Recent content by Canadian farm boy

Twas an experience. Lol

This is actually the second time I ran the saw. The first time I tried testing it the saw would start right up and piss rev great. Sink it in wood and it’d fall on its face and stall. I found out the hard way you have to watch the fuel line where it comes into the carb box. The hose is super...

Went straight out of the box to the bench for some “tweaking”. Less than 1/2 a tank of fuel run through it when I made the vid.

Trial and error. I’ve ported several of these saws and 6* seems to be the sweet spot for how I do them.

Here’s this saw in wood. I had run about a half tank of fuel through it when I did the video.

I know someone is gonna be curious and everybody loves numbers so here’s where I set it I 80 T 120/124 E 102 and widened to %65 of the bore I find most all strato saws like a little shorter BD when compared to other saws. I’m also a fan of keeping the muffler outlet as close to the cylinder as...

I didn’t take many pictures of the reassembly. The clutch drum bearing is bone dry so I gave it a little lube when reassembling

Heat shield and the new muffler gasket both port matched

I also machined a flat spot on the top of the cylinder. Makes it much easier to dial in and hold in place on the lathe. (Plus it gives me a spot to leave my mark)

Heres the ported cylinder all ready to be installed.

For the timing advance I simply put my degree wheel at TDC. I mark the tip of 1 FW fin with a sharpie and mark the case. I then turn the degree wheel 6 degrees and put another mark on the case to line up with the marked FW fin. Remove the FW. Then put the saw back to TDC. I file the FW key...

Here’s that fancy magnesium piston as well as the part numbers for a cylinder base gasket and a muffler gasket

I like to keep the muffler mod simple on these newer stihl saws. I cut away most of the stock outlet deflector. I open the stock outlet up to about the same size as the spark screen. I then bend up my own defector much larger than the stock one and weld it on overtop the remaining stock...

Couple pics of where the cylinder base needs to be clearanced. Final squish clearance came in at .0195”

The sides of the cylinder extension are flat so after cutting the base you have a small ridge left on each side that has to removed. I don’t have any fancy way doing that so I just carefully go at it with a file until the ridge is completely removed. I confirm this with a straight edge...