends of the bolts if needed.

I have no experience with this specific product, but have found that most automotive RTV sealants will not hold up long term when exposed to fuel (gasoline). They work for awhile, but then fail and cause a leak. Dirko is the Stihl OEM sealer and does hold up. I guess you will have to try this...

Let's get back to basics. Have you done a vacuum/pressure test on the engine to determine if you really have a leak? What about fuel starvation? Have you checked the fuel filter and line for kinks, leaks, sucking flat, partially plugged filter, filter not sitting on the bottom of the tank, etc...