Recent content by DillonBuck

Get a progressive raker gauge. The WCS is the best I’ve seen. It gives you depth options. A simple jig that sets the raker for the tooth it controls, based on that tooth. First used it on a well worn chain, immediately noticed how smooth it was. The WCS is stupidly expensive for a business...

Flush with brake clean before cutting so they don’t stick. Blow them out with air the best I can. Then a 1/2 hour in the ultrasonic hot tub. Rinse, dry, scuff paint. PS. Try to paint inside too. Especially if you won’t be running it soon. It’s stripped of oil, it will rust in there.

Dishonest much?

It was a chicken *s-word move. A man decides what he wants to do, then does it. If he screwed himself on a deal, he goes through with it, and acts with honor. I kinda called him out on it, but his pride(if it exists) didn’t kick in! He seemed to think not honoring his deal and going back on his...

The only thing I’ve found better is a belt grinder with ceramic belts. It cuts so well it doesn’t build much heat. Leaves you with little balls of metal everywhere. One of the cheap 4” belt sanders can be fitted with the belts. It won’t last long in hard use, but will hold up to casual use...

You can buy one that is threaded on both ends, it does a pile of the Stihls and is under $20. I can’t imagine why you would want to make that.

I’d superglue. Then roughly scuff the outside. Use any good plastic friendly epoxy in a thin layer, and fiberglass cloth. Several layers of each, a smooth layer of epoxy on the outside to seal it. It’ll seal, and be strong.

I’m 9 miles from Everett, what do you need.

It’s not a drive key, it’s a timing key. It’s not even needed for function, once timing is set. Loosen up the flywheel mark something in line with a vane with it stock, then advance it. Make another mark in line with the same vane. Now go back 1/4 or 1/2 the distance between them. Try it...

Or do as Husky did. A screw flippy cap. The flippy provides the leverage to loosen a tight cap. As long as the gorilla is shark enough to not use it to tighten it as tight as possible

No crap. It doesn’t even have to be fully saturated. But, it’s not the same. A French fry is 100% potato, but it ain’t the same. Have lived in the Rust Belt (by two definitions) for 50 years. I’ve seen the evolution as salt use became more of a thing. As the cars got more resistant. Then...

Kept the stock parts except the carb, and used the impukse line instead of the stupid boot setup. Made a throttle linkage for it. Squish, base……I really like the saw, but wish it had more bottom end. Did a regular one with a big bore, it seems better, but haven’t had time to play with my toys...

Brine is not the same as salt. PADOT says it can sit 3 days being ran over and still be effective. Even after a few light rains. Sorry guys, you ain’t washing that out of the crannies. With the systems the OEMs had in place, 25 years ago we had old cars running around that looked fine. Even...

When you say “cheap”. I think cheap. Not middle. The Zenoah clones of better quality, especially Neotec 6200. No idea how to post video here, wish I could. One with about $80 worth of parts and a days work. I don’t think anybody offers a saw to beat it at the weight class. Certainly not...

how old is your gas? If there is any chance it was summer blend, get fresh. The ability to evaporate in cold temp is the basic difference. Get some mix in a pump oil can. Give it one shot in the carb before trying to start.